Jacket or not

[Gernella]

Since the wedding is now on for next year, we've had the card to keep the date free, I've been sort of flitting on what I am wearing.  Last one it was home made jacket and home made dress.  Jacket fine, dress now too big to wear again without some alteration.

So, I'd decided on doing the same again as it will all be in a hotel so no traipsing round in potential bad weather.   The dress, fine decided on that and other than finding some fabric I fancy, easy peasy.   The jacket, I had sorted decided on a Chanel type, not too formal and I could use later.  I've got the Vogue pattern that lots of people have used in the past.  Actually cut out but changed my mind once and shoved away. 

So visit to Linton tweeds to see what they had, which was around £35 a meter for one I quite liked.  Then I got a bit twitchy, what if it didn't look right and I'd spent all that money, bit faffy with their tweeds with the lining etc.  I quite like doing projects that take longer but what I don't like is the stress of having to stick to a time schedule, specially since I don't sew in December and January. For most people of course  that wouldn't be a problem.  Also I didn't want it to look Chanel, none of pockets features  that stand out.

Anyway I'm twaddling around with my Surface last night dithering on RTW stuff and thought I'd look at the Chanel RTW site.  £8,500  for a jacket.

So after lots more looking, dithering I think I might try it but, when you start sewing you forget what you have actually got in the wardrobe, and I remembered I had a nice cream Basler jacket with three quarter sleeves, which has only two outings since it was bought.  So since it will be April and in a hotel, that will be a good reserve jacket.

So that's my meandering over, carry on. :thinking:

[Gernella]

Well after studying various blogs on this subject, one very helpful, I have settled on doing one over the winter.  I've picked the fabric, just waiting for a couple of samples before I purchase. 

I had settled on the pattern I had the old Vogue 7975, but then got attracted to the Claire Schaeffer pattern 8804 that had a three piece sleeve. I do like two piece sleeves so  three even better.  The idea was to buy the pattern and utilise the sleeve, which I did off Amazon for £13.  However, now I've had a look at the instructions I think I will go for that since it is more semi fitted than the old Vogue.

I'm not sure on buttons, not that I can't do a handmade buttonhole, first thing I really ever learned, just the fact I'm not a button fan but since the fabric is too pricey to mess around I had better suck it.  I can do quilting can't I, I've had my finger in that pie and not bodged it up.

So I'm sort of scrounging round websites looking for information and by chance I do have a do have a Claire Schaeffer tucked away.

https://www.sewingchanelstyle.com/how-to-choose-your-right-sewing-pattern.html#

Hopefully, the fabric on its own will carry it and about time I did something that needs a lot of thinking about. Since I've got another jacket to wear for the wedding besides, there won't be any stress in rushing.
 

[Elnnina]

Gernella I shall be watching your progress with interest.

As an alternative to a hand sewn buttonhole, have you thought of doing a bound buttonhole - they do look superb on a tailored garment and are much easier to do than you think.  I was doing bound buttonholes in school, and this was also the method I used when doing my Couture and Tailoring courses.  If you like this idea, then why not have some trial runs on other fabric whilst you are waiting.  This is also where a 'clapper' will come into its own in pressing this, or if you do not have a clapper a nice new clean rolling pin will help, not only to use like a clapper to press the steam into the fabric but also to whack it if necessary.  Failing a suitable wooden whacking tool, do you have an unused wooden steak hammer and then use the flat end.  Perhaps a trip to your nearest £ shop for a rolling pin and or a wooden steak hammer.

Enjoy your making up of this jacket.

[Elnnina]

Sorry I meant to add that I, too, love a two piece sleeve, so a three piece one sounds even better and will give a lovely line, so again I shall look forward to seeing how you get on with this.  I also like Claire Schaeffer's patterns and articles, and I do have one or two of her patterns.

[jintie]

@Gernella , I think @Manuela posted info on how she makes her own Ch@#$l jackets.

 I was so happy to meet her when she was wearing one of her own makes.

Tip- before making this type of jacket, you MUST get someone to measure you. Otherwise, the front edges will not meet very well.
If you need a full bust adjustment, then the round neck Chanel jacket might not be very flattering.

[Greybird]

I sure someone made that Clare Shaeffer pattern ( @Lachica perhaps? ) and had a problem with it - maybe I'm remembering wrongly though?

[Manuela]

@Gernella, feel free to pick my brain if/when you decide to do a Chanel style jacket in the traditional (read time consuming) way. I made a few, and enjoyed the journey and would be more than happy to walk you through 
Ann Rowley made one a number of years ago and documented her journey step by step on Flickr.
Vogue 8804 by Ann Rowley

Confession: I’ve met @jintie a few time in Bristol. She has seen me in a lace dress, an Alice n Wonderland coat and a Chanel style jacket... 

[Gernella]

Tip- before making this type of jacket, you MUST get someone to measure you. Otherwise, the front edges will not meet very well.
If you need a full bust adjustment, then the round neck Chanel jacket might not be very flattering.

Funny that @jintie, because when I looked at the pattern, a 40 bust (builders back nothing the front), it showed a size 18, so I'm inclined to toile that bit  to see how it fits.  The only time I've had a problem with pattern sizing is with a Waffle Kaneel I did, which was fine on the back, short on the front, solved by adding a piece to the front. 

I've had a few looks at Ann Rowley's steps @Manuela, which is quite useful (I remember looking at some stitching and thinking it looked a bit tight) being picky

Studying form before I take steps is fine by me, I'm a good reader and have the time.  At the same time I'm not going to let it overwhelm me, it's a jacket just made a bit differently.  If something is not working/difficult I tend to walk away and come back later when I've given it some thought and cleared my head. 

Well, it will keep me out of trouble for a bit.

[Manuela]

@Gernella, looking at your reply to jintie, methinks Vogue 8804 might be the right pattern for you  It also has a 3-piece sleeve, so you could have that comfy cardigan feeling in a woven jacket.

[Gernella]

Got the fabric sample this afternoon @Manuela  and it is quite a sturdy fabric, I had visions of it fraying quite easily while you were working with it.


https://www.lintondirect.co.uk/product/y6520-blue-grey-white-and-black-fabric/

[Sewingsue]

So I'm sort of scrounging round websites looking for information and by chance I do have a do have a Claire Schaeffer tucked away.

https://www.sewingchanelstyle.com/how-to-choose-your-right-sewing-pattern.html#

Thanks @Gernella that is a really useful article.

[Ohsewsimple]

Oh that is lovely @Gernella.  They do have some lovely fabric. 

[Manuela]

Oooooohhhhh, that is gorgeous @Gernella, a nice weight too.



An yes, most probably it will fray quite a bit. There are two ways to deal with that. One is stay taping the seam allowances (and only them) with fusible tape, the other is working with fairly wide seam allowances and stay stitching them. I prefer the former.

[Lachica]

@Greybird I don't think it was me - long time since I made my MOB jacket.

[Greybird]

Sorry @Lachica - I wonder who it was? The problem was something to do with having to steam the fabric to shrink it to fit, which only worked with a natural fabric. I remember the thread because I had intended to buy that pattern and it put me off.