The Sewing Place

Doubting myself

Syrinx

Doubting myself
« on: August 28, 2020, 20:10:19 PM »
Going mad. Think the suiting thing is making me doubt my seam finishes

coffeeandcake

Re: Doubting myself
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2020, 20:24:44 PM »
I would do french seams

Syrinx

Re: Doubting myself
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2020, 21:29:49 PM »
Thanks! Today I've just been going mad, hopping from one fabric to another to another. My initial thought was French seams, the seams are only ⅜" so may be fiddly but not impossible.

On a good note, the pattern calls for over locking and then folding under for a narrow hem. No overlocker so I was debating what size zig zag may not chew my fabric when I figured I must have a rolled hem foot somewhere. I dig out the foot box. No rolled hem foot, but overcasting foot! Totally forgot I had that, so I overcast the challis flounce edge and then folded under and normal foot back on to sew a very narrow hem! It looks magnificent. Well it did in the semi dark. It did take forever to sew though as speed isn't a thing with that foot on.
I may try it out on the next knit I do. Foot has been upgraded to the quick access desk area.


BrendaP

Re: Doubting myself
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2020, 23:19:32 PM »
French seams are most appropriate for fine semi-transparent fabric.
Turning the seam allowances towards each other and sewing together is a mock French seam, or faux French seam.

Slightly heavier fabrics such as challis are best either plain seams with neatened edges or flat felled, or overlocked/overcast and then stitched down.  Best to do that from the right side so that it's easier to keep the stitching parallel to the seamline.

A 3/8" seam allowance on commercial patterns suggests that use of an overlocker is intended.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Syrinx

Re: Doubting myself
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2020, 23:41:42 PM »
It's a style arc woven fabric pattern. I can double check the sa but I'm pretty sure it's ⅜". Only mention of overlooking is the finish to the outer edge of the flounced collar.

It feels like quite a fine challis, there is some transparency to it hence the French seam idea. I don't think I'll have time to sew tomorrow but perhaps I'll be able to grab a picture showing it. It's definitely very lightweight with a silk like handle, though it's not slippy to sew.

Mock French seam! I knew it had a name