The Sewing Place

Weird fabric

dolcevita

Weird fabric
« on: September 12, 2020, 16:46:49 PM »
I'm making a blouse, the cover blouse of Burda 12/2019. It's a fairly simple design but with a bit of interest with an asymmeyric tie and shoulder placket with buttons and rouleau loops. All good.
I'm pretty sure that I bought this fabric a couple of years ago in Fabricland, but I could be wrong. Anyhow, it's a man-made fibre, about georgette weight and very soft and drapey, almost a sort of crepe. Again, all good.
I came to sew my sample just to check tension, stitch length and so on. I sewed with a straight stitch, microtex needle, narrow throat presser foot. The machine is performing well with everything else, no issues.  Here's my sample.
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I stress that there is no problem with my machine tension and I handled the fabric gently as it went through (using IDT). It looks like I've sewn jersey whilst stretching it to get a slight zigzag.
I tried many, many variations of things but in the end I concluded that it's the spongy/rubbery nature of the fabric that was causing the stretch. I reduced the presser foot pressure as low as possible and it did improve. Not perfect, but acceptable. I really like this fabric and it has the benefit of not fraying, but it it's truly the weirdest behaving fabric I've ever sewn!

Kwaaked

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2020, 17:02:27 PM »
I had some like this and ironing it fixed most of the issues.

Now, I do iron all my clothing in general and use a sizing spray which helped immensely with this spongy type of fabric sewing and wearing.

UttaRetch

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2020, 17:03:17 PM »
Have you tried a stretch needle?

dolcevita

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2020, 17:17:09 PM »
Have you tried a stretch needle?

I tried universal, microtex, ballpoint, jersey. All gave the same effect! If I thought it would have helped, I've have tried a leather needle, too!

I had some like this and ironing it fixed most of the issues.

Now, I do iron all my clothing in general and use a sizing spray which helped immensely with this spongy type of fabric sewing and wearing.

The seams look okay once I've pressed them, so I'm not too alarmed over this result. It just phased me as I've never come across it before - there are always new challenges to be had in sewing!
« Last Edit: September 12, 2020, 17:18:44 PM by dolcevita »

Marniesews

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2020, 17:25:21 PM »
I suspect it's a combination if its light weight with a general resistance to needle penetration. Have you tried sewing with a strip of thin plastic bag underneath (clear polythene like clothes packaging, thin dress cover)? I'd definitely give that a try. It should tear off pretty easily afterwards. 
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2020, 17:42:03 PM »
I was going to suggest Microtex as that often solves many problems. 
What about holding the fabric taut front and back as it goes through the machine. 
Definitely weird.   

BriarRose

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2020, 18:28:00 PM »
Weird fabric certainly describes it.  :S Beautiful design, though.
It's just fabric. We can out-think it.

Lilian

Re: Weird fabric
« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2020, 21:46:31 PM »
@dolcevita How about a good spray of starch to help stop the fabric from wiggling about?

@Marniesews that's a good tip about the polythene, I could have tried that with the drape dress I made (still not hemmed)
Willing but not always able :)