The Sewing Place

Men's shirts

dolcevita

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #15 on: August 01, 2021, 20:17:19 PM »
So much comes down to personal taste on the brand of pattern that you use. I've found that US patterns, McCalls, Butterick, etc. have a lot of ease and are very broad across the shoulder. European brands such as Burda are closer fitting with a slimmer look to them.

It's fun to have a look at expensive designer stuff, too, as it's easy to copy any features that you particularly like. If you're going to go to all the bother of making a shirt, it may as well look like an expensive one rather than one from Asda. My OH likes the style (not necessarily the fabric) of Angelo Galasso shirts, having seen Eddie Jordan wearing them on the F1 programmes, so I just transferred a few of the features of those onto his shirts. He also really likes Liberty lawn for his shirts as it's such a comfortable fabric to wear.
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badgermat

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2021, 03:42:47 AM »

If you're looking for a simpler shirt pattern that's easy to adapt for fit or formality, you could do a lot worse than Vanessa Mooncie's in har book the Gentleman's Wardrobe ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gentlemans-Wardrobe-Vintage-Style-Projects-Modern/dp/1861087470/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=the+gentleman%27s+wardrobe&qid=1627871107&sr=8-1 ).

The pattern includes short and long-sleeved variants, a simplified sleeve placket and a full front placket, and has a yoke that doesn't require burrito assembly (a bonus, I thought). The collar is a bit big, but that's an easy fix.

It's a fairly traditional design, with a boxy cut, but I've found it simple to adjust for a much slimmer fit. I certainly had no problems slimming down the arms, and creating a more fitted look, and reducing the ease required in the sleeve head. I suspect making it work for narrow shoulders would be trickier though.

Most of the shirts I've made have been relatively casual, but with the right fabric choice, this pattern can be made to look a lot sharper.

bm

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CCL

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #17 on: August 05, 2021, 13:49:08 PM »
@badgermat  - Nice!   

I was already to cut out the newest shirt when BH said he'd really like another causal vest, so I will do that first before getting on with the shirt.

Of course, I don't have any fabric on hand for the vest he wants, though I have plenty of fabric on hand for a multitude of other projects!
A hodge podge Flickr record of my sewing project albums here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums

CCL

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #18 on: September 27, 2021, 16:26:36 PM »
Started another McCall's 2447 shirt for Better Half (finished the vests).  Of course, just when I am ready for an easy sew, I picked a project with lots of pattern matching - make that check matching.  So far I have at least the front band and the pockets lined up correctly.


Mcalls 2447 Pocket substitution
 
M2447 - pocket stitched

Finished the sleeve plackets yesterday and also them lined up correctly, but no photos yet.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2021, 16:28:14 PM by CCL »
A hodge podge Flickr record of my sewing project albums here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums

dolcevita

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #19 on: September 27, 2021, 20:43:37 PM »
Love the pattern matching, horizontal and vertical. Just looking at it makes me smile :loveit:

CCL

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #20 on: September 29, 2021, 14:06:29 PM »
Love the pattern matching, horizontal and vertical. Just looking at it makes me smile :loveit:

I keep thinking about Esmee's remark about finding pattern matching on shirt yokes / pockets a bit boring - and Patrick's confessing that he does admire pattern matched.  I am always a little torn, but I definitely think I am in Patrick's camp.

It's like an inside secret - those who know, know.

At any rate... pattern matching continues.  Here are the sleeve plackets.   Not sure I will be able to keep thispattern matching up on the cuffs and rest of construction, but for now:


McCalls 2447 pattern matching on single piece sleeve plackets
A hodge podge Flickr record of my sewing project albums here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums

Bumblebuncher

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #21 on: September 29, 2021, 14:16:35 PM »
I admire your determination @CCL
I tried once, got bored, gave up lol
I think they do look much better matched properly, I'm just too lazy
 :perfect10:
BB
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As it neared the top of the grade, it went more slowly. However, it still kept saying, "I—think—I—can, I—think—I—can." It reached the top by drawing on bravery and then went on down the grade, congratulating itself by saying, "I thought I could,  I thought I could."

Esme866

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #22 on: September 29, 2021, 20:45:47 PM »
@CCL must have been someone else's remark, 'cause I'm fanatically OCD about pattern matching. :meditation: Love it!

Reupholstered a small sofa a few years back with fabric originally purchased for another project. The sofa needed to have the fabric railroaded to avoid piecing the fabric on the back and footboard. I forgot the fabric was directional, so I had to seam it on both sides. Had to point out the seams for my Mom and my best friend to see them. I hand basted the pattern before machine stitching.

If a character on tv is wearing an unmatched plaid or stripe, my concentration on enjoying the story is broken. Pretty sure that's OCD - as you seem to be also! :hug:


CCL

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #23 on: September 29, 2021, 23:14:14 PM »
@CCL must have been someone else's remark, 'cause I'm fanatically OCD about pattern matching. :meditation: Love it!

I was thinking that after I posted - I am sure it's my OCD coming out!

It was Esmee (sp) on the Great British sewing bee this season - she was referring to one of the contestants doing the yoke on the bias.   I wouldn't dream of besmirking your good name!  <3
A hodge podge Flickr record of my sewing project albums here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums

Esme866

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #24 on: September 30, 2021, 07:00:11 AM »
That makes more sense. :laughing:

How can anyone be involved with a program like that and not be obsesssed with pattern matching! :thumbsup:
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badgermat

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #25 on: September 30, 2021, 08:08:09 AM »

That pattern matching is great @CCL , nice work.

bm
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CCL

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #26 on: October 11, 2021, 15:42:17 PM »
Finally finished the shirt!

Here's the front:


McCalls 2447  check front - by CCL photos, on Flickr

I am pretty happy with the matching on the sleeve plackets and cuffs - that was a bear and tried my patience.

I opted to do the buttons slightly off center so that they would be in the middle of the black stripe - if centered correctly, they would be between the two stripes and look off center!  (Don't ask how I know!)

Here's the back.


McCalls 2447 check back by CCL photos, on Flickr


It seems I have ended up doing a 3-PAC for Better Half over the past few months - one shirt and two vests.

A hodge podge Flickr record of my sewing project albums here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums

Bumblebuncher

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #27 on: October 11, 2021, 15:52:26 PM »
I would have spots before my eyes matching those checks that well  :perfect10:
BB
As it neared the top of the grade, it went more slowly. However, it still kept saying, "I—think—I—can, I—think—I—can." It reached the top by drawing on bravery and then went on down the grade, congratulating itself by saying, "I thought I could,  I thought I could."

Esme866

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #28 on: October 11, 2021, 18:39:32 PM »
Excellent job @CCL ! :thumbsup:

Lachica

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #29 on: October 11, 2021, 20:49:02 PM »
That's great! That pattern matching is superb, it would make my eyes go squiffy.
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.