The Sewing Place

Men's shirts

Mocarroll

Men's shirts
« on: September 15, 2020, 18:39:46 PM »
I decided to make my very fussy husband some shirts.  Armed with David Coffin's excellent book and my new weapon of choice (newly acquired and serviced Singer 201K 1954 model - great year by the way!) I started by making a toile using Burda 6874.  Then I made a linen long sleeve with a "grandad" collar in a white linen.  I hoped to practice techniques before I started the real thing.  The linen was lovely to work with and I was pleased with the results.  I used the patterns for a tower placket and a collar band from David Coffin's book but otherwise used the pattern straight out of the packet.  My husband is a cycling nut and, like many cyclists is very slim and a standard size in ready to wear.
This fabric from Spoonflower with a nod to the Tour de France had his name on it but was quite expensive and I was terrified of the pattern matching.  In the end I matched the pocket and the button placket with the right front.  With hindsight I should have cut the buttonhole band as a separate piece and then I might have been able to match both fronts and the buttonhole band.
I learnt a lot  by making this, using glue pen on the sleeve fell seam and on the collar, using a buttonhole chisel for the first time.  But all credit goes to my lovely old Singer, what a star for topstitching!
The only thing I am not happy about is the fit of the shoulders.  Can anyone help?  I suspect the culprit is sloping shoulders and/or a forward shoulder so should I alter the bodice fronts and back rather than the yoke as David Coffin suggests?

Ellabella

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2020, 18:45:48 PM »
Those shirts look lovely. There is something very satisfying about making a nicely tailored shirt.

Well done.

Surest1tch

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2020, 19:25:25 PM »
That's a really nice shirt and fab fabric, so unusual 👍.

Ann

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2020, 20:17:08 PM »
Beautiful shirts for you husband. I make western shirts for my husband as he likes them long in the body and a bit larger in the cuffs. He also wants shirts with 2 pockets. The shirt pattern I use I bought way back in 2007-08 so it is discontinued.

Sloping shoulders -- Ron Collins (designs for Vogue patterns) helped me. I add to the shoulder seam on the back and take it away from the front one. So just that part of the shirt out of a remnant to try it out. I'm sure if you do some pinching of fabric you'll get close as to how much you need to add to the back and subtract from the front. Hope this helps.

Melly Sews talks about different types of shoulder adjustments. The one I did is a forward shoulder adjustment. I typed in shoulder adjustment for patterns and got lots of hits.

Hope this helps.
Stash Busting 2020
Goal: 50 metres
So far: 20.7 meters

dolcevita

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2020, 20:48:51 PM »
Lovely work! My OH gets a shirt for his birthday and, if he's really lucky, one for Christmas. I'd hate him to take them for granted!
I have sloping shoulders and usually do and adjustment. The main part is re-drawing the armhole ince you've dropped the shoulder to keep the armscye the same (more complicated than it sounds).
If you get peaks of fabric radiating out from the base of the armhole, it's probably sloping shoulders. Dropping the shoulder and then the armscye will fix this.

Sewot

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2020, 21:26:09 PM »
Lovely work on your shirt.
The shoulders look okay to me but something is telling you to do something about it and you are you.
Agree about Singer 201s...they are hard to beat. ( straight stitch)
I cannot help but would go for what David Coffin writes.
I also have his book and it is excellent.
I will never again wear a dress shirt so I stick to casual old time granpa shirts.
For the ladies that are unaware....the book also includes ladies shirt fittings!!!
Pete

toileandtrouble

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2020, 22:37:29 PM »
I would imagine that cyclists are prone to rounded backs, looking at the way they are on the bike. Look at the armhole seam at the back.  Those shirts definitely look as good, or better, than bought ones already.
(if you make too many adjustments, they get more and more picky - ask anyone here!)

Ploshkin

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2020, 07:31:15 AM »
My go to shirt pattern (tweaked to fit DH) has a yoke and so no shoulder seams.  The yoke seams sit a little way down the fronts.  It is easy to tweak these for a good fit.
DH has sloping shoulders and a very rounded back.
Life's too short for ironing.

UttaRetch

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2020, 08:20:30 AM »
The 'grand dad' shirt is beautifully sewn.
What goes around comes around.

Mocarroll

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2020, 20:06:56 PM »
(if you make too many adjustments, they get more and more picky - ask anyone here!)
Ain't that the truth @toileandtrouble !  I have spent the last few years focussing on fit for myself.  So by the time I've done a narrow back adjustment, high round back, sway back, forward shoulder, narrow shoulder, FBA, shorten waist, shorten length, shorten sleeve, add to waist I'm really fed up - takes ages on a commercial pattern.  The result is usually good but still I'm picking holes.  Don't think I want to go down that road with hubby's shirts. :facepalm:

Ellabella

Re: Men's shirts
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2020, 21:31:34 PM »
Thank god for a husband who favours a relaxed fit :D