The Sewing Place

neck band problem

sewingj

neck band problem
« on: October 15, 2020, 18:49:46 PM »
I`ve started making the Sinclair Sandy tunic and all was going well until I put the neckband on (only basted so far thank goodness).  I`m making the scoop neckline and have cut the correct band for that but it`s too big.  There are some rather random notches - one of which doesn`t seem to match to anything.  The back is ok but the front is baggy.  I`ve tried repositioning it to distribute the band more evenly but can`t do it successfully

I don`t know how to cut another band that will fit properly - or how to place that without any notches to guide me.  Can any of you better skilled ladies help?
Failing that I will make a neck facing (I know where I am with them)
Attempting to be a Tailor of Gloucester

Acorn

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2020, 18:58:08 PM »
I think it is normal for a neckband to be cut to 80% of the size of the neck, but it does vary depending on the stretchiness of your fabric.  I usually cut a strip that is too long, then pin it around the neckband stretching as seems appropriate, then cut it off, unpin it, join the ends and sew in as instructed.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

coffeeandcake

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2020, 19:12:58 PM »
I cut the neckband at 80% of the length of the neckline of the garment sew ends together, divide into 4. Then divide the neckline into 4 and stretch the neckband to fit between the divisions. I don't generally bother with the notches to guide me.

sewingj

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2020, 19:14:58 PM »
@Acorn I think I`ve done that before and it worked well.  The one with the pattern is also wider than I like so I could adjust that too

@coffeeandcake   just read your post - I`ll try that with the existing piece and see if I can make it work
Attempting to be a Tailor of Gloucester

Helen M

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2020, 20:09:33 PM »
I cut the neckband at 80% of the length of the neckline of the garment sew ends together, divide into 4. Then divide the neckline into 4 and stretch the neckband to fit between the divisions. I don't generally bother with the notches to guide me.

I do that too and it works 99.9% of the time!
Stash Busting 2021
Goal: 35 metres
So far: 1.5 metres

Catllar

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2020, 14:38:50 PM »
I stitch and stretch as I go and join the ends when it's on. That way you can alter the amount of tension depending on the curve ratio.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

sewingj

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #6 on: October 16, 2020, 15:44:12 PM »
Thanks everyone
I measured the original neckband and it is about 80% of the neckline so I had another go.  This time I did the quartering trick and ignored the notches and it`s worked!  It`s not quite as flat at the front as I would like but I think I`ll be able to sort that out with a good pressing
Attempting to be a Tailor of Gloucester

Acorn

Re: neck band problem
« Reply #7 on: October 16, 2020, 15:54:53 PM »
I have, on occasion, inserted some elastic thread inside a neckband - not enough to make it gathered, but just enough to stop it from flopping.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.