The Sewing Place

neckband - cut on bias or not?

sewingj

neckband - cut on bias or not?
« on: December 07, 2020, 16:05:50 PM »
Back in  September 2018 I asked for advice about finishing a stretchy neckline in Jersey - and Francesca posted a very useful reply which tells me to cut a strip  2inches wide long enough to go round the neckline plus a bit.  I printed this off but the original seems to have vanished from the forum.  My notes don't say if the strip should be cut on the straight or bias, but the instructions do tell me to stretch it a bit as I pin it to the neckline
What should I do?  The top I am making has a round slightly scooped neckline and the fabric is a fairly stable cotton jersey
« Last Edit: December 07, 2020, 16:28:30 PM by sewingj »
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So Chic

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2020, 16:21:40 PM »
If you can’t find the instructions there are several good YouTube videos illustrating how to do a bound neckline.
So Chic
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Ellabella

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2020, 16:27:25 PM »
For jersey I would cut  across the width of fabric so you have the maximum stretch around the neckline. I wouldn’t cut a knit on the bias.

I always cut more than I need but stretch it gently as I sew.

Efemera

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2020, 16:30:47 PM »
I always cut a strip about 2” wide using a rotary cutter and ruler. I put the garment on the ironing board , fold the binding in half and ‘walk it around’ the neckline, stretching a bit where the curvy bits are....the front and the shoulder ...the most curvy bits. I add 2cm for joining.

eclectic

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2020, 17:50:10 PM »
I wouldn't cut a knit on the bias.. the reason for cutting on the bias is to add a bit of give/stretch to a woven fabric. So the knit already has stretch therefore I would look at my fabric and see which direction behaves the best when I cut it (i.e. which curls less on the edge) and I cut my bindings shorter than the neckline otherwise it will flop out (the top eďge of your binding needs to be smaller like it would be if it were the top/pattern edge ... err someone help me explain that better. Every fabric and pattern is different ...but... I find 90% reduction is a pretty good match most of the time.
Edited to remove the moving emojis!
« Last Edit: December 07, 2020, 18:15:24 PM by eclectic »
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sewingj

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2020, 18:08:36 PM »
Thanks very much - I remember doing it pretty much as Efemera says and it was fine but just couldn`t remember about the bias issue
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Helen M

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2020, 20:13:31 PM »
I'm trying to find a tutorial that worked well for me when I didn't have a pattern piece but can't locate it. From memory your neckband should measure less than your neckline so that it sits correctly, maybe 7/8ths of your garment neck.

For attaching it I use the following method. Mark centre back and front on garment then fold and quarter it marking the garment (it's usually a bit down from the shouler seam. Take your folded neckband and mark centre back and front then quarter that. Pin to corresponding marks on garment and stretch neck band to fit garment. Use a lot of pins and loosely baste before machine sewing. Hope that makes sense.

If I find tutorial I'll post a link to it
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Lachica

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2020, 22:38:24 PM »
What @Helen M says. For cotton/lycra I cut the neckband to 85% of neckline measurement then add 15mm for the seam. If the fabric is very stretchy (eg viscose jersey or thin poly jersey I'd use 80%. For a thicker (sweatshirt) fabric with less stretch I'd go to 90%
Mary
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SkoutSews

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2020, 22:45:20 PM »
I use the following formula, which came from Ottobre magazine 2/2013.

Measure the length to be finished (L). For binding cut from the knit used for the actual garment (stretch recovery 20-30%) use L x 0.85 for the binding length. For binding cut from ribbing (stretch recovery 40-50%) use L x 0.70. Use a 3.5cm wide strip.

Then apply it as @Helen M describes.

Ha! @Lachica beat me to it!

Greybird

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2020, 22:59:32 PM »
Yes I cut mine shorter than the neck edge too (how much varies with the amount of stretch), and most knits are stretchy enough without cutting on the bias.

Happymrsg

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2020, 20:48:19 PM »
I learned about this tutorial in Threads, on this forum or (more likely) its predessessor

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits

sewingj

Re: neckband - cut on bias or not?
« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2020, 12:27:45 PM »
Thanks everyone

@Happymrsg I tried that method a while ago but I don`t have an overlocker and if you can`t finish the raw edges neatly you end up with bits that curl up and that can show when you wear the garment.
For me, applying the binding as a strip - much like you would bind the armholes on a sleeveless garment - gives a neater finish on the wrong side which lies flatter
Attempting to be a Tailor of Gloucester