Pattern size advice

[EdTheMaker]

Apologies if this is a common question... I have bought a pattern for a men's blazer:

https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/our-brands/simplicity/simplicity-sewing-pattern-s8962-mens-lined-blazer/

I have also attached pic of the envelope back.

My question is if my chest measures 42 inches do i then follow this down to the 'Finished garment size' and choose the 45 inch option?
I have also heard and found from experience that commercial patterns always tend to end up slightly on the big side.

I'm guessing the the only real answer will be to sew some kind of toile but don't think this will be as easy as when I have sewn shirts.
Any advise will be appreciated.

[Starryfish]

Yes, you choose by your actual chest size. This gives you 3" of ease according to the chart. Have you got a blazer that fits you well? If so measure the chest on that and see how much ease it has.

I've never made a Simplicity Men's pattern, but the women's have always had far too much ease for me, and this has been constant for decades! It would be foolish to make something as time consuming as a jacket without a toile. I always do so with a coat or jacket, doing without will lead to something very ill fitting. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear!

[EdTheMaker]

Yes, you choose by your actual chest size. This gives you 3" of ease according to the chart. Have you got a blazer that fits you well? If so measure the chest on that and see how much ease it has.

I've never made a Simplicity Men's pattern, but the women's have always had far too much ease for me, and this has been constant for decades! It would be foolish to make something as time consuming as a jacket without a toile. I always do so with a coat or jacket, doing without will lead to something very ill fitting. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear!

Thanks Starryfish! Actually I quite like the idea of starting with a toile. I did the same before when sewing my first shirt and it really took the stress out of the whole experience. Can I still use a an old bed sheet like i did with shirt though, or do I need to use a heavier fabric? I guess if finding the right size is the goal then I only really need to construct it very roughly.

[Starryfish]

I'd buy some calico, it has more body than an old sheet. You don't need to put the collar on or the pockets, but you do need at least one sleeve, both if you have assymetry in your shoulders etc.

[Morzel]

You first check your actual size and look at the chart. 42 inches is size 42 (or European size 52). This is what the pattern inside should be marked with. The actual garment size is then 45 inches. It is really nice to give those actual numbers on the envelope, as it lets you see how wide the garment will end up being. The garment has to have some ease, as you would not fit into it otherwise (if it is not a lycra swimsuit, that is...  )

If you got a similar garment in your closet, button it up and measure underneath the armhole across the body. Is it about half of the 45 inches stated in your chart above?  Than you'll be able to guess how big the garment will turn out to be.

[EdTheMaker]

Thanks everyone! Lots of good advice. I'll be sure to post some pics of my progress.

[badgermat]

Another strong recommendation for making a toile. Preferably out of something a bit heavier than a bedsheet.

If you don't have or can't easily find some cheap calico, try curtains from a charity shop (seriously). Quite apart from anything else, it should be a lot clearer which is the right and wrong side of the cloth 

In my limited experience, the parts that will prove the most problematic will be the junction between the lapel and collar, and doing things like welted pockets. If nothing else it will be worth doing a partial toile of these elements.

bm

[Tamnymore]

I agree with what everyone is saying about a toile. Also I wouldn't assume that a commercial pattern would necessarily have a lot of ease. They do vary. In my experience if you get the shoulders fitting everything else falls into place!

[jen]

Popping in to say put the shoulder pads in when fitting the toile.

[Catllar]

Poping in to to say it's worth toiling any techniques that are new to you. I made a hand tailored jacket a few years back and did a toile of the sleeve vents and pocket flap piping.  Also if you are putting in the work then use sew-in canvas rather than the fusible muck product.