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Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem

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Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« on: January 27, 2021, 16:49:46 PM »
Hi everyone!

I'm currently working on making a 1920's undershirt from an antique pattern. It's been going well, but one of the biggest issues has been turning the hem, which is extremely curved. I try easing the fabric, but I always end up with lots of puckers. I followed a suggestion I saw online to try lightly gathering the hem, but this didn't solve the issue. I ended up making a little fold at the apex of the curve on my toile, which took away many of the puckers, but it didn't completely resolve the issue and isn't aesthetically pleasing.

All of that's to say... does anyone have any advice on turning an extremely curved hem?

Ploshkin

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2021, 17:03:05 PM »
It sounds as though you've tried the usual techniques.  The only thing I can add is to try Wash Away Wonder Tape which is very narrow and adhesive on both sides.  I have used it on shirt tails.  It doesn't solve the pucker problem but it does make it easier to make sure the fullness is spread evenly.  I stick the hem down at strategic spots then can concentrate on easing the excess on the in between bits.
What is your fabric?  If it is woven cotton shrinking with steam could help.
Life's too short for ironing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2021, 19:35:01 PM »
I run a line of stitching round before turning.  It stops the fabric stretching.  How deep is the hem?   
The more curved the hem, the narrower it needs to be. 

Ellabella

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2021, 21:49:51 PM »
Have you enough fabric to cut bias strips and use them to make a faced hem?

BrendaP

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2021, 23:06:18 PM »
The tighter the curve the narrower the hem has to be, but it also depends on the fabric how easy or difficult it is to ease the curve.  Jerseys and modern stretchy fabrics are easier to ease than firm woven fabrics.

@Ellabella 's suggestion of a faced hem is good.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Swingout Sewing

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2021, 14:32:06 PM »
@Ploshkin Thanks for the suggestions! I really like the idea of securing the hem at even intervals and easing the fabric between those spots.

@Ohsewsimple I’ll definitely try staystitching the hem, that’s a great idea. Right now, the hem is ¼” to match the flat felled seams I used at the sides and shoulders, but I’ll experiment with making it 1/8”

@Ellabella One of the frustrating things about trying to make an “authentic” historical reproduction is that I’m limited to what techniques I can get away with based on what was commonly used at the time. That would probably work really well, but I think I’m too much of an annoying purist to try it out. Although if I get too frustrated, I’ll probably give it a go.

@BrendaP The fabric I bought for the final version has quite a bit of give, so that gives me hope!

Thanks everyone for your help! :)

Ohsewsimple

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2021, 17:57:46 PM »
Another method I use is to sew round the edge with an overlocker, of course not everyone has one, and make the width about 1/4”.  If needed you can use differential feed to slightly draw it up.  I don’t often have to.  Then you have a ready made width to turn and turn again if desired. I’ve use this on a few shirts. 

Swingout Sewing

Re: Would Love Some Help With This Extremely Curved Hem
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2021, 18:57:06 PM »
@Ohsewsimple Unfortunately my super-old machine doesn't have an overlocking function, but thanks for the suggestion! :)