The Sewing Place

Blouse Fitting Video - How a customer used Peggy Sagers techniques.

ClareInStitches

I don't find all of Peggy Sagers videos of interest, but this one was:

http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_07_17_2017.htm

or on YouTube, her video starts at about 1min. in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MqSlHWWw7I

A customer shows how she used LCD to fit a toile and wears the results.

I find Peggy's style a bit trying, but this was made much more interesting by the input from an actual sewer.

Enjoy!

Catllar

Re: Blouse Fitting Video - How a customer used Peggy Sagers techniques.
« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2017, 22:32:56 PM »
Thanks for this - had a quick look and have bookmarked for later.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

b15erk

Re: Blouse Fitting Video - How a customer used Peggy Sagers techniques.
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2017, 12:18:13 PM »
I saw that one, and the blouse fitted her very well.  I like Peggy, and I enjoy her sew-alongs, she also does the shorter Youtube videos on a Monday.

Never used her patterns, just enjoy watching her.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Elnnina

Re: Blouse Fitting Video - How a customer used Peggy Sagers techniques.
« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2017, 15:53:56 PM »
I watched this video with interest, whilst I know nothing at all about this lady nor her patterns,  I did pick up a few useful pointers.

Peggy mentions that the underarm bust dart should be just below the bulge of the bust – and as I have a very full bust I will try this method out on a toile and see how I get on,

Next she mentioned gaping at the armhole and her solution was for Laura who she was helping try a larger front pattern piece i.e. use the piece for a ‘D’ cup instead of what she had used which was a ‘C’ cup.  Is it as simple as that?  However what about us ladies who are way above a ‘D’ cup – rarely do pattern pieces extend beyond a ‘D’ cup fitting even on the patterns that have multiple front pieces ?

Now in the middle of the video  Peggy just happened to mention that she had not picked up about Laura’s blouse back neck which was gaping at the back, i.e. pulling back and that was due to Laura having a slightly rounded high back  On the  second toile Laura had made,  this was in some cashmere luxury fabric that Peggy had given her to use thus it had a different handle to the fabric and was lovely and soft and draped well.  At the time Peggy couldn’t see that the high back needed a little more room as the fabric was so soft.  Laura then chose a beautiful blue linen and had asked the question about underlining this and was told no she did not need to.  However Laura said she had washed her linen four times in Coca Cola and this then gave the linen a much softer  feel.  The only thing Laura was not happy about was the fact that the blouse fell back at the neck, and this was corrected for later blouses by slashing the back about 6” below the neck edge and inserting about a ¾” dart.  The slash went to the armholes not through them.

A lot was made that the armholes on the various patterns were all interchangeable, so the many patterns were interchangeable as far as sleeves ad armholes were concerned.

One thing however I just did not understand and that was towards the end of the video Peggy mentions that we do not need to do a FBA, if the bust shaping is too high then just slash the pattern across the whole front width and drop this down by inserting the necessary amount of paper, and if necessary take this same amount out underneath the bust – but this doesn’t address the need for those of us who are so generously endowed and need more fabric to accommodate a much larger bust fitting.

Has anyone used a Silhouette pattern and has a larger than normal bust cup size – how did you get on – what was the fit like, did the method of just dropping the bust shaping down work for you despite this only going up to a ‘D’ cup size?

Laura had made herself some armhole templates, (yellow card) and she happened to mention that she had transferred on to her templates the armhole numbers from her French curve.  So now she had her own personal armhole that fitted her and that she was comfortable with, in future she could just use this instead of the pattern’s armhole on any future garments.

I have watched this through twice now, and on looking at Peggy’s website cannot find out anything on the ‘Cup’ sizes.  Does anyone know what you do if you are a ‘J’ or ‘K’ cup size?



toileandtrouble

Re: Blouse Fitting Video - How a customer used Peggy Sagers techniques.
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2017, 13:51:02 PM »
HH here. I start from a high bust size pattern, so it fits my back and shoulders, then do a large FBA.  D or DD pieces are nowhere near.  I find princess style shaping the easiest to alter.  I am planning to try a different approach soon. Starting by drawing onto plain cotton, around the original pattern pieces for the centre front and sides, leaving about 3" extra alongside the bust seam lines.  Then I'm going to pin onto my centre front, side seam and shoulder (wearing t shirt!) try it on and see how best to make the join.  Pin  closely, mark the waist seam level and then take it off and draw along the join (and drawing in a seam allowance too) That should show me the best possible way to do the alteration. Should hopefully be easy to  measure and adapt to other patterns. I'll let you know if it is better than just cutting and measuring.

Elnnina

Re: Blouse Fitting Video - How a customer used Peggy Sagers techniques.
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2017, 22:52:14 PM »
Hi toileandtrouble, that is an interesting way to try and deal with a much larger ‘cup’ size, shall watch this space with interest.  I do in fact favour princess line seaming

I am currently working on a Connie Crawford Shoulder Princess line sloper, and my first toile has thrown up some problems which I am now working on.  I have already dropped the bust shaping down on the first toile, and feel I need to drop this a little more on the second toile, I also feel I need to make the centre panels  wider, and somehow extend the side panel over towards the armhole where I have quite a bit of gaping.  Help according to Peggy I need to go up a cup size, but I am working outside of a ‘D’ cup size already.  Of course I do not want it to become too baggy above the chest and that is what could happen if I am not careful when adding to the width of the centre and front side panels.  Needs a lot of thinking through.

Whilst I do not mind making toiles, it would be nice to get this sorted once and for all.  The calico is never wasted though as it can be used for other things, but I do need some new clothes and fast.

The Connie Crawford Sloper I am using is
CS1 301 Shoulder Princess Blouse Master Pattern which comes  in two groups of sizes:
Misses sizes 8-20 covering cup sizes from A/B, C/D/DD/E, (DDD)F/G, and H/I cup sizes.  So bust sizes 34/35” up to 52/53”.

Then Women’s sizes 1X – 6X covering cup sizes from A/B, C/D/DD/E, (DDD)F/G, and H/I cup sizes. So bust sizes  48/49” up to 72/74”

I first saw this sloper pattern in Threads magazine December 2013/January 2014 where there was an  article called ‘Add a Princess Seam’.  Connie also does an armhole princess seam sloper pattern as well and this is CS1 302.  Connie’s website is www.fashionpatterns.com.

It is my intention when I finally get the fit I am seeking is to have the armhole just as I want as well as the shape of the top of the sleeve, and then these can be interchangeable.

I also treated myself to a Grading Book by Connie so I can hopefully alter many patterns that I have from the era of Vogue Couture and Vogue Designer, that are now far too small for my figure but are what I call classic patterns.  However I haven’t got into using the Grading Book yet.

In fact I am surrounded by books, articles from Threads, fitting books, drafting books, Fit for Real People and Full Busted  DVD  trying to find the best way forward for me.