The Sewing Place

Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?

SkoutSews

Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« on: February 05, 2021, 15:31:15 PM »
I'm making the boiled wool coat, no. 9 of Ottobre 5/2020, from a lovely rich purple-coloured boiled wool. The pattern is for an unlined coat and, when I've been looking through my books for tips on sewing boiled wool, they all say that it is usually made-up unlined.

As all the seams are lapped and edgestitched, the inside of the coat will be neat enough, and in any case the fabric does not fray.

I want to add a lining, firstly for warmth, and secondly because it will be easier to wear and put on and take off. That thing of trying to put your arm into the coat sleeve and ending up with your jumper sleeve pushed halfway up your arm and twisted is just horrible!

My question is, is there any good reason not to line the coat?

SkoutSews

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2021, 15:32:44 PM »

Ploshkin

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2021, 15:52:58 PM »
I couldn't not line wool because I would probably find it prickly even through clothes.
Life's too short for ironing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2021, 15:55:20 PM »
I’d have to line wool to.  There seem to be quite a few coat patterns without lining.  Seems weird to me.  But it’s an easy make then.

SkoutSews

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2021, 15:56:50 PM »
Both with me on comfort, then!

Lemon Syllabub

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2021, 17:53:10 PM »
I think at the very least I'd want to try to line the sleeves... or else, knowing me, I'd never get my arms in!  :rolleyes:

I do like the look of the magazine.
Is it very 'Burda-esque' or is the tracing a little kinder on the old eyesite?  8) 8) 8)

Nevis5

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2021, 18:07:15 PM »
I don't think boiled wool is particularly itchy but I'd also want to line it.  Because I line everything ;)

@Lemon Syllabub   I find Ottobre an absolute nightmare to trace - all the lines are the same colour, unlike Burda which has different colours for different sizes.   I have to laboriously trace over the lines with coloured pens before tracing through paper.  Other people may think differently, of course :) x

Lemon Syllabub

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2021, 18:29:05 PM »
@Nevis5
Wow! Thanks for the advice.

Flobear

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2021, 21:09:05 PM »
I have two boiled wool jackets - both bought not made by me. One is lined, one isn't. The lined one is much easier to slip on over clothing as mentioned above.
Proud new owner of Elvistoo !!

SkoutSews

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #9 on: February 05, 2021, 22:36:41 PM »
Thanks for the replies. @Flobear, it's good to hear of a RTW lined jacket. So it's not verboten!
I'm going to line it. I've started sewing up today and there are a lot of fibres coming off the fabric. Without a lining, anything underneath it would be covered in purple bits. That's a third reason for lining, then.

@Lemon Syllabub, I usually get on well with Ottobre patterns. They're very wearable and seem to be a close match to my shape, certainly better than the Big 4. Tracing is a bit tedious, but I find it easier than printing and taping pdfs, for example. It's a matter of preference in the end. The instructions are sketchy, so it helps to have some prior experience of assembling garments.

Efemera

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #10 on: February 06, 2021, 08:41:10 AM »
I like Ottobre patterns....once you ‘get your eye in ‘ the pieces are easy to spot.

Lemon Syllabub

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2021, 10:33:32 AM »
@SkoutSews yes, they do look very wearable and it's good to find a company whose block resembles your own measurements.

I've recently discovered the dubious joys of PDF patterns... instant gratification  :dance: but yes, a faff to stick together and then they're so bulky to store.   -<

@Efemera  so that's one more skill I need to develop!

SkoutSews

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2021, 16:56:15 PM »
Just to add, @Lemon Syllabub I don't actually trace the Ottobre patterns. Instead I put a large piece of corrugated cardboard (salvaged from packaging of online purchases) on the table, then a piece of paper (from a roll of paper table covering) and secure the pattern sheet over the top. I then mark the paper by sticking a pin through the outline of the pattern piece. It's a straightforward 'join the dots' exercise after that.

It's not my idea, I read it on this site or its predecessor.

Lemon Syllabub

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #13 on: February 06, 2021, 17:03:34 PM »
@SkoutSews  That is inspired!  :thumbsup:

dolcevita

Re: Boiled wool coat - to line or not to line?
« Reply #14 on: February 06, 2021, 17:17:17 PM »
I've done a couple of boiled wool jackets, one Lekala and one Burda. Both unlined because of their style, but they do stick to sleeves a bit when taking on and off. Without lining, boiled wool is nowhere near as warm as you might think it is and so it's worth doing if you want it to be more coat weight, rather than layering jacket weight.

I love Ottobre designs and their fit and drafting is really consistent. Their clothes are so wearable apart from just now and again, they look as though they've spent too much time scoffing magic mushrooms in the arctic forests of Finland and come up with something really weird.