The Sewing Place

Seam finishing


Seam finishing
« on: August 22, 2017, 12:20:24 PM »
I have just been dong the irioning and now have an empty basket. :angel:  but alas there is more washing in the machine which will soon be in the ironing basket.

The pile included two princess line woven cotton dresses which I made a couple of years ago.  The seams are mostly plain with the edges overlocked to finish the raw edges, like this.  The armscye seam, where sleeve joins to bodice, are finished like this, as I was taught to do.

The open seams are fine in the skirt and other straight areas, but at bust line and mid back where the seams curve they don't lay flat!.  I didn't clip because I was finishing with the overlocker, but it's got me thinking about what would have been a better solution: 
  Trimming seam allowances narrower?
  Overlocking both sides together? 
  French seams? 
  Run and Fell?

I guess it's part of the reason why so much RTW is just stitched and overlocked in one pass even on woven fabrics.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2017, 12:28:56 PM »
With princess seams (or other curved areas), I usually use a very narrow seam allowance (1/4") , serge together and press towards center. French seams on curves are a...well, not an easy thing :)
If you'd rather have wider seam allowances, clipping is really necessary for them to lay flat.
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2017, 13:12:31 PM »
I think for curved seams you don't have to clip if you trim the seam alowances so that they are very narrow, so you could overlock them with a narrow seam allowance.

I don't have an overlocker. I think I would either straight stitch close to the seam and then pink them (so that they are narrow), or shape them and hand overcast them like this:


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2017, 14:19:44 PM »
I french seam anything I can. I don't find them tough on most curves, e.g princess seams. Just got to make them small and narrow. I usually do between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch french seams.


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2017, 13:29:45 PM »
I came on with a similar question.  Namely if the pattern says to clip curves (e.g. princess seams) how do you finish the edges?  Do people generally not clip curves?  I would usually overlock each piece individually but then would this unravel with the clipping?


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2017, 14:08:45 PM »
I use my machine's overlock foot for the edges and clip seams where the pattern says.  Generally seams are pressed open, so I wouldn't overlock the edges together.
What goes around comes around.


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2017, 01:10:07 AM »
For a casual dress or top in cotton, I overlock princess seams and press to one side. If it is a nicer dress or less cooperative fabric, I will trim and clip the seam allowance and line the bodice.


Re: Seam finishing
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2017, 12:07:34 PM »
Or you could line it and not bother with finishing the seam allowance (unless it is a particularly fray-y fabric!)