The Sewing Place

A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")

juliam

A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
« on: May 29, 2017, 17:53:47 PM »
Help please - I need advice pretty urgently!

I have to create a train in the Simplicity coat pattern - view D. In a beaded lace fabric as per the pictures.

There's a gather in the back slightly and I want to cut across the waistline and then create a fall in the lace but cutting a curve, say 4", in the lower back and stitch along the straight waist edge. I think this will create a fall, aka train int back of the coat?

Would this work do you think? I've tried in a toile but it doesn't seem to work (probably because it's a cotton drill).

I've got two weeks - yikes!
« Last Edit: June 04, 2017, 11:10:42 AM by JuliaM »
Nil volvpti, sine lucre
Motto of the Guild of Seamstresses, Ankh Morpork
H-V Designer Topaz 40, H-V #1+ (Orchidea), Singer 201K (1950s origin)

Efemera

Re: Help please!
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2017, 21:30:37 PM »
Could you post a picture of the toile...or a sketch of what you want...

BrendaP

Re: Help please!
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2017, 21:40:51 PM »
Pictures of the sketch would help, but I'm thinking that you need to do the toile with something which drapes well such as old sheeting or duvet cover.  Cotton drill is probably much too stiff.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

b15erk

Re: Help please!
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2017, 13:37:06 PM »
Have you got an old lace curtain Julia - you know the heavy ones?  Maybe the charity shop?

I don't see how it wouldn't work, and in that lace - gorgeous!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Vegegrow

Re: Help please!
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2017, 14:32:16 PM »
good advice from everyone ..I've never put a train on something that way  but the theory sounds fine... I would cut it bigger than 4" though  you can always trim off a inch but you can't add
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

maliw

Re: Help please!
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2017, 14:48:35 PM »
Just a thought, does the front of the coat have to be squared off as in the photo? I would be tempted to just make the coat longer and then  round off the front into a longer back to make a train rather than cutting it across the back where there are no seam lines at present. Does that follow, I know what I mean anyway?
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

juliam

Re: Help please!
« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2017, 18:47:55 PM »
Thank you all for the help.
What I've actually done is added a curve to the back and then to retain the lace border I have placed the cut edge into the side seam and the fold is then pleated to keep the fullness.
Seems to work on the chiffon toile anyway!
Nil volvpti, sine lucre
Motto of the Guild of Seamstresses, Ankh Morpork
H-V Designer Topaz 40, H-V #1+ (Orchidea), Singer 201K (1950s origin)

DementedFairy

Re: Help please!
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2017, 18:49:29 PM »
I think I would have cut off the border and reapplied it after getting a 'normal' train shape.  lol
C'est moi!

b15erk

Re: Help please!
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2017, 09:15:39 AM »
How's it going Julia?  Any progress?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

juliam

Re: Help please!
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2017, 11:41:19 AM »
The last couple of nights has been adjusting the bodice!
Nil volvpti, sine lucre
Motto of the Guild of Seamstresses, Ankh Morpork
H-V Designer Topaz 40, H-V #1+ (Orchidea), Singer 201K (1950s origin)

juliam

Re: Help please!
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2017, 16:54:24 PM »
Bodice finished apart from the buttons.

After all the advice bride to be has changed her mind to a lace overlay on her skirt and a waist length lace jacket. Handy but it means I've wasted a bunch of time on getting the coat the hang right on a toile. Grrr!  ><
Nil volvpti, sine lucre
Motto of the Guild of Seamstresses, Ankh Morpork
H-V Designer Topaz 40, H-V #1+ (Orchidea), Singer 201K (1950s origin)

maliw

Re: Help please!
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2017, 20:20:29 PM »
Bridezilla?
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

juliam

Re: Help please!
« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2017, 09:19:28 AM »
The decision could have been made earlier but no, not really.
I'm late on the project due to my dad passing on in early May and the funeral arrangements came first. Just circumstances conspiring against us
Nil volvpti, sine lucre
Motto of the Guild of Seamstresses, Ankh Morpork
H-V Designer Topaz 40, H-V #1+ (Orchidea), Singer 201K (1950s origin)

maliw

Re: Help please!
« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2017, 10:35:47 AM »
Sorry to hear your sad news Julia, take care.
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

juliam

Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2017, 11:19:41 AM »
Sorry to hear your sad news Julia, take care.
Thanks Mali.

I've added some pictures of where I'm at - I know we all love a picture!

The 'dress' is a skirt and bodice as per the Simplicity pattern. My Bride is a tricky shape so it's been modified and I designed the back overlay detail to cover the zip, and it's piped top and bottom. There are plastic 'baliene' bones in the side seam and back but not at the front, and it's all interlined with a soft cotton twill for strength. Self colour buttons added today to finish.

The skirt is plain A line, full length and will be overlaid with the lace in the first post, with a small train created. It's made up apart from the overlay, which was only decided on yesterday. I can't finish this yet as BTB is a little larger than when we had the first fittings - she's on a cup-a-soup diet! (Other snack based soups products are available  :))

I'll update the thread as things develop!
Nil volvpti, sine lucre
Motto of the Guild of Seamstresses, Ankh Morpork
H-V Designer Topaz 40, H-V #1+ (Orchidea), Singer 201K (1950s origin)