The Sewing Place

question about french darts

RachelB

question about french darts
« on: March 30, 2021, 02:48:21 AM »
I have been working on sewing a knockoff of this Vampire's Wife dress in this link for myself:
https://www.matchesfashion.com/us/products/The-Vampire's-Wife-The-Falconetti-floral-print-ruffled-silk-dress-1374782?epik=dj0yJnU9LUQ3RGV2NmZ3XzFveGxiQTg3TGwxbnVpWlFaY0tsdDMmcD0wJm49eUZXTG1UZWpFdUh0WjZscXFkck1PdyZ0PUFBQUFBR0JpZ1M0

I am using the bodice from McCalls 8032:  https://somethingdelightful.com/m8032   
and the skirt from McCalls 7994: https://somethingdelightful.com/m7994 

I am making changes to both that are needed to copy the dress.

I am on my 4th muslin and just about have the fit correct, and then someone (not on this forum) pointed out to me that the original dress has French darts on each side of the bodice.  :facepalm:  I want my dress to be as close a replica as possible. The bodice of M8032 has waist and bust darts.  I have never sewn French darts before.  Is there a way to change those two sets of darts into a single French dart on each side of the bodice? Thanks.

Efemera

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2021, 08:34:36 AM »

UttaRetch

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2021, 09:25:04 AM »
@RachelB, I have been following your adventure over at the other place and know that you have sourced the exact fabric and your choice of patterns will get you the look, so I wonder why you are obsessing over this small detail?

Iminei

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2021, 09:51:17 AM »
My point too ... If the dress LOOKs the same and fits Why???

Just a note to the video girl ... She should use Pastel coloured paper instead of white against the white background and a sharpie instead of a barely noticeable pencil line ... would have made things much clearer (in my Non Lightside opinion)
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Gernella

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2021, 10:30:48 AM »
French darts, I always called them darts, I didn't think they were that posh.
Stash extension 2024- 6.1 meters
Left at the end of 2023 - 66 meters now (includes fabric found hidden out of sight)  Lining fabric not included

BrendaP

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2021, 10:36:14 AM »
@Gernella   I had to look at the video link posted by Efemera to see what was meant by French dart - in my book it's just moving the dart to a different angle - which you can do on any (bodice) pattern.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

toileandtrouble

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2021, 10:43:13 AM »
I thought French dart referred to those beautiful curved darts, not the straight ones?
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Lachica

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2021, 11:32:07 AM »
I've always understood French darts to be double ended, vertical or maybe curved, used on fronts & backs of dresses which have the skirt section joined to the bodice. You're using separate bodice & skirt parts so you will dart both pieces, taking great care to match both the dart position (easy) and the fabric pattern, allowing for seam allowances.
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

Ohsewsimple

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2021, 11:49:38 AM »
The video shows it quite well.  But I don’t think I’d stress over changing the darts you have if the fit is ok. 

@Iminei tge reason she uses a pencil is because it’s accurate.  No one who pattern cuts would use a Sharpie although I see your point about it not showing up well.  And yes, different coloured paper would have been better.

RachelB

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2021, 15:35:29 PM »
This might be of interest
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDSwT5XyTGU
@Efemera  Thank you for that video.  I actually found it after posting the question.  It is great.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2021, 15:41:49 PM by RachelB »

RachelB

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2021, 15:37:02 PM »
My point too ... If the dress LOOKs the same and fits Why???

Just a note to the video girl ... She should use Pastel coloured paper instead of white against the white background and a sharpie instead of a barely noticeable pencil line ... would have made things much clearer (in my Non Lightside opinion)

It is the perfectionist in me.  I wish I was not that way because it can take the joy out of hobbies.

RachelB

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2021, 15:39:31 PM »
French darts, I always called them darts, I didn't think they were that posh.

I did some research on them yesterday, and I came across this description on Mood Fabrics Sewciety: As the name implies, the French Dart starts around the waistline and works its way up to the apex of the bust. These look very similar to plain darts, but tend to be a little longer and slimmer, so French!   

RachelB

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2021, 15:40:33 PM »
@Gernella   I had to look at the video link posted by Efemera to see what was meant by French dart - in my book it's just moving the dart to a different angle - which you can do on any (bodice) pattern.

Thank you.

UttaRetch

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2021, 16:16:29 PM »
It is the perfectionist in me.  :(  I wish I was not that way because it can take the joy out of hobbies.
I have seen many threads on PR where people are looking to replicate exactly a garment and I usually warn against a 'slavish' copy.  You are so very, very close that I hope you won't let the search for perfection derail you.

I look forward to seeing the big reveal. 

RachelB

Re: question about french darts
« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2021, 16:33:46 PM »
I have seen many threads on PR where people are looking to replicate exactly a garment and I usually warn against a 'slavish' copy.  You are so very, very close that I hope you won't let the search for perfection derail you.

I look forward to seeing the big reveal.

I won't let it derail me.  I think some of it is that even though the fit is almost correct, it looks to me like the darts are just taking up the whole front of the dress.