Pattern Drafting question

[RachelB]

I have had some minor changes in my body since I last sewed.  Formerly, it was the case that all I had to do was take out the fullness in the front armscye and neckline to get a good fit.  Now, it has become more complicated.  I am currently trying to fit a pattern bodice and it has gotten to the point that I am afraid to try on my latest muslin for fear of what the latest fitting issue will be.  I am going to try it on today, though.  This has gotten me to wondering if it would be better if I just learned to draft my own patterns.  For instance, in the future I would like to make this dress in the following link:

https://www.jcrew.com/m/shops/up_to_40_off_wear_now/dresses/tiered-rufflesleeve-cotton-poplin-dress/MP691?color_name=sapphire

I haven't found an exact pattern for this, but I have found two that I could frankenpattern together, with some adjustment to the neckline.  It seems like it would be less of a hassle to just draft it from scratch. If I invest in something like the Lutterloh system, would I be able to draft a dress like the one in the link.  I would love to be able to examine a dress and draft to fit me.

[Ohsewsimple]

@RachelB there are many different pattern drafting systems.  I have an old Lutterloh one myself. 
But whatever one you use you still have to have some knowledge.  Any system works on measurements.   But that does not take into account a person’s shape etc.

Having looked at the dress you linked to it looks as if it’s made from straight pieces of fabric.  The tiers certainly are and quite honestly the bodice looks as if it is too with slight shaping for the neck and armholes. 

Patterns don’t generally fit anyone.  They are a starting point.  If you know the alterations you have to make then generally you will have to do that each time before starting a project.  Learning pattern cutting is a useful skill but takes time to learn and a decent teacher if you can find one.  They’re a bit thin on the ground over here! 

[RachelB]

@RachelB there are many different pattern drafting systems.  I have an old Lutterloh one myself. 
But whatever one you use you still have to have some knowledge.  Any system works on measurements.   But that does not take into account a person’s shape etc.

Having looked at the dress you linked to it looks as if it’s made from straight pieces of fabric.  The tiers certainly are and quite honestly the bodice looks as if it is too with slight shaping for the neck and armholes. 

Patterns don’t generally fit anyone.  They are a starting point.  If you know the alterations you have to make then generally you will have to do that each time before starting a project.  Learning pattern cutting is a useful skill but takes time to learn and a decent teacher if you can find one.  They’re a bit thin on the ground over here!

@Ohsewsimple  Thank you.  I was afraid it was not a magic fix all. 

[Efemera]

Drafting your own blocks will certainly give you an idea of your body shape and the skills to alter ready made patterns

[RachelB]

Drafting your own blocks will certainly give you an idea of your body shape and the skills to alter ready made patterns

@Efemera  thank you.

[BrendaP]

Having looked at the dress you linked to it looks as if it’s made from straight pieces of fabric.  The tiers certainly are and quite honestly the bodice looks as if it is too with slight shaping for the neck and armholes. 

I agree, there really is minimal shaping in that dress, all the shaping is done with gathers, not a dart anywhere,  Although if you look very carefully the back bodice at the waistline has a very slight upwards/concave curve and the front bodice has a downwards/convex curve, but that's only noticeable because of the gingham fabric.  The tiers are cut straight on grain.

[UttaRetch]

Sorry @RachelB, but pattern drafting is a steep learning curve requiring as many fit increments as you are currently experiencing with your toile. 

[HenriettaMaria]

My experience of pattern drafting is that it's easy to do on someone else but much harder to do on yourself, beginning with accurate measurement.  I learned at evening class, about 30 years ago, where we paired up for measuring and basic block drafting, so I'd recommend using a buddy to help - someone who has some interest in sewing/crafting.

In terms of how to go about learning the skill, it depends on what kind of learner you are - are you the sort of person who can pick up skills direct from texts or are you, like me, more 'monkey see, monkey do'?  If you can self-teach from books, there are many, of which tI have are Winifred Aldrich's 'Metric Pattern Cutting' and 'Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear', and Natalie Bray's 'Dress Pattern Designing', 'More Dress Pattern Designing' and 'Dress Fitting'.  The Bray ones date from 60 or 70 years ago but are still in print, which shows you how well-thought-of they are!

If you think you need someone to teach you and you don't have any personal contacts who might, see if any of the colleges in your area do textiles and fashion, in which case approach them about extra-curricular classes.

[RachelB]

Sorry @RachelB, but pattern drafting is a steep learning curve requiring as many fit increments as you are currently experiencing with your toile.

@UttaRetch I was afraid so.  I looked at the Lutterloh system and it seems that just measuring hip and bust to get a good fit is too good to be true.  On the positive side, I think I have my muslin for my dress almost right.    I tried it on last night and had to let out the side seams just little.  There is a little fitting to be done in the back bodice, but it does not look totally terrible.

[RachelB]

My experience of pattern drafting is that it's easy to do on someone else but much harder to do on yourself, beginning with accurate measurement.  I learned at evening class, about 30 years ago, where we paired up for measuring and basic block drafting, so I'd recommend using a buddy to help - someone who has some interest in sewing/crafting.

In terms of how to go about learning the skill, it depends on what kind of learner you are - are you the sort of person who can pick up skills direct from texts or are you, like me, more 'monkey see, monkey do'?  If you can self-teach from books, there are many, of which tI have are Winifred Aldrich's 'Metric Pattern Cutting' and 'Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear', and Natalie Bray's 'Dress Pattern Designing', 'More Dress Pattern Designing' and 'Dress Fitting'.  The Bray ones date from 60 or 70 years ago but are still in print, which shows you how well-thought-of they are!

If you think you need someone to teach you and you don't have any personal contacts who might, see if any of the colleges in your area do textiles and fashion, in which case approach them about extra-curricular classes.

@HenriettaMaria Thank you so much for the information.

[jen]

As others have said, initially drafting doesn’t let you off the fitting hook. You draft a block to your personal measurements, but then need to sew it up in calico, fit it ( don’t overfit!) and transfer any alterations back to the block. After this stage, which can be slow and tedious if you don’t have a fitting buddy, you have the means to draft styles and know that they will fit, usually without further fitting hours.
What drafting doesn’t do is guarantee that you will be pleased with every aspect of the design, so you may still find yourself modifying your first stab at a pattern. That bit has been done for you when you buy a pattern. For example, how much gathering in the layers? All of the bust dart used in neck gathers, or just some of it? How deep and in what proportions the tiers.
To start drafting you need basic maths and good accuracy and an eye for shapes. I used to think it was a walk in the park until in teaching it I met students who couldn’t eyeball lines and shapes or recognise a right angle when they saw it, and some who couldn’t figure how an asymmetric line had to go as it wrapped round the body.
I would encourage anyone to learn drafting because I find fitting other people’s patterns a PITA, but many brilliant dressmakers get along just fine and never want to embark on that journey.

[UttaRetch]

I have a few pattern drafting books.  I have looked at the illustrations and the maths involved and decided I am not up to drafting a bodic block.  I get a reasonably good fit if I choose a pattern with cup sizes and Vogues are good for me.

[RachelB]

@UttaRetch @jen reading your responses and others has made me decide that it is more than I want to take on.  I will just stick with adjusting patterns.

[Ohsewsimple]

@RachelB are you a beginner dressmaker?
If so I think you’re right.  You need to sew and get some things made and enjoy wearing them.  When I started pattern cutting donkey years ago we had a couple of people in class who hadn’t got a clue.  It made it difficult for the rest of us to get on with anything.  I was a bit annoyed that they were told the course would be fine for them when it clearly wasn’t.  You need some understanding of patterns and basic dressmaking to start with.

[RachelB]

@Ohsewsimple  I have been sewing for about 22 years, but I have never had the fitting issues I am having now.   I am the same size and all my clothes fit the same, except that some of my dresses are slightly tight in the chest due to me having had reconstruction surgery because of a mastectomy.  My chest is 2 cup sizes larger.  It just turned out that way because of the way the implants are sit, but I am happy with it.  I went from a 34B to a 34 D.  However, before this, all I had to do to a pattern was take out the gaping at the neckline and front armscye, and that was all I needed.  I did not have to worry about understanding fit.  I am just getting so frustrated with a muslin(toile?) I am trying to fit to me.  I fix one problem and another one crops up. I am trying to make myself a knockoff of a Vampire's Wife dress: https://thewebster.us/shop/the-falconetti-dress.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3vrTv4Xv7wIVirbICh31fQBmEAkYAyABEgIiKfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here is my 5th muslin of it: 
Front: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51102139948/in/dateposted-public/
back: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51102140488/in/dateposted-public/
left side: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51103006475/in/dateposted-public/
right side: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51101898341/in/dateposted-public/

It is overfitted.  The bodice feels a little tight. I am on another sewing forum, too, and have been advised to try it on with heels to see if that will "fix" the lower back waist line and high front hemline.  If not, I will pinch out the folds on the lower back with a dart that goes to nothing at the side seams. I need to lower the height of the armscye under the arm, and let out the side seams for some breathing room. Also, I need to shorten all the darts.    I noticed that there is some looseness under the bust.  in this picture of the Duchess of Cambridge wearing the dress in a different fabric, there is no looseness between those front darts under the bust: https://unitedkingdom-grlk5lagedl.stackpathdns.com/production/uk/images/1583485937763815-Kate-Middleton-Wears-Vampire-Wife-in-Ireland.jpg?w=1920&h=800&fit=clip&crop=faces&auto=%5B%22format%22%2C%20%22compress%22%5D&cs=srgb
But it was pointed out to me that the inspiration dress has one set of darts coming from the side seams up to the bust (french darts?).  Is that the problem with the looseness under bust?  Do I need the "french" darts instead of the bust & waist darts?
  I am going to make those changes that were suggested, but I am getting so frustrated because this is my 5th muslin.   This is more info than you asked for  but do you have any suggestions?