The Sewing Place

Pattern Drafting question

RachelB

Re: Pattern Drafting question
« Reply #30 on: April 09, 2021, 17:03:31 PM »
@RachelB the book @Elnnina recommended is excellent for a first fitting book.  I have lots but that one is easy to follow.  Haven’t seen the DVD but I would imagine it’s very good to see the techniques in action so you can follow it. 

As far as pattern sizing is concerned I know the advice from Palmer/Pletsch is to substitute your chest  or high bust measurement for the full bust.  So your 34” high bust would then mean using the size 12.  Personally I don’t work quite that way because I can’t quite see the logic.  If a pattern is designed to fit a high bust of 32” then it’s designed to fit a 32”.  And the neck, armhole, shoulders etc etc are all based around that measurement.  But it is entirely up to you.  I know lots of people work that way.  But if I was making a block for myself I would be using my chest measurement. 
Another way to choose patterns is to look at the finished width of the garment.  It is up to you how close fitting you want your garment to be.  But you do have to bear in mind the shoulder, neck, armhole widths etc.    So do I suggest you stay with the 12?   Hard to say.  But if you moved up to the neXt size you may not have to do the FBA because there is only 2” difference.  You would probably not need to mess with the armhole as that would already have more room. 

One thing I would like to mention.  When sewing a toile make sure the neckline has a seam allowance on.  Staystitch on the seamline to prevent it stretching.  Then clip into the seamline so it can be folded out of the way or at least so it doesn’t choke you! :)
@Ohsewsimple thank you so much!  I am going to stick with the 12 for right now and do the FBA. Then I am going to see what else I need to do.  If I keep having problems I may try the size 14.

RachelB

Re: Pattern Drafting question
« Reply #31 on: April 09, 2021, 17:04:54 PM »
The patterns to look for are 'amazing fit'.  If you go to Jaycotts site and put that in the search box, you get a good range.  I have a different skirt pattern that is not there so probably out of print but look on ebay too.(UK only because of customs!)  You can also search for 'cup sizes'. Several companies do patterns with different cup sizes included.  Don't go by bra cup size, look at the measurement instructions for them.
@toileandtrouble Thank you.  I have heard of "amazing fit', but I have never used one.  I will look at them.