The Sewing Place

Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff

RachelB

Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« on: April 12, 2021, 02:34:11 AM »
Here are my pictures of my latest attempt at my Vampire's Wife knockoff dress:
front: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51110543981/in/dateposted-public/
back: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51110543066/in/dateposted-public/
right side: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51110293479/in/dateposted-public/
left side: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51110294029/in/dateposted-public/
Here is the inspiration picture: https://thewebster.us/shop/the-falconetti-dress.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwvMqDBhB8EiwA2iSmPPO5bt1f6_jte9s0B22j6T6EuoIs1XDHCaprpYaaM92ZAAiVmkpEMxoCSIIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I did a 1.5 inch FBA, lowered the armscye underneath the arm by 1/2" from the amount I had raised it before, took out the fullness from the neck and front armscye, and raised the waistline by 3/8". There is some weirdness going on in the fit of the right back bodice and on right front bodice that is not happening on the left front and back bodices. I don't know what it is or what is causing it. I can't imagine why this is happening on the right but not on the left. This is discouraging. After all of this, I still like the fit of my first bodice the best, even if it was not perfect. I just wish I had gotten a picture of the back of it. I feel like at this point that I need to take a step back and take a breath. It gets a little better and then it gets a little worse.
Here are pics of my first bodice.  This has the darts I took to get rid of neckline and armscye gaping so that is reason for all the darts on the front.  When I made the changes on the pattern pieces for my second bodice, I accidentally used fabric with a little stretch and it turned out horrible.  Instead of remaking it out of the same type fabric, I started making more changes.

first bodice front: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51009920962/in/dateposted-public/
upclose of front bodice: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51009919517/in/dateposted-public/

I did not get a picture of the back.  I would appreciate any suggestions.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2021, 02:36:33 AM by RachelB »

Efemera

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2021, 08:47:58 AM »
The only thing I would say is that the back skirt darts look like the need releasing a little ..its pulling and looks a little tight over your bum which is stopping the skirt falling and is wrinkling slightly. The front bodice... the fullness of your bust is under the dart/ style line, I would lower this about an inch.
It’s a pain as you alter one thing it affects another.

b15erk

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2021, 11:21:21 AM »
I agree with @Efemera , the back just needs s few tweaks.  The front is pretty much there though, and the fit looks good.

Best to sort it at the toile stage, it will save many tears...  (ask me how I know!)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2021, 12:44:51 PM »
Agree with @Efemera that the back looks a bit tight and darting needs altering.
The waistline seems to be rising slightly at the front too. 

As for the fit on the right side being different to the left, that is not unusual.  We aren’t necessarily symmetric.  Often we will have one shoulder or hip higher than the other which would cause problems.  In that situation you would need a full front and a full back pattern instead of a half pattern.
When doing alterations, try one at a time.  Each one you adjust will cause an effect elsewhere and if you do several at once you won’t know what the problem was and can create new ones. 


RachelB

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2021, 15:42:56 PM »
@Efemera @b15erk @Ohsewsimple thank you. Do you know how I should fix the right back issues?

coffeeandcake

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2021, 20:39:59 PM »
@RachelB From the back view the waist appears to be a bit higher on the right side next to where your right elbow is. Do one adjustment at a time.
I would release the darts a bit to start with as Efemera said. This will take some the tightness out across your bum and allow the back of the dress to hang better. You should be able to do this on your existing toile.
I have one shoulder that is lower than the other following an injury so I sew each shoulder differently. If I make a garment that doesn't have an actual shoulder seam I take a small wedge out of the right hand side on the pattern. It's a bit of faffing around but gives a better fit. If I was having the issue you are regarding the right hand side of your dress I might try something along the same lines. However it does look as though once you make it a little less snugly fitting you may find the issue disappears

RachelB

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2021, 21:09:06 PM »
 @coffeeandcake Thank you.  I figured out that I accidentally traced a size 14 front bodice instead of a size 12.  Could that be some of the problem?

Ohsewsimple

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2021, 22:06:36 PM »
@RachelB if you have two different sizes, how have you got the seams to match up?    :thinking:

I think the first thing to do is release the darts as suggested.  I would even go as far as to suggest ripping the side seams open below the waist, letting it all relax and see what happens.  I’ve done this with my students before and it was quite a revelation.  If there is a gap it tells you it needs filling with fabric and that the original was too tight.  Can you sit down in it? 

RachelB

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2021, 00:23:56 AM »
@Ohsewsimple I haven't tried sitting in it, but now I know why I could not get my seams to match.  When I was attaching the bodices to the skirt, the top was wider than the skirt, and now I know why  :facepalm:  I am going to step back for a few days and I will probably just start completely over and make the dress exactly as it is from the pattern.  Then I am going to fix one thing at at time and see what happens.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2021, 00:25:27 AM by RachelB »

Catllar

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #9 on: April 13, 2021, 08:45:08 AM »
Great Idea @RachelB . Sometimes stepping back is  the way to go.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

RachelB

Re: Latest muslin of my Vampire's Wife dress knockoff
« Reply #10 on: April 13, 2021, 19:37:57 PM »
Great Idea @RachelB . Sometimes stepping back is  the way to go.

@Catllar  I think it will help me get perspective.  I have made so many pattern alterations that my mind is swimming. After taking time away from it,  I think I am going to make the dress exactly from the pattern and make one alteration at the time and see how that alteration affects the rest of the dress.  That was suggested to me, and it sounds like a great thing to do.