The Sewing Place

Fitting shoulders

Tiggy

Fitting shoulders
« on: May 11, 2021, 17:23:56 PM »
My shoulders are set back.  I thank my Dad for all those teenage years of being told to stand up straight!  So the shoulder seams of shirts and jackets don’t actually sit on me where they are supposed to.  They are forward of my shoulder.  If I roll the seam back, will this affect the way a sleeve head will fit?  I have a summer jacket to make and don’t want to spoil it.
Pfaff Creative 4.5 ,  Babylock Gloria
Janome 3800QE

Ploshkin

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2021, 18:22:14 PM »
Thatse the opposite of the most commpn ( these days)  alteration i.e. forward shoukder from too much looking down at screens.  There is probably a lot of information out there on fitting sleeves for this adjustment which would help you in doing it the other way.  It does alter the shape of the sleeve head.
When I made DH a jacket I had to make some major adjustments around the sleeve heads to account for his rounded back / forward shoulder and very narrow back.  I honestly can't recall what I did but I did most of the fitting on him and it turned out ok.
Life's too short for ironing.

Efemera

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2021, 18:22:46 PM »
No.. just put the sleeve in as usual but match the centre top of the sleeve head with the new shoulder seam.

Ploshkin

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2021, 18:25:11 PM »
Depending on the amount surely that could affect the way the sleeve hangs.
Life's too short for ironing.

Tiggy

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2021, 19:12:46 PM »
Depending on the amount surely that could affect the way the sleeve hangs.

That’s what I wondered
Pfaff Creative 4.5 ,  Babylock Gloria
Janome 3800QE

Esme866

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2021, 04:44:26 AM »
Shifting the shoulder point and rotating the sleeve can affect the hang.

I'll see what I can find.

Esme866

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2021, 05:23:30 AM »
Here's a link from movsd.com:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=934.0

The response from peterle discusses possible effects on the back and neck by moving the shoulder seam towards the back.

Also from same site:

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=885.0

Your question is a VERY legitimate one. Most people answering these questions on movsd.com are professional tailors - so you can see there is no easy answer.

You may need to sign up to navigate the pages. They're a good group!
« Last Edit: May 12, 2021, 05:33:13 AM by Esme866 »

Tiggy

Re: Fitting shoulders
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2021, 16:41:57 PM »
Thank you for that.  Much appreciated  :thumbsup:
Pfaff Creative 4.5 ,  Babylock Gloria
Janome 3800QE