Pietra Pants and Shorts

[Lemon Syllabub]

Aghhh.

I was wondering if anyone else has tried these?

I’ve read lots of positive reviews, the only criticism seemed to be they run big and some people find the crotch too low.

After struggling with the shorts version of these for 2 days I’ve come to the conclusion I’m the wrong shape for this pattern draft! 

The front is made up of panels that you can tweek to fit. I used a Closet Core size 8 as the starting point for my toile.
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Not sure whether it camouflages or emphasises my rolls of chubby tummy (small hips, big tum!) but if this plus the slightly low crotch were the only niggles I wouldn’t mind.

It’s the back that I can’t get to work for my shape. It’s your basic ‘ 2 legs’ with a waistband for the elastic. They are designed to be very high waisted. The back pattern pieces just go straight up so the extremely generous amount of fabric over your hips is the same width as that for the smallest part of my torso! That’s a lot of gathered fabric! Unfortunately I wasn’t blessed with a bootylicious butt to pad out all of the excess ‘sticky out’ folds and the shorts looked terrible on me! 

I unpicked the side seams and traced the smallest size I could onto the back pieces and resewed them to get rid of the swamping amounts of ease. As you can see they still look awful and extremely unflattering AND of course now the side seams are slightly off balance.   
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So what next? I could redraw the back pattern pieces at the sides and centre seam so the fabric tapers above my hips? Or I could add darts to the back and a side zip?…. But then again if I’m going to start adding darts and zips then I think I may prefer to use a pattern that has been drafted to give a closer fit before I start attempting to tweek It?

The other alternative would be to use a pattern for elasticated waist trousers that I know fit and that sit on or just below my natural waist and redraft its front pieces to have similar design lines as the Pietra Pants????

What would you lovely people do?

[Ohsewsimple]

If you’ve got a pants pattern that works for you I’d use it.  There’s nothing particularly special about this pattern. 

[Efemera]

I was going to say add darts to get rid of some of the excess.

[Lemon Syllabub]

@Ohsewsimple I really liked the 'folded over' pocket design.... I do like pockets. This would have been my first pair of trousers that aren't pyjamas! I am on the look out for my very own comfy TNT trouser pattern which unfortunately I don't think is going to be this one. 

@Efemera I found this  (My new favourite youtube channel!)
She lowered the waistband on her shorts..... a great way of literally cutting off the excess!   

[Esme866]

I actually started making my own clothes at age 13 because I had to have trousers with a short rise. Until my 30's, no matter what pattern I used, I folded one full inch out of both the front and back rise. Even with all the weight I've gained, I'd have to pull that much out of this pattern.

Without side views of the shorts, it's hard to say what changes would need to be made, but you'd definitely need darts in the back to do away with the "bubble butt" syndrome. While you may think you have a tummy issue (I certainly can't see it!), the "bubble butt" occurs on any female with a small waist at the back compared to hips when dealing with a woven fabric. Anything with an elastic waist looked like that on me from behind back then. (I know because my Mom made a point of informing me repeatedly if I wore an elastic waist.)

I'd use a pattern that already fits and redraft the fronts. Those pockets are a breeze I've added them to pants and jackets many times. I like to use a light interfacing on the upper edge facings of the pockets to maintain a crisp definition.

[Puzzler]

I recently discovered that YouTube channel and have watched her five part series on fitting trousers. These are the loose-fit type trousers that you would make out of drapey fabric for summer. I ended up buying the Free Range Slacks pattern by Sew House Seven. Karina is a great enabler so beware! 

I like the idea of a flat front waist but if all the elastic is in the back, it’s going to bunch up. If I wanted elastic at the waist but not the whole waist, I would personally go with side elastic or elastic round the waist apart from a portion of the front.

Useful TNT trouser patterns for me have been by Style Arc. Even though drafted with the pear shaped body in mind, they still suit my apple shape with tweaks. I decided to give the above pattern a go and will be making the more fitted leg version.

[Bodgeitandscarper]

i gave up making trousers!  I've done them in the past very successfully, but now I'm even fatter, I just can't be bothered!

I only really wear jeans or denim shorts anyway, and if I order enough different ones, I eventually find some that fit - this dratted fashion for high waist is a pain though, I can only wear a low waist.

[Ohsewsimple]

@Lemon Syllabub ive just had another look at the website.  The elastic is sewn over after being inserted. That will flatten the elastic somewhat and make it look neater.  Also, I assume up your toile is made in a crisp fabric.  If these were made in a soft drapey fabric the gathers would appear different. 

I agree with @Puzzler about elastic at the sides.  It’s quite a neat solution.  I’ve made several pairs like that. 

[Helen M]

I was just going to suggest Style Arc pants patterns but @Puzzler beat me to it. I found the Barb to be a good one.

[Nevis5]

I agree @Bodgeitandscarper  about the high waists.  They are awful on me and I'm equally annoyed about the fashion for 'ankle grazers' . Every pair of trousers I ever bought were ankle grazers on me with my silly long legs, I certainly don't want to buy them again.  Grr.

The bunchy back is the reason I haven't bought the Pietra pants pattern, @Lemon Syllabub  - I know they are very popular but every pair I saw online seemed to have extra fabric there.  I don't need to look like I'm wearing a baby's nappy so I've stuck to my favourite elasticated waist pattern which has similar lines - the Jalie Pull on Pants pattern.  The waist is elasticated all round but it doesn't have the excessive fabric that the Pietra has.

Good luck! x

[b15erk]

Another vote here for StyleArc Barb.  I use it for all sorts.  Shorts, pyjamas, and smart slim trousers - that would be the trousers, not me!

I also like the Jalie Eleonore Jeans pattern which is excellent value, and comes in multiple sizes.

On the whole, I'm not a fan of back waist elastic, but you can alter it to be on the sides as has been suggested.

Jessie

[Lemon Syllabub]

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I now have a list of trouser patterns to check out. :thumbsup:

And I would never have thought of using elastic in the sides. That's a really clever solution.

The fabric I used for the toile is a really soft chambray I had left over from making my PJ bottoms. It does have some weight to it but it isn't as stiff as it looks in my photo.

The bunchy back is the reason I haven't bought the Pietra pants pattern, @Lemon Syllabub  - I know they are very popular but every pair I saw online seemed to have extra fabric there.

@Nevis5 And how stupid am I for not noticing? 

The good thing about attempting to sew this pattern is I've now realised the importance of looking at the b***** line drawing! Just look at the back view. 
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The pattern sits well over and inch higher than my natural waist and as for my bottom .. well, let's just say it isn't as high as it used to be. 
There are quite a few VERY flat inches between it and my waist let alone it and an extra inch and a bit above my waist!
I think you need to be either voluptuous or have Amazonian glutes to do this pattern any justice!
Neither of which describes me. 

I am of course a glutton for punishment and I've spent the last few hours playing about again with my toile. I've lowered the waistline and recut the back pieces. I've eliminated the excess bulk but well.....
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I'm off to have a gin and do some surfing for trouser patterns.   

Thanks again for your help.
x

[Ohsewsimple]

@Lemon Syllabub I don’t  think the wide elastic helps.   

[Nevis5]

I'm no pattern maker but could you somehow take out some of the fullness using darts? and maybe reducing the bulk (take in the side seams at the back a bit) - measure your elastic at stretch to see how little you could get away with?  Dunno if that would work?

[Esme866]

Actually, now that I no longer actually have a waist, and have accepted that To be the case from here on, (I think my waist is 2" smaller than my hips) I have to have elastic involved somehow with all of my pants, else they fall off! Jean's are worn with elastic belts.

In making my own trousers I have learned to make what was once called a "Daks waistband" for men. It was popular in the 60's or 70's. I even have a picture of Sean Connery wearing that style of trouser. If I need to dress up, I feel like an absolute schlep wearing an elastic waist. The Daks waistband looks smooth but actually has a piece of elastic hidden in the center back waistband, resulting in a smooth look all the way around. There are buttons sewn on the inside of both sides of the trouser waistband and tabs with buttonholes sewn to each end of the elastic which is about 7" long and stitched in place down the center back of the waistband. The waistband is made with a tunnel/casing for the elastic to pass thru.

It's a lot of work for casual shorts and such, but well worth the effort for nicer trousers.