Oh no, another bloke!

[Renegade Sewist]

Welcome! If you decide to make lots of t-shirts and other knits you'll want to eventually get an overlocker. There are several that are quite good at under $200 USD. Many more and fancier for a whole lot more.

When I decided to make a t-shirt I took a class. We could bring our sewing machine or overlocker. I'm the only one who brought the overlocker. She would show us a step, like sewing in the sleeves and I was finished with both before they finished the first one. It's much quicker, gives you that nice finished RTW look, wears well and is fun. I use a twin needle on my sewing machine for the hems. I've never sewn enough knits to justify the cost of a cover stitch machine to myself. I think in terms of cost per usage, cost per finished item or cost per diem.

[charley]

Hello and welcome from me too. Love your story.

[datcat23]

Sadly, Dad is no longer with us either, so I’m hanging on to it.

As he got older he started shrinking but liked his grey Craghopper Kiwi trousers (lightweight poly-cotton outdoor trousers). And I used to take them up for him in the legs so that he didn’t trip over. It was particularly badly done mainly because they tapered to the bottom and I when I turned them up inside the new hem material was a smaller diameter than the material I had to stitch it to - and it didn’t stretch! Still don’t know how to cope with that situation.

Welcome Andy, as others have said, this is a welcoming place, full of supporters and enablers.

For your hemming issue.  Cut the trousers off at the length you want plus 1/2inch for seam allowance.  Use a similar fabric from your stash (you know that sewists are required to have a stash don't you?   ) , cut a facing the exact shape as the bottom of your trousers (two pieces if you want, then sew together to make a tube).  Then you match up the bottom edge of the legs, and the shorter edge of the facing, right sides together, stitch around the leg hole with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  Turn the facing to the inside of the leg, fold in the edge, and then handstitch or machine sew the edge.  Because your facing is shaped the same as the trouser leg, your facing should lay flat on the inside of the trouser leg, and give a nice finish.  Remember to press seams as you go. 

[BrendaP]

Hi @Andymat  welcome to TSP - as you have gathered we are a great bunch of enablers.  You need a regular lockstitch sewing machine (which you have) for sewing woven fabrics and an overlocker for sewing knitted jersey fabrics.  Specialist machines like coverstitchers, blind hemmers etc are an optional extra, you will probably do much better spending the £££ that they cost on more fabric.  As has already been pointed out, proper sewists need a stash of fabric to dip into.

[Andymat]

Welcome Andy, as others have said, this is a welcoming place, full of supporters and enablers.

For your hemming issue.  Cut the trousers off at the length you want plus 1/2inch for seam allowance.  Use a similar fabric from your stash (you know that sewists are required to have a stash don't you?   ) , cut a facing the exact shape as the bottom of your trousers (two pieces if you want, then sew together to make a tube).  Then you match up the bottom edge of the legs, and the shorter edge of the facing, right sides together, stitch around the leg hole with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  Turn the facing to the inside of the leg, fold in the edge, and then handstitch or machine sew the edge.  Because your facing is shaped the same as the trouser leg, your facing should lay flat on the inside of the trouser leg, and give a nice finish.  Remember to press seams as you go.

OK - that sounds sensible. I suppose I could have used the material I cut off the bottom - would have had to be 2 pieces sewn together as you say but there was enough cut off. I have the remains in "my stash" box still and it's 4 years ago since I did his last pair.

Thanks for the explanation. Next time I have that issue, I know what to do.

[Andymat]

Thanks to @Renegade Sewist   and @BrendaP for your thoughts. I do not think I will be spending money on an overlocker any time soon. I have found that I can make do with all the stretch stitches I might need using the machine I have as it has the top feed and various overlockish looking stitches. It might not look exactly like the shop bought ones but I would need to have a very strong need for something my current machine could not do before I invested in another machine.

If I was doing this commercially, I can see an overlocker would be essential and pay pack quickly.

I have yet to play with the programming ability of the Pfaff!

[Esme866]

Hello Andy!

Glad to have you here and I am IMPRESSED with the t-shirts. Knits can be more difficult to manipulate than wovens.

When I was younger, sweaters (jumpers?) and t-shirts were the only clothing I could buy that would fit so I didn't have much need for sewing knits - had to make everything else. I've never used an over locker as a good machine with stretch stitches will do the job. Pressed for space I wouldn't bother with another machine.

I can no longer buy t-shirts that fit. And I was just about to start to use the over locker I received as a gift 20 years ago when covid hit. Hopefully I'll get back to it soon.

Unless you're sewing a ton of knits, I agree it is hard to justify the expenditure, plus, as I am fanatical about matching thread (long story) I don't relish rethreading the thing. Others use gray thread for everything, but I am so color conscious it would drive me bonkers every time I put a garment on.

[datcat23]

I do agree that specialised machines (ie overlocker or coverstitch) are a luxury, and not necessary to produce a quality product. 

A note on stretch stitches (sometimes call lightening stitch).  These most definitely are for working on stretch/knit fabrics, but they aren't essential for all seams.  Mostly you would use them for seams that are under strain ...... where clothes are tight fitting etc.  I only ever use the stretch stitch when making underwear.  When I make tshirts, or other knit items, me being older, and relatively lush in the figure department,  I don't particularly like tight fitting clothes.  So for the side seams, sleeves etc, I will use a straight stitch.  I may use a very narrow zigzag when attaching a neckband or sleeve cuff, and as others have said, a twin needle on a regular machine gives a good hem finish that is also slightly stretchy.

But the main reason to only use lightening stitch when you absolutely have to ...... is because its an absolute toad to unpick.   

[Esme866]

I actually regularly use the stretch stitch on woven shirts, jackets and trousers. I sew underarm seams  and the curved part of the back rise with a stretch stitch. However like @datcat23 says, they are a "toad to unpick" - so only after I'm certain my pattern is TNT! :thumbsup:

[Gernella]

Not sure where the next machine will go. I have to clear the dining table every time I want to use my current one. Perhaps I will need to move to a bigger house.

You see empire building already @Andymat .  Mistakes, the building blocks of learning.

[realale]

Welcome @Andymat, those are lovely shirts for a first attempt.

I had that Pfaff machine from new and actually cried when the motherboard failed and it couldn't be repaired - it was well over 20 years old at the time and had seen some hard service so it owed me nothing - I've had lovely machines since but none I've loved as much as that machine.

As to an overlocker, I've had my current one for nearly 30 years and use it often but I managed for so many years without one so I agree it isn't necessary but it is useful! 

[Kenora]

A warm welcome from me too @Andymat  . 

[Catllar]

Welcome from me too. Stash very important, overlocker less so, but honestly, once you have one your knits willgo together so fast! Great t-shirts by the way!

[Surest1tch]

Ok @Andymat, what's up with being another bloke, look at all the blokes who've been part of the sewists who've inspired many of us, YSL, Gucci, Norman Hartnell and loads more spring to mind. It sounds to me like you're doing pretty well especially as you jumped in at the deep end with repairs, quite often they are worse than making something from scratch  :thumbsup:. Keep it up and pop in often won't you  .

[Sewbusy]

Hello Andy and welcome to the wonderful world that is sewing!

Your Pfaff may be an older machine but as already said on here older machines can be great.

There is so much help on here regarding all aspects of sewing however I came across an excellent Facebook Group when I was searching for help with my older Pfaff machine. If you're on Facebook I can recommend joining the Pfaff 1471 - 2170 Group. They are a very helpful and knowledgeable group and because the machine range is so specific and older, I'm sure you'll find the knowledge there is invaluable to help your machine enquiries.

Hope you continue and enjoy your sewing.