The Sewing Place

Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...

Andymat

Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« on: July 15, 2021, 20:57:39 PM »
I have this pattern for a bath robe for my other half (Burda 6740 if you are interested). And I am trying to work out how much material to order.

The first issue is that there are 2 sets of material length requirements: 45ins/114cm and 55ins/140cm which I am guessing is the width of the material. Now my material comes in 150cm widths so hopefully I'll have a bit of extra leeway. Or is the 140cm quoted on the pattern the usable width discounting the edge bits which look a bit scruffy? (selvedge?)

The next problem is the pattern has a little triangle (with nap) on some of the dimensions and a little star (without nap) on others. Is nap the same as grain of the material? If it is without nap does it mean I can orient the material anyway I like?

Does towelling have a grain in the material. If this shows I am being incredibly stupid and all materials have grain, then I would guess that the grain goes parallel with the selvedge edge? This might explain why it seems I need what appears to me, a ridiculous amount of material!

The next problem is that we want to make the medium length gown but with a hood. The only version that does NOT have a hood. So I am going to have to make the long length one and cut it down at the pattern stage which shouldn't cause too much of a problem (famous last words!) although some of the material in the long one is a different colour and we are going to do it in all one colour.

(nearly there - honest)
The next issue is that I am making a Large and if I was to make one in the future for me (says he hopefully) it would probably be Medium. Is it normal to just cut out the size for now and if you need a different size in the future to buy another copy? I suppose if the Medium is fully within the parts of the Large, I wouldn't have an issue and could just cut the large down to a medium - but I'm not sure it all is. Perhaps that needs some thought before I start with my scissors.

The last issue is that our Springer Spaniel Millie is partial to a bit of tissue paper and loves ripping it up. So I am going to have to be careful when I cut it out when she is not around or in a mischievous mood. Wish me luck!

All help welcome as this pattern seems a bit more complicated to the T-shirts I did last. Many thanks.

Ellabella

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2021, 21:45:40 PM »
Others will come along later with more fluent answers than mine, but I can start you off.

140cm is the full width of the fabric, selvedge to selvedge so you should have some  leeway if your fabric is 150cm.

It’s not usually good practice to use the actual selvedge edge.

You’re right about the grain, it is parallel to the selvedge.

The easiest way to think of nap is the texture on the surface of the cloth. Velvet, which has nap won’t match if the pile runs up in one piece and down in another.

Always follow the grain line on the pattern pieces and put them parallel to the selvedge. If a piece is cut on a fold, the fold should be parallel to the selvedge.

If you want to reuse a pattern in the future it’s best to trace off the size you need, keeping the original as a master pattern. It’s a bit of a faff but worth it for patterns you may want to use again.

You can buy dressmakers tracing paper but any paper you can see through can be used. In the past I’ve  used cheap paper table cloths.

For your Burda pattern use View B and simply shorten the body pieces of the pattern to the length of View A before you pin them on your fabric.

The dog, I’m afraid is your problem, I’d just shut her out of the way but that might seem harsh to you.



Andymat

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2021, 22:08:44 PM »
Oh wow - thank you @Ellabella.

That is really helpful. I like the idea of using paper table cloths to trace out the pattern for use from the 'master'.

toileandtrouble

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2021, 22:16:01 PM »
You can use the 140cm fabric requirements for the short gown but need to add some for the hood.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

charley

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2021, 22:17:07 PM »
I always trace patterns, I just write the size that I have traced off onto the tracing paper, along with all other details on the original. I double/triple check to make sure I have missed any important details, for instance, sometimes Burda do not include seam allowance on their patterns, so important to add that too. Good light is essential for tracing, along with keeping the tracing paper in one place while tracing - tinned food/beans/tomatoes etc are good for this too.

Andymat

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2021, 22:42:21 PM »
OK - the pattern pieces do say 1.5cm seam allowances but I will check each piece as I go along. Double/treble checking does seem like a good idea.

If I use the longest version and cut it down to the middle length version I save 0.41m as the front and the back each save me 0.205m. but then I have to add material for the hood. +1.5m.

I think this is becoming clearer! Gradually.

Lachica

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2021, 22:57:44 PM »
I would trace off the L and M on the same piece of tracing paper, cut the L then you can make a M later. Places where the M markings would be cut off when cutting L will need to be folded out of the way though so you might prefer to trace each size separately. I recommend buying Burda tissue paper, it's a lot stronger than paper tablecloth & easier to handle, transparent enough to trace easily with the pattern flat on a table. I've used paper tablecloth in the past but it kept tearing & I had to blue tak both pattern & paper upright on a big window as couldn't see through it otherwise. Seam allowances should be included on envelope patterns (they're not on patterns from Burda magazine). This will be in the instructions. Looking forward to seeing it completed!
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

dolcevita

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2021, 23:00:50 PM »
Watch out for the amount of fabric you need for the hood, as it can be surprisingly large. On a dressing gown it's likely to be a large slouchy hood rather than a small neat one, so try and get an idea of how much fabric is needed at the start.

Lachica

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2021, 23:03:17 PM »
Measure twice, cut once  :D
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

Andymat

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2021, 23:23:45 PM »
Thanks everyone for your input.

@dolcevita Yes - looks like I need 1.5m extra for the hood. The hood is lined although that extra amount is just for the lining and the lapel bits!

Looks like I need to order 5m (strictly 4.79m). And it's beginning to sound expensive - over £60 for the material alone!

Renegade Sewist

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2021, 01:34:35 AM »
Long gone are the days when sewing was dirt cheap and could save you a fortune over normal range clothing. Now the main place you can save is emulating high end boutique clothing and some designer stuff.

Nice fabrics for custom garments are going to often be pricey. However, you get the fun and satisfaction of creating a one off garment that no one else will have. I still remember this fantastic dress I bought in high school, perfect new shoes to go with it. Wore them the next day. Surprise surprise a class mate had done the same thing, even the same shoes. We had 3 classes together and lunch. After being mortified we got a good laugh and started coordinating when we would wear them. People had already thought we looked like sisters so we just went with it.

Little things like that encouraged me to make some of my clothes from an early age.
Hey Bill! Read the manual!  Hehehe.

Esme866

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #11 on: July 16, 2021, 06:33:13 AM »
Just wanted to chime in on the nap situation because some toweling, for instance french terry cloth, can have a nap.

If your fabric has a nap, each pattern piece must be laid out with the tops of each piece in the same direction (ie.  top on the left bottom on the right.) If you goof and cut one piece in an opposite direction, once sewn together, the two pieces will look like the color doesn't match due to how light reflects off of it.

I've even bought cotton/poly twill fabric that had a nap. In almost 50 years of sewing I've messed up and not noticed the nap twice. Thankfully, that was back in the days of cheap fabric.

Keeping the grain straight is also extra important because cutting off grain can cause the same color problem.

But hopefully your first Burda goes better than mine. I bought a jacket pattern that had at least 13-14 pieces. Took forever to cut out. (And I was dealing with a nap - corduroy )After I finished, I decided to read the instructions. First sentence I noticed: "No Seam Allowance Included". Had NEVER encountered that before.

Luckily, there was another 3 yards on the clearance table - 50 cents a yard. $1.50 for nice fabric. I miss those days.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2021, 06:39:35 AM by Esme866 »

Kad

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #12 on: July 16, 2021, 07:23:44 AM »
@Andymat
Before you splash the cash, it's a good idea to set up a mock layout of pattern pieces if you can to check fabric required. I do this often, as all of the people that I sew for ( a very chosen few), are at least 6' tall and consequently need length added to most patterns.

Mark out, on the floor or other suitable surface , the width of your intended fabric and layout the pattern pieces as per the diagram in the instructions. You might find that even keeping to the constraints of grain lines and fabric directionality you don't need as much extra fabric as first you feared. Unles, of course, you're stash- building  :ninja: :devil:
'Jill' of many aspects of sewing, "Mistress" of few.

Efemera

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2021, 07:25:59 AM »
5m sounds a lot of fabric…I’d lay out the pattern pieces on the floor and measure that way.

Sewbusy

Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2021, 07:46:47 AM »
You might consider buying bath sheets and using them instead of buying fabric. Bath sheets vary in size, so check the actual measurements and yes remember allow for the 'banding. 'Something like these Ikea ones on sale atm. Colour options are limited, but Navy and White available.https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/bredasund-bath-sheet-white-20415013/                  Or these, a pair for £7.99 they are slightly smaller than the Ikea ones.https://www.studio.co.uk/shop/winter-warmers/winter-warmers-homeware/winter-warmers-bathroom/pair-of-kingsley-jumbo-towels-07060033?source=TK23&utm_campaign=PLA%20%7C%20Recruitment%20%7C%20Homeware%20%7C%20TK23&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6uaX9_rm8QIVTJ7tCh1KDQCxEAQYASABEgLpdfD_BwE