The Sewing Place

Bias binding with stretch fabric

Bumblebuncher

Bias binding with stretch fabric
« on: September 02, 2021, 13:09:38 PM »
Would you need to cut binding on the bias for stretch fabric?
Surely you cut on the bias for the stretch? Just starting on a top that I want to put binding on and found myself pondering the necessity of cutting it on the bias.
BB
As it neared the top of the grade, it went more slowly. However, it still kept saying, "I—think—I—can, I—think—I—can." It reached the top by drawing on bravery and then went on down the grade, congratulating itself by saying, "I thought I could,  I thought I could."

Ohsewsimple

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2021, 14:07:43 PM »
@Bumblebuncher no you cut it across the fabric.  What are you doing with it?

Bumblebuncher

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2021, 14:17:20 PM »
@Ohsewsimple  Something like this
https://www.boohoo.com/front-split-maxi-top/FZZ75269.html?epik=dj0yJnU9YWZTVE9fUEFFWmZsS3pUZnVBdXZEbTd2YlBMQXl0SDkmcD0wJm49NDIxRnZrU3RFMWJpX2lmVFFJWlZiUSZ0PUFBQUFBR0V3empJ
In silver stretch velvet
I want to bind the neckline to avoid it pulling down with the weight but need some stretch to get it over my head lol
I hope the link works -<
BB
As it neared the top of the grade, it went more slowly. However, it still kept saying, "I—think—I—can, I—think—I—can." It reached the top by drawing on bravery and then went on down the grade, congratulating itself by saying, "I thought I could,  I thought I could."

Ohsewsimple

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2021, 18:10:17 PM »
Oh ok.  If the neck is big enough to go  over your head it’s easy peasy.  But if you need stretch to get it over your head  then you are going to have to use something like zig zag stitch so it gives. 
Or do you have an overlocker? 

BrendaP

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2021, 18:15:44 PM »
@Bumblebuncher no you cut it across the fabric. 

Most stretch fabrics have more stretch across the fabric, and so that means cutting binding across teh fabric.  If it's a rare on that stretches more lengthways then cut the binding length ways.  You need to cut it with negative ease, ie a little bit shorter than the neckline, otherwise it will be all floppy and not sit nicely around your neck.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bumblebuncher

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2021, 19:17:01 PM »
@Ohsewsimple  I do have an overlocker but apparently I don't need stretch to get it over my head as I cut it big enough lol Thanks for the advice, I am happy to know I wasn't being stupid when I had my ponder! I have never bound a stretch neck before, always just overlocked and sew round but wanted it to look a bit neater.
Thanks @BrendaP  I have overlocked round the neck so will attempt to do it as you say, after all, I really don't want a floppy neck as well as floppy everything else  :thumbsup: It does stretch more widthways so will go with that,
As it neared the top of the grade, it went more slowly. However, it still kept saying, "I—think—I—can, I—think—I—can." It reached the top by drawing on bravery and then went on down the grade, congratulating itself by saying, "I thought I could,  I thought I could."

Gernella

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2021, 16:41:23 PM »
If you are using jersey I do this regularly @Bumblebuncher  .  Once you've cut the jersey band and folded, pressed and stitched the ends, you need to stretch as much as you can around the  front neck piece or it will sag when finished.  Last time I made one I never used the coverstitch to finish off but one of the stitches on the new machine, looks fine and it was a stretchy stitch I used. I've never got round to using a double needle. I used to overlock the edges when the band was pinned and machined to the top but it makes it too bulky for the outer stitching.

Does make a good job though doing it this way. 
Stash extension 2024- 6.1 meters
Left at the end of 2023 - 66 meters now (includes fabric found hidden out of sight)  Lining fabric not included

annieeg

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2021, 17:04:22 PM »
This provokes me to post about a distrastrous neckline binding I have recently made :| :| :|
I made a top in demin (Merchant & Mills Top 64)  but didn't want a faced neckline as it would be too bulky so I got over-confident and cut some viscose on what I thought was "on the cross" to make some lightweight bias binding, but it wasn't on the cross. :scream: The neckline is now puckered and the binding turning back on itself.  I'll have to unpick the whole neckline carefully and hope it doesn't pull out of shape.  Then I'll have to buy some wide bias and do it all again :scream:
Should have done it properly in the first place! :headbang:

HenriettaMaria

Re: Bias binding with stretch fabric
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2021, 17:12:40 PM »
I found this a good explanation of binding stretch garments

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits