This is from a 1948 pattern via Reconstructing History (#1507)
Lovely teal mid weight linen. It cut well (although a pain with my silly table) and didn't fray much ( I may have left a lot of seams unfinished or half heartedly zigzagged them). The darts cames up beautifully I think.
I also made up a full slip from a vintage pattern from RH (#1520) and a petticoat from same pattern. The slip was pure cotton with cotton ruffles (not lace) that I had to gather by hand
and I used my handy rolled hem foot to finish the hem of that. A couple of interesting sewing techniques in the bodice to skirt sewing - it wanted lapped seams which actually sewed quite well. The pattern had an option for lace overlay at the top of the bodice but I wasn't feeling it so just did cotton. Used up some cream ribbon I had lying around for the straps.
I used organdy for the petticoat with cotton ruffles (again gathered by hand) and a cotton for the wastband. This one weirdly needing altering at the waist even though it was exactly the same pattern as the slip I made first. Had to cut an inch off the top and reattach the waistband - organdy has zero stretch!
Both of those had lovely invisible zips, though for some reason the slip zip was a bit tricky to get in - needle kept missing the fabric. It's a tiny bit messy but fine for an undergarment.
The dress zip was another thing entirely. The construction was simple enough - bodice and facing, skirt with a couple of gathers, pockets (though they are a tad small), and a waistband belt and matching facing. I really liked how the belt connected the bodice and skirt and thought it looked lovely. However. When I went to sew in the zip I hadn't thought ahead and the waistband section was sooooo thick with probably 6 layers of midweight linen. So it all got a bit stressful as I ended up pulling the facing off the belt at the front edge of the zip, folding them back on themselves and reattaching them (rather than it wrapping around the edge) a little off the seam edge. I also added in a half inch of linen on the back piece so that I could take some strain off the waistband area of the zip. I sewed the invisible zip not so invisible around the wasitband because otherwise I just couldn't get it to do up bast the bulk, even though it fit beautifully. So now it's a tad messy under the arm but oh well. If I make it again out of similar linen I'll do the belt waistband change and also flare the bottom of the bodice out a little I think at the zip side.
I also made the cape which I love. Just need to sew the buttonholes. I'm not entirely sure what I can do to sort the line of the darts at the shoulder, though I imagine a press on a shaped ham would fix it (don't have one though!). It doesn't look too bad when it's on though.
Below are some pics (sorry not many, I should really take more but the room I'm in is so messy and full of junk!)
Pattern image
Cutting out
Pressing bodice darts
Skirt assembly
Bodice fit check
Full slip bodice fit check (had to gather instead of shirr as no more elastic thread!)
Full slip on
Full slip and organdy petticoat on
Final dress
Final dress showing off petticoats
Cape
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