Edited question – machine for heavy fabrics

[badgermat]

Currently I'm using a Bernette B33, which while a bit limited is pretty good with heavy fabric (250gsm linen, tweed, even denim if I don't go mad), which is important to me.

But I'd really like some more stitches (decent stretch options and a couple more buttonholes – keyhole in particular).

So, what should I be looking at to do this. Price, around £500ish, similar to the Janome 740DC or Bernette B38.

Thanks.

[Esme866]

You're asking a lot of one machine. Even in an industrial setting, those functions would take several machines.

A "heavy duty" stretch stitch is a bit odd. How often is this needed? My 30 year old Janome would easily handle two layers of any stretch fabric I've ever encountered.

If you are looking for a good reliable straight stitch - and you're not running a business - I think you might be happy with a good vintage machine, something as basic as a Singer 15-90 or 91. Straight stitch only machines sew a true straight stitch unlike most zig zag capable machines. Vintage machines can also be used with a buttonholer to get a high quality result.

I think the only way to find an answer for a new machine to handle the heavier fabrics you sew regularly, would be to take numerous fabric samples with you and try them for yourself in a specialty shop - though I've no idea what your budget will cover.

I'd truly prepare for finding a vintage machine.

[badgermat]

A "heavy duty" stretch stitch is a bit odd. How often is this needed?

Haha ... so I changed the question and missed that glaring ambiguity. D-oh.

As you have spotted, I don't need stretch stitches for heavy fabric. Just for the odd occasions when I'm making things in more typical fabrics. My current machine has a zig-zag and one stretch overcasting option which I have found a bit limiting when making tee-shirts or toddler-wear.

I do take your point about just testing machines, and about the likelihood of going for a much older machine. Though I suspect a keyhole buttonhole may not be easy to find if I go that route.

Thanks.

[toileandtrouble]

@badgermat The add on buttonholes have keyhole options, well mine did

[BrendaP]

A decent straight stitch vintage machine - Singer 201 are the best, but 99, 66 and 15 are good models too - will takle most things a domestic setting is likely to throw at it, and the vintage buttonholer attchments make excellent buttonholes.  The sort that have interchangeable cams in the make a variety of shaped and keyhole buttonholes.

[Esme866]

@BrendaP I've yet to have the opportunity to try a 201. Other than a donor for my Janome, I've decided a 201 is the only other machine I would like to add to my herd. However it is my understanding that the 201 is excellent for dress and shirt making as it was designed specifically to handle lighter weight fabrics. The 15s were capable of handling goods sewn on the farm, so they are a better workhorse for heavy goods like denim.

@badgermat It sounds like what you need is a good basic machine with more variety of stretch stitches and a separate vintage machine for the heavy stuff. I can understand how great it would be to get all of that in one machine. Since my machine is so old I've researched the prices on machines that people say can do it all, and $1000+ U.S. is out of the question for me.  I decided to look for a 15-90 or 91 knowing it would need to be rewired. Then Mom offered me her treadle which turned out to be a 15-88 - no electrics needed! I decided to get rid of a piece if unnecessary furniture to make room.

BTW- my 90's machine came with a buttonholer that does keyholes also. Actually fun to use, though I'm moving to hand stitched for nicer jackets. The buttonhole attachment is still great for denims and other casuals.

[BrendaP]

@Esme866 My 201k went through 12 layers of denim on a trial, which is more than you would normally find in any garment construction.

[Esme866]

@BrendaP As I've not had an opportunity to use a 201, I'm just repeating what I've read numerous times on the Vintage Singer Group from people truly obsessed with their machines. Plus, around here 201s - rarely available - are usually $200-$275. The 15's - much more common - are now usually $50-$75 & 3-4 times a year, I still run into them for $35-40.

I've also noticed in the past year, an occasional person thinning their herd. When this happens the machines look to be well maintained and the owners are looking for them to go to good homes. Prices are usually $50-$100.  My money is going elsewhere these days. About a month ago a good looking 201, in a nice cabinet, went for $75 and took two weeks to sell!