The Sewing Place

Silk evening gown

Syrinx

Silk evening gown
« on: October 07, 2021, 09:20:25 AM »
Thanks to your lovely help in where to source good quality silk this project is now in "official planning stages"

The pattern McCalls 6838 has just arrived and I'm trying to work out exactly which bits on the fabric required section are relevant before I buy my silk.

I've decided on emerald green silk charmeuse from Beckford silks for the body and the silk organza in the same colour from Beckford too. Unfortunately I'll have to buy a whole bolt of the organza bus hopefully I can either think of something to make with some of the rest or sell it on.

I'll trace and cut the pattern pieces out on Swedish tracing paper and do a bodice toile with that on my tailors form before I order my boning (Sew Curvy!). I think there's some lining required too but not quite sure how much more silk I'll need for that.

Much maths and scribbling of notes to work out exactly what McCalls are calling what so I can figure out how much silk I'll need.

Quite excited but a little scared as I've not done an evening dress before and the silk is expensive so I don't want to muck it up!

What fabric do you suggest a toile bodice is made from? Silk has such a particular hand I'm unsure what the best option is.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Silk evening gown
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2021, 11:38:49 AM »
@Syrinx I think I’d use a drapey type polyester fabric.  It will give some idea of how it drapes. 
Look forward to seeing how this progresses.

Missie

Re: Silk evening gown
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2021, 13:38:04 PM »
As it is a strapless dress, for the bodice I would suggest a medium weight calico.  You will need to have an inner sturdy structure (I can't remember if you are having a laced back or zipped back).  to support the silk and so you need to base the toile on this firm structure (the silk is really incidental to the main structure).  You will also need to test the toile with bones in and cable ties make a good substitute until your proper boning comes through.  For the skirt you could use any floaty type fabric (cheap lining, polyester cotton etc). 

You will also need to give thought to the innards and what materials you are going to use.  I have used tie canvas and lawn (treat as one layer) for strapless dresses which do not require any waist reduction, but if you are going for waist reduction you will need it to be sturdier and would suggest coutil. 

Another thing to think about is, if you are having a zip, I would recommend that you have an inner laced panel.  This will support the weight of the dress and in effect be the fastening for the dress taking the pressure off the zip, which would then be merely to close the fashion fabric.

HTH and looking forward to seeing this.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2021, 13:39:42 PM by Missie »
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

Syrinx

Re: Silk evening gown
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2021, 16:32:26 PM »
I havent had a chance to look at the bodice pattern pieces yet but I was thinking perhaps coutil as the linind depending on the construction. Unfortunately I have no green coutil so another chat with Sew Curvy to see what they've got. (she may also have some good corsetry zips in stock) I've got tonnes of boning knocking about so that's no problem. There's a laced front in the V neckline - not sure if it's a side or back zip (if it is!) so I think next up is cutting the pattern pieces out and having a look at the bodice. I'm somewhat wary as I think it's just a fashion strapless with some boning rather than a proper corseted supporting bodice but I'm sure I can sort something out.

Good shout on the fabric for the skirt toile!

Missie

Re: Silk evening gown
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2021, 16:39:44 PM »
The strength is in the foundation and also the bones.  Bone every seam and you can put extra in the foundation (eg centre of side front) if needed.  It doesn't have to be corset heavy duty to hold up the bodice (although it does if you want to pull in your waist.  I have made solid, well-supported non-moveable bodices with good foundation innards and rigilene (but this is not suitable for pulling in the waist). 

The pattern is unlikely to advise a foundation base but it is so worth it.  It not only provides structure to the bodice but it will also hide the workings (eg boning and boning channels).  Mine tend to be 4 layers outer, 2 of the inner foundation and then lining.
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

BriarRose

Re: Silk evening gown
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2021, 18:30:42 PM »
Which view are you making? (I really have read the posts but am running short on sleep and am maybe just not seeing the answer. Sorry.)
It's just fabric. We can out-think it.

Syrinx

Re: Silk evening gown
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2021, 19:16:46 PM »
The long dress with slit and overskirt (the first illustration version on the pattern in red/orange) it's got a laced V neckline on strapless bodice