The Sewing Place

Bone or underline?

Rosieh

Bone or underline?
« on: October 24, 2021, 15:56:16 PM »
Hello. Looking for guidance. I’m making a flower girl dress for an 8 year old from the now discontinued McCalls 4285 which , rather than having a full gathered skirt attached to the bodice has princess seams and a tapered skirt with a LOT of gathered dress net attached to the lining. The instructions aren’t great so I found some old reviews on a pattern review site and one lady said she had put some light boning in the square neckline to support the weight of the skirt. Is this the best way to go? I wondered if underlining in silk organza may help support the skirt. Also thinking a waist stay may help? The dress is sleeveless and my fabric is satin backed shantung. Any advice gratefully received!

Missie

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2021, 16:24:20 PM »
I don't see how boning the neckline will support any weight in the skirt; at best it will stop the neckline stretching out but not support any weight.  I'm not really understanding the style of the dress (I've looked up the pattern but it isn't matching with your description so I'm not sure i am looking at the correct one).  I don't think that you really need to bone it.  Dress net is not heavy and the weight of the dress will be supported by the shoulders.  I would consider a waist stay and underlining will help with a superior finish.

Rosieh

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2021, 17:33:25 PM »
Thank you. This is the pattern. It scared me a bit that the reviewer had boned the neckline as I didn’t understand exactly why. She said something about the weight pulling the neckline down. I am thinking to go with underlining!

maliw

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2021, 17:46:27 PM »
Nice dress. I would go for a waist stay and underlining but just how much net are you using? The alternative could be a separate underskirt, thats what I did when DD was a bridesmaid (many moons ago).
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

Ohsewsimple

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2021, 18:25:50 PM »
As said, boning the neck won’t support the skirt.   :thinking:  If it was me and the weight of the skirt was pulling the neckline down I’d be adjusting the neckline accordingly.  A waist stay will support the skirt and keep it where it should be.  Underlining won’t do that but will give the garment a nice finish.  It helps prevent show through of seam allowances and supports the fabric.  Hems can be invisible when underlined too. 

Esme866

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2021, 06:56:18 AM »
 Separate under skirt can be problematic with a child (or an old overweight woman like me!) because there isn't enough waist definition to prevent s skirt from sliding on down the hips.

I could see the potential for a very heavy fabric to be problematic, but I would think interfacing and lining should suffice.

CCL

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #6 on: October 25, 2021, 14:43:10 PM »
Nice dress. I would go for a waist stay and underlining but just how much net are you using? The alternative could be a separate underskirt, thats what I did when DD was a bridesmaid (many moons ago).

Second vote for a waist stay.
A hodge podge Flickr record of my sewing project albums here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/albums

charlotte

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2021, 15:19:00 PM »
I would underline with a nice sturdy cotton, rather than silk organza. I think I would probably sew some sew in polyester boning (Rigilene) to to the underlining (assuming it is also lined) - a couple of pieces front and back, along the grainline of the fabric. It won't support the skirt, but it will give it a nice structure.

I don't think I would want to add a waist stay for an eight year old for comfort, but if I did, I would do an elasticated one.

I would be tempted to look at an elasticated waist separate petticoat, instead of attaching the tulle, but do consider her waist definition, as @Esme866 says.
« Last Edit: October 26, 2021, 09:38:22 AM by charlotte »

Missie

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2021, 17:35:03 PM »
Just thinking about this further, if you are concerned about the dress being pulled down, I would attach the tulle to the lining, that way, the outer front will not be pulled down and distorted (although I think this unlikely anyway!).

Rosieh

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2021, 11:36:53 AM »
Thank you Missie - I have started making it now. the skirt panels are huge! I have interlined them with silk organza and the  bodice with a stiff interfacing. I initially tried a light bodice canvas but it was too stiff for the princess seams to lie flat.
This is more a 'gown' than a dress! if it looks ok when I have finished I will send a picture  :embarrassed:
I am going to go with one set of dress net. the pattern calls for 2, but I think she would be poufy enough with one and attach it to the lining as you suggest. I am also going to attach the lining after putting the zip in as the instructions have it attached before putting the zip in. I can imagine disappearing behind a cloud of peach dress net if I tried to do this!

Missie

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2021, 12:20:47 PM »
I initially tried a light bodice canvas but it was too stiff for the princess seams to lie flat.

Just a note for future, should you ever need it, if you are using canvas, you need to mount it on an interlining fabric (I tend to use cotton lawn).  The canvas pieces are the bodice pattern pieces, without seam allowance and they are sewn onto the lawn through the pattern and the two pieces used as one but the seam allowance fabric is only the lawn.  I hope that makes sense!

Re the lining I would always sew lining in after the zip.

Catllar

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #11 on: November 21, 2021, 09:09:28 AM »
I'm late to this but my comment is " Boning for an 8 year old's dress?" Really?  Waist stay for the skirt weight but keep the bodice as simple as possible - line and interline .  Look forward to a picture or two! :) 
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Rosieh

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #12 on: January 05, 2022, 08:49:21 AM »
Finished! :VV: I underlined the bodice and skirts and its all worked out well!

Missie

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #13 on: January 05, 2022, 10:39:37 AM »
That looks lovely @Rosieh.  Well done!

Sewbusy

Re: Bone or underline?
« Reply #14 on: January 05, 2022, 10:42:47 AM »
A little late in the day to this, but a possibility could be to have a separate waistline underskirt with shoulder straps from the waist?