The Sewing Place

Advice needed!

Greybird

Advice needed!
« on: January 02, 2022, 15:22:13 PM »
Help needed please! I would welcome advice from all quarters and especially @Sandra !

My son arrived before Christmas with a pile of repairs to be done. I can deal with the others but I can't see how to do this jacket. He won't wear it because it has no pockets. He would like pockets inserted in the outer of the topstitched seams that run down from the shoulders and through the top pockets. Preferably zipped (he thinks he would like copper coloured metal zips!) but at a pinch, open pockets. Problem is that they aren't actually seams, they are tucks with a top-stitched edge and I can't see how I can cut into them to gain any kind of seam allowance. He is very picky, and if they don't end up looking as if they came out of the shop with pockets he won't wear it. Do I give up before I start, or do I give it a go?

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Sandra

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2022, 15:38:29 PM »
Ewww... :S nasty job.

It's a tricky one isn't it? I honestly wouldn't know where to start on that.
The problem is, as you say, there's no extra allowance added onto the 'seam' for you to add the pocket turnings so you'd have to scrimp around with what's there to try to cobble something together.

And he's fussy? If he didn't mind how it turned out it wouldn't be so bad to have a stab at it.
I think I'd decline taking this job on.

Sandra.
xxx

toileandtrouble

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2022, 17:16:09 PM »
Same here.  Would he like an inside pocket instead?
Yarn down:  650g
Fabric down:  7. 25m

Iminei

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2022, 17:25:19 PM »
Im sorry @Greybird  but I'd tell him to buy another jacket !!!

Can you tell Im not a mother ???  :devil:
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Ohsewsimple

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2022, 17:43:33 PM »
I wouldn’t touch it!   I was thinking inside pockets too.

Acorn

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2022, 19:01:39 PM »
Tell him you'll put some lovely red and white polka dot patch pockets on the front.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

b15erk

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2022, 20:59:39 PM »
I thought a couple of welt pockets might do it...

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ploshkin

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2022, 21:30:29 PM »
I too would say if you wanted a jacket with pockets you should have bought one with pockets  :)
Life's too short for ironing.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2022, 22:02:05 PM »
In my opinion you can't put pockets in that tuck, but you could add a zipped pocket with a visible zipper slightly to the side of it without too much trouble.

Sort of like this one only rotated by 90 degrees

I was inserting a zip into a stretch woven and it stretched out slightly, which yours won't. You could do a bit of a practice first on a similar fabric to see if you can achieve the finish you want.

BrendaP

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2022, 22:37:56 PM »
 If you tried to put it into the tuck it would have to go where the first line of stitching is, not where the top stitching is and then you'd have the problem of dealing with the folded tuck either end.

A vertical welt pocket with an exposed zip would be possible - but only between the two tucks/faux seams.

I agree with the others though, I wouldn't take on the job!
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Greybird

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2022, 23:11:16 PM »
The problem with welt pockets etc is that they wouldn't have originally been found in such a jacket and it would offend his sense of "rightness". When I said he was picky, that doesn't begin to describe it! He is high-functioning Aspergers and every detail has to be correct. I think he probably bought the jacket at a very reduced price (one of his obsessions) and had every faith in me being able to make it perfect! I especially liked @Acorn 's suggestion of red polka dot patch pockets, but if I suggested it he would probably think I was being serious!

I shall return it to him untouched! Thank you all.

Esme866

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2022, 05:49:10 AM »
Ruthie's idea with the accent zip would work, but those kinds of pockets are not at all comfortable for actually putting your hands into them. I have some sensory issues with clothing, so I get it. Has driven my Mom nuts my whole life. And a jacket without usable lower pockets would drive me nuts.

Does the jacket have standard side seams? If so, it would be rather simple to add in seam pockets there, and they would be comfortable to use. Not seen often in Mens clothing, but quite common in womens, and they really aren't very visible. I wouldn't hesitate to add them if there is a side seam and they can be tacked into place on the inside behind one of the tucked "front seams", so that the addition will look finished. I use french seams on pocket bags like this.

Greybird

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2022, 10:15:44 AM »
@Esme866  good point. It does have side seams and I had wondered briefly about putting them in there. I think I might return it to him as it is, and if he is inclined to pursue it, then suggest the side seams.

I might have to post all his things back to him - he lives near Guildford and I don't see him often - but I thought I'd email him and cut and paste some of your comments in it! That way he'll know it's not just me!

Missie

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #13 on: January 03, 2022, 15:46:29 PM »
Ok, I am the type that will aways find a way to do something but there is no way you could put a suitable pocket into the tuck.  The upper part would be fine but there will be no seam allowance to do the lower layer and keep the jacker as it is; you would have to eat into the fabric of the main jacket which would look just weird.  Personally, I dont think that pockets in the side seams would be a great idea either as they would not be in the right place for my hands (note I said "my").  However, he may well feel that that option would be suitable and it is certainly doable.
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

Gernella

Re: Advice needed!
« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2022, 16:05:47 PM »
The only way it would work @Greybird would be to cut the fabric just below the stitching where your finger is, enough to allow the zip  to be inserted and machine over your stitching where your finger is, then with the spare fabric pinched  from near your finger use that to stitch the other side of the zip to it.  Then add the sleeve bags to the zip on the inside.

What it would look like would be debatable.

Nice varnish :)
Stash extension 2022 - 12 meters
Left at the end of 2021 - 43.2 meters