Silk Velvet - help!!

[Helcat_42]

I have pushed the boat out and ordered some silk velvet to make an overdress for a dress I am making for Secret Cinema does Bridgerton but I am somewhat perplexed.

I have never sewed with silk velvet before (because it's not cheap)

When I have sewed with velvet or velour there is an obvious pile - but I can't work out whether this does has a pile and I can't find it or it doesn't have it - there isn't an obvious change in colour or feel when I run my finger over it ...

Please can someone help me <hopeful face>

[BrendaP]

If there isn't an obvious direction it won't matter which way you cut it but use a one-way layout as you would for any fabric with a pile/nap.

[sewmuchmore]

here is a useful article on sewing velvet. As @BrendaP says i would still cut out your pattern pieces in the same direction, it may not feel as if it has a nap but have you looked at the fabric from both directions, up and down, does it appear lighter/darker if it does then it has a nap. If the colour is exactly the same from which ever angle you look at it then there is no nap.
Good luck

[Acorn]

It might help to take a black and white photograph of it with part smoothed one way, and part the other - black and white often shows up really subtle colour changes that aren't visible in colour.

[Helcat_42]

Thank you all - some really good tips.

I have tried holding it both ways; it's a navy blue velvet (I don't know if that makes a difference)

with other velvet you could tell by brushing it with your finger (i.e. smooth one way, slightly rough on the other) but this just seems soft both way.

Would definitely cut it all the same direction.

I will try the black and white photo and see if that makes a difference.

[Renegade Sewist]

Be very careful pressing this. One of those insanely expensive velvet press boards would be good. Not sure if the heavily napped Turkish towel routine works well with silk velvet.

What I do know is it embosses beautifully.

Eta: I've never known a velvet to not have a nap. I just read Folkwear patterns info stating that silk velvet, technically silk /rayon velvet, definitely has a nap. I know sometimes it isn't obvious unless under certain lighting conditions. Always best to assume a nap, decide which end is up and be consistent.

[toileandtrouble]

Mark the ' top' of the fabric with a coloured thread. Also Mark each piece you cut, and what is left, the same way. Then you are sure the nap is right. Don't want to find out when you sew it!

[Helcat_42]

I am so grateful for all the advice, and eventually I did manage to determine there was a slight nap. I made sure I cut all the pieces the same way (boy was it fidgety in the cutting out).

It lulled me into a false sense of security whilst sewing the bodice side and the front to the back piece when I attempted to sew it to the cotton lining ... cue a fair amount unpicking, swearing and then tacking to within an inch of its life.

I will say that I am so glad I have a walking foot and also that this silk velvet anyway prefers to be sewn to silk velvet and not anything else; also that slow is better ...

I am pleased with what I have achieved so far, although I do need to straighten then bottom and hem (possibly embelish) and do some hand stitching to make it lie better ...

[Bumblebuncher]

How pretty!  It really makes me hanker for my old costuming days.  I made one similar a few years ago although it was made with the cheapest fabric I could find for the stage 
BB

[Helcat_42]

How pretty!  It really makes me hanker for my old costuming days.  I made one similar a few years ago although it was made with the cheapest fabric I could find for the stage 
BB

Any pictures? I am always keen to find inspiration for the next one ...

It will be re-used as I promenade at the Jane Austen festival every year and this year we are hoping to go to the Country dance as well; but I have in the past made them out of all duvets/curtains (brilliant to get wide enough for the back skirt piece).

[Ohsewsimple]

Looking really nice!  Well done on sewing that stuff! 

[Silver Rose]

It looks lovely,  well done.

[Bumblebuncher]

@Helcat_42  I will have a look for pics, I am sure there are some around somewhere but as it was about 5 years ago I have no idea where!
BB
Found it!
dress
As I recall it was used for Robin Hood and was a set of three but can only find one.
I believe it was made in a day with fabric costing about £3 
Not exactly on the same level as yours but the same kind of thing.  I always chundered through the normal costumes and then spent weeks on the 'special' ones for the ending, although they still only cost a few pounds each from various donations and cheap buys.

[Iminei]

I have added the article on how to sew Velvet to the Tutorials Area of TSP ... Fabulous dress @Helcat_42

You are so talented and I am, as ever, in awe of people who can sew clothes, altho' I think that beautiful dress warrants a more sophisticated(?) description .... Eveningwear?

[Helcat_42]

@Bumblebuncher Love it - and the trim on the edges. On the previous dress to this one I have started playing with piping on the neckline ...

What's the most difficult costume you had to sew?