Why I'm a toile convert

[b15erk]

For much of my sewing life, I placed my faith in the patternmakers, a slim, pretty standard fit body - and a lot of luck.

These days, with a rather different shaped body, a lot of patterns designed for the 'average' woman - and a huge stash to use up, I have come more and more to rely on toiles.

Not your couture type toile, just an old bit of fabric to test size, techniques and style, but it makes such a difference.  Things fit better and I don't waste my 'nice' fabric on something unsuitable.

The latest sacrifice to the toile stash is an old duvet cover, but I also have lots of cheap sheets, upholstery weight fabric, and remnants of various stretch fabrics.

Also, I don't do anything fancy with the toile - usually it isn't a 'wearable' toile, and just sew as much as I need to.  Sometimes - like the camisole I recently made, they are suitable to wear in the garden, but, sometimes they will be re-used for other things or used for ironing cloths, and test scraps.

Sometimes it's just a way of avoiding making an expensive mistake for me, and avoiding a style which will not suit me.

Jessie

[Gernella]

I've only ever done one @b15erk was when I made the Chanel style jacket.  I was quite pleased when it fitted nicely, only to discover sometime later that I had missed cutting out the side fillets (I think Chanel put them in so if the customer expands they can let them out).  I got round it by slimming mine down to virtually nothing.

Most times I fall fowl with fabric pattern/colour/neckline.  Being fair skinned/older I don't really suit dark colours.  I swear that since I've lost weight on my face my nose looks bigger, but can't do much about that.

[Bumblebuncher]

@b15erk Me too!
I spent years trying to work out why things didn't fit even when I 'upgraded' the pattern.  Then discovered the joys of the FBA (love the FBA) which miraculously made things fit around my larger than a C cup boobs.  At the same time I had to do the FBA on a toile which inevitably led me to realise what a lovely thing a toile is.
I am also a fan of wrapping paper!  I copy the pattern onto the wrapping paper and make adjustments on that.  Cut it out in some rubbish fabric (I do have a load of muslin too for finer projects)  and then the toile becomes the pattern.
I am utilizing an old duvet for the wedding dress I am making which is also good use of the fabric 
I tend to keep the unpicked toile in the same bag as the pattern so I can go back to it if I want. 

[Ohsewsimple]

Can’t beat a good toile @b15erk.  They are worth all the time spent correcting them.   
One suggestion I have  to make them even easier to use and adjust.  Just in case anyone doesn’t do it…….
Always mark CF, CB  lines.   Then mark the hip line, waistline, bustline and across back measurement which is midway between bottom of the armhole and shoulder.  Then you can check to make sure these lines are level.   If they’re raising or dipping you know you need to adjust to bring them level. 
Yes it takes a few more minutes to mark  but saves time when fitting.  No you don’t have a wearable toile but I always think that’s a bit of an oxymoron anyway. 

[Catllar]

Surely if you have a wearable toile then you've spent far too much time on it!

[b15erk]

I quite agree @Catllar !  Unfortunately, as I am sself taught, my teacher is often ill informed, and I never know what is enough with a toile.  Sometimes as well, I struggle with technique, so I go ahead and make several samples eg in-seam pockets.

Wearable toiles for me, are usually tops which are made of fabric which is suitable to wear outside in the garden.  I'm a messy gardener, and usually look like Worzel Gummidge! 

Jessie

[Bumblebuncher]

I actually shove my machine on a long stitch and sew in waistline, bustline etc in a really obvious thread so i can see it without having to look for it!
It is especially useful when doing a toile for myself because of all that looking in the mirror to try and figure it out malarkey.

[Ohsewsimple]

Good idea @Bumblebuncher

[coffeeandcake]

Another toile maker here - out of necessity.  None of of mine would be wearable though, as quite often they're made up from various scraps of fabric of the correct type and as similar in weight as possible.  I generally write all the adjustments that I've made on them as well

[realale]

I like a good toille but occasionally (ok usually  ) I get carried away and end up making the garment rather than toilling it. I have my standard adjustments that I do to the pattern before cutting out so quite often it's to see if the style suits me rather than for fitting. Hence my latest well fitting but absolutely useless on me culottes. 
I think I made roughly 4 or 5 toilles to get a good fit pair of trousers and each one was hacked about and marked to oblivion. But those final trousers are the comfiest ones I have ever worn!!
I also still use the toille as a pattern for the bridesmaid dress I made for Demented Fairies' wedding. I've made it about 4 or 5 times now with a slight variation each time and that is another one that I like wearing. So yes, a good toille is well worth doing.

[Silver Rose]

I agree about making a toile for trousers @realale it took me about four goes to get a good fit. When I first started sewing princess seams I made a toile first but as I am a fairly standard shape for  14/16 size and about 5ft 6in tall now I just get on and sew. I have to keep checking my waist measurement though,  it does fluctuate.

[Starryfish]

I too use toiles for trousers, jeans and coats.  Especially if it's a designer new to me. Off the rack trousers don't fit me at all with my large bum and comparatively narrow waist. 
I don't like elasticated waists much, too much fabric gathered at the back.

[Ohsewsimple]

@realale I often use a croquis if I’m doing something different.  I found it useful before wasting time or fabric.  I got DH to take photos of me front back and sides.  (Not a pretty sight). Then I printed it out and traced it onto white paper.  I used a Sharpie pen.  When I need to work on it I can make a new pencil tracing and then I can draw the appropriate design lines to see if it will work.  Patterns usually have line drawings showing all the necessary seams ,darts etc to help. 

[realale]

@realale I often use a croquis if I’m doing something different.  I found it useful before wasting time or fabric.  I got DH to take photos of me front back and sides.  (Not a pretty sight). Then I printed it out and traced it onto white paper.  I used a Sharpie pen.  When I need to work on it I can make a new pencil tracing and then I can draw the appropriate design lines to see if it will work.  Patterns usually have line drawings showing all the necessary seams ,darts etc to help.

Oh my golly gosh I forgot all about my croquis!! I have a load of them printed off somewhere. Being without a proper place to sew for 6 years has really knocked me about. I now have a lovely room but keep forgetting things that I once took for granted. Thanks for reminding me @Ohsewsimple. I'll go on a croquis hunt tomorrow and call it part of my decluttering challenge 

[Adey1981]

I'm new to sewing and plan on making my own jeans. I am 6'6" and struggle to get clothes to fit - especially jeans and trousers.
I feel like I have to make a toile because 1) I need the practice and 2) no pattern is going to fit me.

I just hope the missus doesnt mind me carving up a duvet cover