The Sewing Place

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...

b15erk

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« on: May 11, 2022, 09:59:16 AM »
I'm in search of yet another best way forward for me, and would like to hear your opinions/advice.

Atm, I'm doing a sewalong with BF, as she's having trouble with bits of her pattern.  I'm doing the same pattern, but to make it more interesting, I want to do a Welt Pocket - with a Flap!

So far, I've read various tutorials, and watched loads of Youtube videos - some good, some frankly apalling, but all have raised various points of interest which I need some advice on.

Firstly, Itch to Stitch . This was very detailed and helpful.

Second, and for me, the one I prefer, was Angela Kane Angela Kane

However, in each one, the welts are constructed differently.  ItoS uses welt strips, which I find easier and more accurate, but, it's bulky, and not as nice and flat (in my practise piece) as the AK one.  I am now wondering, if it is possible to combine the two...

I'm off to have a practise, but I would be really interested to hear your favourite method.

Jessie
« Last Edit: May 11, 2022, 10:29:37 AM by b15erk »
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Gernella

Re: Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2022, 10:21:54 AM »
I used the Palmer Pleitsch when I did their jacket @b15erk , although I did get one slightly out but it was my first attempt and pressing helped. the instructions in the pattern were very precise as well. I don't have any trouble with welt pockets it's the jetted ones I'm not keen on and so far that's the only one I've done.

I've just bought their book second hand (was like new) but they don't mention jetted just welt and double welt etc. At some point I downloaded and printed the instructions off for the future, but have mislaid it, but definitely not thrown away.
Stash extension 2022 - 12 meters
Left at the end of 2021 - 43.2 meters

b15erk

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2022, 10:28:51 AM »
@Gernella , thank you so much for mentioning an important word which I left out - it's the Jetted welt pocket I'm doing... :sorry:

I'm just figuring out the best method for me.  Some are quite bulky...

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2022, 12:16:37 PM »
Well, I'm on my way.  I've just tried the Angela Kane method, but I pressed the welt in before stitching.  It did make life easier, but left fabric which I wasn't altogether sure what to do with...  I also managed to attach the pocket to the wrong bit of fabric, so ended up with a none functioning pocket...  :rolleyes: :thinking: :rolleyes:

Saying that, it loooks OK from the front, and the flap folds neatly inside.  I just need to work on the details...

I'm now working on yet another piece, so fingers crossed for a better result.

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Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Elnnina

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2022, 12:29:47 PM »
Jessie I have a book called  Coat and Skirt Making (skirts, trousers, jackets and coats) by Samuel Heath, and this covers tailoring and this is the best book I have seen showing the techniques I was taught in tailoring, it really is brilliant and the drawings in this book are so very clear.  There are a few pages on the jetted welt pocket, and attaching the pocket bag.

Another tip is to use a wooden clapper or failing a clapper use a new clean wooden rolling pin not only to whack the buttonhole area into flatness, but hold this down over the offending area after a good steaming, the wood will absorb the steam making the fabric fall into submission.

I was lucky in finding this Samuel Heath book for sale on the library trolley for £1 and of course I leapt on this and am so pleased that I have.  Also in this book it shows you how to make a sleeve head roll - this is in addition to the sleeve shoulder pads and just gives a nice neat finish to the sleeve head.  There are loads and loads of tailoring techniques that I learnt during my tailoring course back in the 60's and have never seen some of these until I got this book.

There are a few of these books available through e-bay and second hand book shops, my copy of the book has a white background and shows a Gutermann reel of green  thread, a thimble and a needle.

Hope this might help you.

Ploshkin

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2022, 13:16:20 PM »
I can't figure out what the 'jetted" refers to, I would call that a double welt pocket with flap.  What does a non jetted welt pocket look like?
Life's too short for ironing.

b15erk

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2022, 13:42:28 PM »
@Ploshkin , apparently the welt on the top is the jetted bit... I think...

I think I'm there now - or as near as dammit.  The inside doesn't look so neat, but the lining will cover it.

For this last sample I used the welts cut and folded to size - Angela Kane's method was too fiddly for me. The welts need to be stitched just a smidge larger than the Flap.  After that it was the AK instructions I followed.  I got the pocket wrong again, but I think I've figured it out now.

I've done the last sample in the jacket fabric and lining, and I used a packet facing.  I think I'll abandon this, and just use the lining which I think gives a nice contrast.

Here are some pics

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Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2022, 14:52:18 PM »
That’s very neat @b15erk.  I’m assuming you keep your samples for future reference?   
I usually use Claire Shaeffer's method for bound buttonholes and welt pockets.  It’s good to try different methods to get the one that suits you best.

Ploshkin

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2022, 15:23:23 PM »
You've made a neat job of that Jessie.  I've only done one on wool which is very forgiving.
Life's too short for ironing.

b15erk

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2022, 15:51:00 PM »
Thanks Gels, much appreciated!  I've just done another, so that I know it's not a fluke, and to make sure I know where the pocket bag attaches. 

The process is pretty simple, but you do have to be very accurate around the welts, so that you don't get to much gap either side of the flap.  I found the best way to do this, was to lay the flap over the welts, and mark at each end.  Sewing right up to the mark gives just enough space to slot the flap into.

@Ohsewsimple , yes, I keep the samples for reference, but whether I would remember the process without some reference, well, that's another thing!

Next step is to put a pair of them onto the jacket - but that's for tomorrow!  I'm out for dinner tonight! :D

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Gernella

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2022, 18:11:33 PM »
Stash extension 2022 - 12 meters
Left at the end of 2021 - 43.2 meters

Ouryve

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2022, 19:28:11 PM »
The test runs @b15erk posted look better than some of those examples, which seem to feature rather a lot of wonkiness and stuffing it in to fit, @Gernella.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working.
Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry.

Flobear

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2022, 20:40:39 PM »
The welts need to be stitched just a smidge larger than the Flap.  After that it was the AK instructions I followed.  I got the pocket wrong again, but I think I've figured it out now.
Jessie

It's only since starting P&Q that I've come across the Smidge but what a useful beastie it has proved to be  ;)

Fab job, @b15erk. Always worth a couple of practice goes on something like that  :thumb:
Sparkling Stars blocks: 7 down, 18 to go. Curtains: 10 up, 8 to go, 2 hems to do.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2022, 22:14:56 PM »
@b15erk its often a good idea to take photos as you go.  Write notes and scribble all over the sample too!   So handy.   ;)

Ouryve

Re: Jetted Welt Pocket with Flap...
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2022, 23:19:44 PM »
My favourite sewing patterns feature the smidge. Like the inner cuff or undercollar slightly smaller than their counterpart. Or the facing gathered in a few mm so a neckline doesn't roll out. Understitching is the ultimate expression of the smidge because the stitched side is a smidge tighter than the other side.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working.
Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry.