Dart on Turn of Fabric

[b15erk]

This is the Fleur Blazer - again, and the pesky collar!  I'd like to make some headway before I speak to BF tomorrow (we're doing a sew along)

This pattern calls for bagging out - the whole thing, including collar, which is OK, but...  On the main fabric, where the lapel and collar turn back, there is a small pleat.  My question is, how to incorporate it?  If there was no pleat there, I would cut into the corner, and straighten the collar out, but I'm a bit doubtful about this pleat... Do I still cut into the corner???

Does anyone know how to deal with this?  None of my books help, or Google so I need the nod off you lovely people, so that I can carry on.

This hasn't been an easy pattern, with little in the way of instructions, so I'm flying by the seat of my pants here.  If it was just me, I'd wing it, but I'm helping my friend through it, so I want to get it right.

Why it nothing straightforward... :thinking:

Jessie

[Catllar]

Never done this so in your place I think I'd make a small sample and try it.

[b15erk]

I did figure it out @Catllar , but after many samples! 

The dart runs into the collar seam, so needs accuracy - and patience to figure the best way to do it.

I was sewing this with a friend who is relatively new to sewing, so I took lots of pics, and I'll be sending her the last sample.

Jessie

[Kad]

@b15erk

I've just finished making Simplicity 8697 for DD and I think this also has the ' dart into collar' feature:   [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

Are these instructions of any use?

[b15erk]

@Kad , thank you!  I've done mine now, but I'll print off the instructions for future reference.  They may also help my friend when she catches up with her jacket.

Jessie