The Sewing Place

Am I understanding this pattern?

Adey1981

Am I understanding this pattern?
« on: May 25, 2022, 12:49:02 PM »
So, I'm trying to follow a commercial pattern for the first time and I'm slightly confused.

The instructions say that for double thickness to fold the fabric with the right side inside.
For single thickness you place on the right side.
In the cutting layout picture, once piece is marked as double thickness and the other just says to fold. With the folded piece, would that be right sides outside/wrong sides together?
Also, with the 2 skirt pattern pieces, one is shown to be right side up (white), and the other right side down (dotted). How does this relate to the whole 'double thickness' thing? Do I flip one patten piece over on the same fold of fabric?

I'm not sure I explained it that well, hopefully someone will understand.

Thanks



Greybird

Re: Am I understanding this pattern?
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2022, 13:03:18 PM »
You normally cut double thickness with the fold in the fabric lengthways. Your pattern layout though is showing the fold across the width of the fabric - this will be to make the best use of the fabric you have. This assumes a "without nap" layout though - i.e. a fabric without any pile or one way design printed on it - if it has a design of dogs for instance, on one piece they would be upside down. It doesn't really matter whether it has the right side inside or outside as long as you make a note of which is which. It can be easier to match pattern designs on one piece to another if it's right side outside. If you are cutting on single thickness of fabric, the same applies.

Starryfish

Re: Am I understanding this pattern?
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2022, 13:06:01 PM »
For a start I always fold the fabric with the right side out, and the sewing police have never  prosecuted. Seriously, you can see the pattern of the fabric that way and make sure it will match on the seams if that matters to you. ( I hate it if it doesn't.
As your pattern instructions have you folding the fabric crosswise for the skirt pieces, two of them will have the pattern upside down as well. One of the skirt pattern pieces is supposed to be laid wrong side up, and I am having trouble visualising why.

If you are using plain fabric, the upside down two pieces shouldn't matter unless there is a nap ( like velvet or cord). The pattern is trying to cram large skirt pieces onto narrow fabric. If it was me, I would use 140cm wide fabric, buy a generous quantity, and fiddle about until all the pieces fitted to my satisfaction. However I almost never look at the suggested layout, so feel free to ignore me. The small pieces are waistband interfacing? It just wants you to place them on a fold so you get two whole pieces, I think.
Hope this helps.
A day without sewing is a day wasted.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Am I understanding this pattern?
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2022, 13:10:05 PM »
@Adey1981 I’m guessing this is an old pattern?   The layout you have there is for 90cm wide fabric.  You don’t find that much nowadays.  Check the width of your fabric before following this. 

@Greybird has given you some useful info.  I’m just a bit too late to the party! :)   As said, be careful turning pieces round if you have a pattern on the fabric.  Always pays to check it out well!   

Adey1981

Re: Am I understanding this pattern?
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2022, 13:21:52 PM »
@Ohsewsimple

Yes, it's and old Simplicity pattern from the charity shop (6388).

@Starryfish
That makes sense. Thank you. I suppose if a pattern piece is cut out on folded fabric, whether it's inside out or not, you end up with the same pieces?
I've not bought the fabric yet, the stuff I've looked at tends to be 100 or 110 wide. Would 2 meters be enough for this do you think? Cheers

@Greybird

That all makes sense, thank you. When I get the fabric I might choose a print that is 'omnidirectional' to make it easier for myself.

Thank you so much for the help guys, it's very much appreciated

BrendaP

Re: Am I understanding this pattern?
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2022, 23:17:39 PM »
I agree with all that the others have said. 

It doesn't matter whether you fold with right side out or wrong side out, and indeed it's prpbably better if the right side is outside so that you can see the pattern. 

It also doesn't matter with pieces which are to be cut on folded fabric whether the pattern piece is right side up or right side down, you end up with a left and a right either way.

If a piece is to be cut on the fold (doesn't apply to this pattern) you must place the fold line exactly on the fold, and unless clearly indicated otherwise the fold should be down the length of the pattern.

This pattern is definitely for a non-directional fabric, but it's also for 36" fabric which is very rare nowadays.  If you use 42"/45" fabric you might be able to get away with a smaller lenght of fabric and/or not need to reverse the direction.  If you use 55"/60" fabric you will definitely need less than the pattern's stated length.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Adey1981

Re: Am I understanding this pattern?
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2022, 23:02:02 PM »
Thank you @BrendaP  :thumb: