The Sewing Place

Vintage dress sizes (doh!)

Adey1981

Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« on: May 29, 2022, 22:16:14 PM »
So, I just made a dress for the missus (size 12). The only problem is......the pattern is from 1974. :facepalm:

Oh well, at least I got some practice in.

 :rolleyes:


Lachica

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2022, 22:22:07 PM »
Ah, yes, vanity sizing  >< I was a size 12 in 1974 and am a 12-14 now, having gained 15% of my then weight & had 2 children to stretch my hips. You've learnt a valuable lesson: always check body measurements against the pattern pieces. Is the dress salvageable?
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

Acorn

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2022, 22:23:44 PM »
Even if it was a current pattern you would need to choose the size to make by actual measurements rather than commercial dress size - nobody is the same size in a dressmaking pattern as they are in M&S!  In fact many people get quite upset when they discover that they appear to be a much larger size on a pattern.

So you must use real measurements, but bear this in mind:

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I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Tamnymore

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2022, 22:36:31 PM »
Yes dress sizes have changed over the years and proportions too. Waists are bigger.... not just speaking for myself!

'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Adey1981

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2022, 22:46:56 PM »
@Acorn @Lachica

The frustrating this is, I knew about the whole size change thing, but it just slipped my mind leading up to making the dress.

I'm don't think the dress is salvagable really. The fabric was already salvaged from a cotton bed sheet, it looked ok when I bought it, but when I cut the pieces out I could see they were faded differently. Subtle gradients become obvious once you cut them up and rearrange them. I'm gonna stop buying used fabric from now anyway, I dont really need to, there's good deals online and charity shops even sell unopened sheets etc.

The dress is a bit meh anyway. I had to do facing on a boob-shaped neckline and had a not-so-invisible zip. Not my finest work

Ouryve

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2022, 23:31:51 PM »
Yes, I'm a 14 in M&S and supposedly a 18 in big 4 patterns, though only with shoulder pads like an American footballer!


Going by measurements is essential and, more to the point, go by upper bust measurement and adjust for boobs as appropriate.


Then take into account that we're all a bit wonky. I was 5'4 10 years ago, no doubt less now as that was already an inch off my young adult height, yet I often need to add an inch or so to the body length of tops and the rise of trousers. See also, taking 2-3" off the inseam of trousers before I even try to square my flat arse and middle aged gut.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

Adey1981

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2022, 11:53:00 AM »
@Ouryve

It must be a nightmare trying to buy clothes as a woman. All you get is a size to go by, with no accounting for height or bust size etc. I'm starting to question whether I want to make any more dresses now.

Bumblebuncher

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2022, 12:41:37 PM »
@Adey1981 Once you have a good fit you then have a size to adapt and work with for many options of style.  Have you considered making a basic block to start with and then designing your own for her?
As it neared the top of the grade, it went more slowly. However, it still kept saying, "I—think—I—can, I—think—I—can." It reached the top by drawing on bravery and then went on down the grade, congratulating itself by saying, "I thought I could,  I thought I could."

HenriettaMaria

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2022, 13:46:10 PM »
I bought summer trousers from John Lewis a few years back.  Size 16.  A year or two later, tried the same trick and the size that came close claimed to be 10, but were still a bit loose around the hips.  Meanwhile, back at the ranch, the size '16' trousers still fitted.

Consider that dress as a toile and have another go!

Adey1981

Re: Vintage dress sizes (doh!)
« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2022, 23:16:46 PM »
@Bumblebuncher

That thought did cross my mind actually, but then just forgot about it. I think that would be a good idea though, I like the idea of measuring and making my own patterns, I would learn a lot I reckon.

@HenriettaMaria

Yeah, there were a few new techniques for me with this dress (zip, interfacing, facings) so I'm happy to just consider it a practice really. The next one should be better (and fit, hopefully!)