It's Toile Time!

[b15erk]

As per usual, if I have a plan, I immediately want to deviate from it.  So, the jacket is on the back burner - again!

Instead, I'm doing a shirt dress - I have a thing about shirt dresses, and I saw one in TKMaxx which to me was well overpriced, but compared to the styles I usually wear, apparently currently in vogue...

This one though is a bit special, as it has a shawl collar.  Now here are the drawbacks.  They are both Very Old patterns, they look the same, but the patterns inside are different.  The dress pattern is a size 14 (old, 1980) and the blouse a size 18 (old,1986), and I had to compare one to the other for size.  Tbh there doesn't look much in it, and I've decided to just add a smidge to the dress pattern, and make a toile.  I'm using the dress pattern as it has a seperate yoke piece, and looks a bit less finicky than the blouse.

This is why I'm doing a 'proper' toile. I've made the blouse pattern several times, and although I like the finished result, I find it very fiddly.  I'm hoping that the shirtdress will be more straightforward.

So, all cut out, and ready to join front to back - wish me luck!

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Jessie

[b15erk]

It's done. 

Very simple, 4 pieces and it fell together.  The 'smidge' I added wasn't needed - size 14 - MOI! 

A few style problems though. My usual 'thing' with gathers and scrunching them up into a belt...

It's a single yoke, and I'm not sure I'm up to doing a double and a burrito alteration - I did it on the blouse, and it made things very complicated.

If I leave the yoke single, how best to finish the inside?  :thinking:

Is it even possible to put some darting around the waist, to take the bulk out of the waistline (what's left of it!)

I may try tweaking the toile, or I may just look for a better pattern...

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Jessie

[Tamnymore]

Wow you are very talented @b15erk to make these old patterns work but they are nice patterns and your tolie looks good. I used to love Style patterns. I did a burrito thingy on a double yoke the other day and, to my surprise, it worked very well. That was without following the pattern instructions at that point as I thought they weren't very clear. My collar wasn't on at that stage so it was very easy to turn it inside our through the neck opening. If I were doing a single yoke I think I would just overlock the seam edges.

[toileandtrouble]

I have 4824 too, but unfortunately only a 14.  Need a bit of a rest before I attempt to scale it up.  I did it once, but in an unsuitable fabric and it has languished in the stash ever since.  I do like the style, perhaps I should give it another outing.

[Diane]

@b15erk That's really pretty fabric and i love the style of it 

[realale]

I changed a single yoke to a double on the last trial blouse I made. Quite easy to do but I had to add the front facings first so that when I burritoed it the facings were enclosed in the yoke seams. It was very neat on the inside and I didn't need the back facing. Looks a good pattern, I too like Style patterns and have a few old ones still in my repetoire.

[b15erk]

@Diane , the toile fabric is an old John Wilman sheet which we grew out of a long time ago - I think I still have the matching duvet cover somewhere!

@toileandtrouble , the reason I did a toile, is that I thought it would come up very small - the blouse pattern (size 18) measures up to the same size, so I can safely say it's generous sizing!

I picked out fabric last night, not my first choice for colour, but it's a beautiful fine cotton - feels more like a silk/cotton than a lawn cotton.  I think it will hang nicely (and it needs using!)

Before I cut it out though, it's going through the washer as I think it may shrink.  While it's washing, I'm going to have a go at some darts...

I've also decided to put sleeves in - just not deecided which style yet.  I'll not put the pockets in, as they might increase the bulk around the hip.

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Jessie

[b15erk]

Back from my trip to the GC to change the chairs, and ready to go!

Unfortunately, my fabric is still on the line, so darts it is then...

I've also found a top with a lovely sleeve in, and I'm sure I can make it fit...

I'll just finish my tea.

Jessie

[Surest1tch]

I think I've got that pattern too, you've made a lovely job of it and I love that fabric  .

[Ohsewsimple]

@b15erk a single yoke is fine.   Just another seam like any other so I’d overlock the seam. 
For darts, put the garment on and pin excess out where you need it and where you think it looks best. 

[b15erk]

Thanks @Ohsewsimple , it means my life won't be more complicated than it is!

I've cracked on today, although it's been slow going.  The toile I've made is sleeveless, and I've decided I want sleeves, unfortunately the pattern pieces are different for sleeveless and sleeves, so I cobbled a sleeve together to see how it looked.  The other sleeve is from a different pattern, to give me an idea of the looke I want.  It looks peculiar on the pic, but I know now, that I don't want the plain one.  I also don't want it to be as full as the other, so, time to get creative!

I traced the sleeve pattern I'll be using, and then made slits up the sleeve from the bottom.  I added inch wide strips - five of them, and I think that will give me enough fullness.  I'll give it a shot tomorrow, and see how it goes.

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Jessie

[Ohsewsimple]

Looking good @b15erk
Sleeveless blocks or patterns usually have a higher armhole so you don’t see your underwear. 
It annoys me when I see patterns that are both.  I think they are badly drafted. 

[Cazlyn]

Gosh @b15erk you are so talented I wish I could sew like that, let alone alter the pattern.

[b15erk]

Not musch to do with talent @Cazlyn (but it's lovely of you to say so), more like dogged persistence!

Going to try to get a few hours in today - fabric is dried and ready to iron!!

My intention is to cut out the sleeve pattern and set it in the toile - just to see how it looks, and if it needs tweaking.

Got a few problems to sort out first...

Jessie

[Nevis5]

It's looking great, @b15erk  !  I'm so impressed by your creativity!  I'd have just bought yet another shirt pattern and lengthened it   

Hope you get a chance to do some more to it today x