The Sewing Place

Inserting a Stretch Jersey Neckband into a Woven Cotton T-shirt top

SewingBeeAddict

Hi there,

I hope this is the correct place to post my question - many apologies if not...

I was just wondering if anyone had some advice please for sewing a jersey neckband onto a woven lawn cotton top / t-shirt?

As per photo, I followed the measurements on the pattern for the length of the jersey neckband, but it is still a little "loose" and too full on the folded edge, so it doesn't sit completely flat.

The thing is though, that when I tried to stretch the neckband a little more (and therefore shorten the neckband) it then puckered the cotton lawn fabric. This is the best I could get it....

I would like to make more of these tops as it's such an easy and speedy pattern, but I really need to nail inserting the neckband first!

Any suggestions, would be very gratefully received!  :-)


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« Last Edit: July 14, 2022, 15:49:07 PM by SewingBeeAddict »
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

Ouryve

There will always be a little puckering, simply due to what you're asking the neckband to do - ie Stretch unevenly. It's about finding a balance, as ultimately, you don't want a saggy neckband. A rib with plenty of stretch works best and topstitching and a good press will help with the puckering but not completely eliminate it, especially with a soft, light woven like lawn.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

b15erk

 @SewingBeeAddict , have you tried a good shot of steam?  I've seen a lot worse necklines btw, that is very nice - lovely fabric too  <3

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Diane

@SewingBeeAddict I think that's a pretty good neckband to be honest  :thumb:
I’m a fabricholic on the road to recovery. Just kidding. I’m on the road to the fabric store.

Janome Memory Craft Horizon 9450QCP, Janome 4300QDC, Overlocker Brother 1034d, Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 40

Ouryve

And, yes, it looks good.


Just checked something I'd made and that has a little puckering where the neckband is more curved. It's a nice effect, with the linen I used, rather than something to eliminate. I did the same pattern with a cotton double gauze and it was less visible on that, though the natural crinkle appears to have taken the ease.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

SewRuthieSews

I don't think its too bad, but if you wanted to use that knit fabric on another top I'd shorten the jersey piece slightly.
It does depend on the amount of stretch and recovery in the knit fabric, so I tend to use the pattern piece as an indicator only.
I cut out a band a bit longer (but the same width) as the pattern piece.
Then having only sewn the shoulder seams, I use my fingers to gently stretch the band around the neckline a bit at a time (normally starting at one shoulder seam) until I get back to where I started. I then allow a bit for the seam, and chop the rest of the length off. I stitch the neckband into a loop, quarter the neckband and the neckline and use wonder clips to clips the band to the neckline edge.
Then before I've sewn it I flip the wonder clips down and see if the band looks like its about right.
If it does I sewn and overlock it, but if not I can shorten the band a bit and reclip before sewing.

Ohsewsimple

It’s really not too bad.  Have you tried it on to see what it looks like on a body?   You may be surprised.
Otherwise the curved areas either side of the centre front may benefit from a bit more stretch than the long straighter parts of the side of the neck.  Another alternative is to make the depth of the band slightly narrower. 

SewingBeeAddict

Hi everyone,

Apologies for such a late reply, but thanks very much indeed for your replies, advice and encouragement, I really appreciate you all being so kind!! 

I'll reply individually as well, but just wanted to start by saying a big Thank You!  :vintage:
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

SewingBeeAddict

There will always be a little puckering, simply due to what you're asking the neckband to do - ie Stretch unevenly. It's about finding a balance, as ultimately, you don't want a saggy neckband. A rib with plenty of stretch works best and topstitching and a good press will help with the puckering but not completely eliminate it, especially with a soft, light woven like lawn.

Thanks Ouryve, I will certainly give it a good press to see if that helps. The jersey I'm using is from Minerva (hope I can mention the name) and is their "core range" plain jersey - with I think 5% elastane. It's medium weight, so I may try a more stretchy jersey next time.
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

SewingBeeAddict

@SewingBeeAddict , have you tried a good shot of steam?  I've seen a lot worse necklines btw, that is very nice - lovely fabric too  <3

Jessie

Hi Jessie, thanks for your reply and advice - I'm certainly going to try and give it a good steam press -  and you're very kind about the neckline!!

Thanks also about the fabric - the design is called "Strawberry Thief" and is one of my favourite designs from Liberty's  Tana Lawn range of fabric. Tana Lawn is definitely one of my guilty pleasures - I think it's becoming something of an obsession really. I cannot resist when I see a length on eBay, or listed in Shaukat's offers page and I feel obliged to give it a good home. I've made lots of tops for myself over the last week or so, as with this weather I suddenly realised that I needed some more summery tops - I've made seven I think but have lost count a bit. At least it's getting through my LTL stash! Thanks again!
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

SewingBeeAddict

Re: Inserting a Stretch Jersey Neckband into a Woven Cotton T-shirt top
« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2022, 20:04:49 PM »
@SewingBeeAddict I think that's a pretty good neckband to be honest  :thumb:

You're so kind Diane, thank you very much!
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

SewingBeeAddict

Re: Inserting a Stretch Jersey Neckband into a Woven Cotton T-shirt top
« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2022, 20:08:59 PM »
And, yes, it looks good.


Just checked something I'd made and that has a little puckering where the neckband is more curved. It's a nice effect, with the linen I used, rather than something to eliminate. I did the same pattern with a cotton double gauze and it was less visible on that, though the natural crinkle appears to have taken the ease.

Hi again Ouryve! Thanks so much for posting the photo of your top - I have to say that looks really terrific - I hadn't thought of using that pattern in linen, but your top looks really lovely.....off to google for some nice linen fabric! The jersey you've used is a perfect match - and looks more robust than the plain jersey I've used. Is that jersey what is called "ribbed jersey" I wonder? And you're right, it does look really lovely with the slight fullness on the neckline.
 Thanks again for posting the photo and for your advice, it's much appreciated!
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

SewingBeeAddict

Re: Inserting a Stretch Jersey Neckband into a Woven Cotton T-shirt top
« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2022, 20:12:32 PM »
I don't think its too bad, but if you wanted to use that knit fabric on another top I'd shorten the jersey piece slightly.
It does depend on the amount of stretch and recovery in the knit fabric, so I tend to use the pattern piece as an indicator only.
I cut out a band a bit longer (but the same width) as the pattern piece.
Then having only sewn the shoulder seams, I use my fingers to gently stretch the band around the neckline a bit at a time (normally starting at one shoulder seam) until I get back to where I started. I then allow a bit for the seam, and chop the rest of the length off. I stitch the neckband into a loop, quarter the neckband and the neckline and use wonder clips to clips the band to the neckline edge.
Then before I've sewn it I flip the wonder clips down and see if the band looks like its about right.
If it does I sewn and overlock it, but if not I can shorten the band a bit and reclip before sewing.
Hi SewRuthieSews! Thanks very much for your reply and suggestions - that makes perfect sense thanks - I'll definitely try that as I've recently invested in some wonder clips so they'll be ideal. I also think I need to be more precise with dividing the jersey neckband into sections so that I can more accurately pin it to the neckline. Thanks again for your advice, I really appreciate it thanks!
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

SewingBeeAddict

Re: Inserting a Stretch Jersey Neckband into a Woven Cotton T-shirt top
« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2022, 20:17:26 PM »
It’s really not too bad.  Have you tried it on to see what it looks like on a body?   You may be surprised.
Otherwise the curved areas either side of the centre front may benefit from a bit more stretch than the long straighter parts of the side of the neck.  Another alternative is to make the depth of the band slightly narrower.

Hi Ohsewsimple, thanks very much for your reply! I have tried it on, and it's not too bad tbh, but I was annoyed that I hadn't got it better than it is. I'm not a huge fan of unpicking anyway, let alone unpicking the overlocked seam, but I did give it a go and it was a bit better, but wasn't sure about unpicking it for a third time. It's certainly fine to wear thanks, so I think I'll use the next top I make to practice the new techniques suggested so kindly by you all - ETA tomorrow morning, so I'll post photos - hopefully it will be an improvement!!

Ps. sorry I should have said - thanks also for the suggestion on making the band narrower - I'll certainly give that a go if I don't manage to improve the puckering.... Watch this space!
« Last Edit: July 15, 2022, 20:19:29 PM by SewingBeeAddict »
...with my cherished Bernina 1015 - a 1991 Vintage ♥

Ouryve

Re: Inserting a Stretch Jersey Neckband into a Woven Cotton T-shirt top
« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2022, 20:52:13 PM »
Yes, @SewingBeeAddict - the linen is Merchant & Mills linen 185 and the ribbing for the neckband is also from there, both in sweeps scrim which is a nice charcoal/black - appeals to my ageing goth wannabe! I would say merchant & Mills fabric and patterns are my guilty pleasure but they're often pretty reasonably priced for the quality.


Also a fan of liberty tana lawn and indulged in a length of this, in the sale (though not lucky enough to get it that cheap!) which I think will make a fine collarless shirt or tunic.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"