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Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please

SewRuthieSews

Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« on: July 23, 2022, 10:07:56 AM »
I'm away at the moment and went in a shop where I'd previously bought some lovely fabric. They still had some. I didn't buy any more as I've not sewn the first piece yet.
The fabric is a semi sheer, probably poly. It has fine stripes in satin alternating with fine stripes in the sheer. The colour is variegated across it, there ate several colourways but mine is teal.
Normally I overlock the edges of anything I'm unsure of and put it through the wash to see how it behaves. This fabric was too delicate for the overlocking to work, it frayed I suppose and the overlocking pulled away in places.

How could I handle and finish fabric like this?
I'm thinking a simple overblouse or kimono with French seams, perhaps treated with starch before starting?

Diane

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2022, 10:11:09 AM »
@SewRuthieSews Could you use some of the iron on interfacing that dissolves when you wash it?
« Last Edit: July 23, 2022, 10:16:53 AM by Diane »
I’m a fabricholic on the road to recovery. Just kidding. I’m on the road to the fabric store.

Janome Memory Craft Horizon 9450QCP, Janome 4300QDC, Overlocker Brother 1034d, Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 40

Ohsewsimple

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2022, 13:11:20 PM »
I’d leave the pattern pieces in place and don’t move them till you absolutely need to.  Probably use French seams. As few seams and darts as possible.   I’d use a tear away embroidery stabiliser.  But then I’ve got a huge bag of off cuts I save just for this sort of thing. 
Are you ok cutting it out?

Kwaaked

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2022, 23:50:31 PM »
What I do:

Cut in a single layer one piece at a time.
Allow at least 1/4 extra yardage for slippage when you cut.
Weights not pins for cutting out.
Start sewing with a scrap fabric at that beginning.  Keeps the sheer stuff from being sucked into the feed dogs.
My own stuff I use starch, tissue paper if it needs it for work.
Ban Roll for small hems.
#9 needle and finer thread (I use 40 Tex for most of my sewing, 32 Tex all purpose is better for sheers)
Teflon foot
Don't be a speed demon.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2022, 09:39:58 AM »
Thanks for the responses.
I have several semi sheer fabrics in mind but they are all a bit different.
Some were inexpensive, others less so. I'll share them when I'm back home.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2022, 17:21:12 PM »
I've been playing on Pinterest and looking in shops at the use of sheer fabric in garments.
As far as I can see it boils down to
A whole garment in the sheer fabric worn as some sort of overlayer, with a cami or undershirt underneath.

A whole garment in the sheer with lining in strategic places ie bodice but not sleeves.

Sheer sections on a garment e.g sheer sleeves attached to a solid body. Some cute t shirts which have sheer woven sleeves attached to a knit t body.

b15erk

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2022, 20:07:55 PM »
I would second copious use of spray starch, and I've been known to cut out on the carpet, or a sheet to help with slippage.

It's a slow business...

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Kwaaked

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2022, 23:06:05 PM »
"Sheer" itself is a weird category.  Generally, I use tulle and mesh net for weddings, and there is A LOT of it.  In choice and amount.

However lace, eyelet and voile are also considered in the family.  Not generally what one thinks of, but in a broad way...they kinda are.

Chiffon, Georgette and illusion netting are all what one thinks of as "sheers" and general handling is pretty much similar, but if looking for ideas, then the family of sheers can be thought of to extend the idea bank.

PollyWally

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2022, 03:52:16 AM »
Sandra Betzina recommends cotton thread for chiffon and georgette because polyester thread causes puckering.

Puzzler

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2022, 07:40:41 AM »
The only thing that comes to mind is rolled hems. Maybe that would work if you wanted to wash them (gently) before cutting out. I like the look of sheer sleeves on a solid body.

Interesting tip about the thread.

BrendaP

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2022, 09:39:39 AM »
Normally I overlock the edges of anything I'm unsure of and put it through the wash to see how it behaves. This fabric was too delicate for the overlocking to work, it frayed I suppose and the overlocking pulled away in places.

If the fabric frayed that badly it does beg the question as to whether or not it will be sturdy enough to use alone without an underlining.  :(
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Marniesews

Re: Very fine, sheer or semi sheer fabrics - tips please
« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2022, 19:42:56 PM »
It's a couple of years since I last sewed chiffon and organza for dancewear. Both are sheers but sew very differently. Organza is so well behaved in comparison.

I finally found the thing that worked for me roll-hemming chiffon circular skirts was - to use a very narrow overlock rather than the roll-hemming - really can't tell the difference in wear but the most important bit was to trim the edge neatly and not use the knife so I could take a bigger bite of fabric. Lovely finish and no thread falling off even around the bias sections of the curved hems.

I never tried the ban-roll hem. It looks great but my hems all had curves.

I also used Best Press rather than starch as tended to over-spray, get all those white flakes and found the fabric still felt different even after soaking i cold water. May be different with a proper wash.
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.