The Sewing Place

Bust adjustment

Syrinx

Bust adjustment
« on: June 24, 2017, 17:46:33 PM »
Does anyone know how much you can take in the bust on a corset? Doesn't have to look pretty or anything. I was thinking slash and dart type thing between the boning? Need to remove 3-4 inches (bust measurement is 34" and corset 37"). Is that too much? As said it's a boring everyday type thing, so can look as awful as necessary until I can afford a beautiful tailormade one  <3

I don't make corsets, so not sure where to shove these slashed darts or whether 3-4" is too much to take out? Assuming between clasps and first boning and then the fabric bit under the arm? or the one between the two? Such confusion with alterations when you have no idea. Give a me a good old quilt or cloak any day!

Jo

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2017, 18:23:13 PM »
Can you post a picture, please? Corsets are fairly easy to adjust in the bust, but adjustments depend on the type of corset (invisible boning or boning on the outside).
No slashing needed, as corsets have princess seams and at least 6 seams where you can adjust (not counting cf and cb as those are quite hard to adjust if you have a busk/eyelets).
Is it single or double layer?
If you are interested in corsets, there's a class on Crafsty (there I go again with the craftsy classes  :D) by Alison Smith called Sewing corsets I think. I just finished it yesterday and I learned a ton of stuff.
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.

Syrinx

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2017, 18:35:19 PM »
Haha! I'm happy to pay for someone to make me a corset! ;)

It's double layer and has lots of boning in it. It's very very boring and functional and it needs proper corset lacing. Fits lovely over the waist/hip bit. But it is a 37" where I'm a 34" and it probably wants to be a 33"? 32"? Not sure how much smaller than bust measurement it should be!

Syrinx

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2017, 18:42:15 PM »
So can't attach pictures on computer, only from phone!

Attached.

Jo

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2017, 18:47:01 PM »
Usually corsets have a 2 inch gap at the back, so should be a 32. That leaves you with a 5 inch difference you can spread between the panels.
Is the boning on the outside or on a separate layer on the inside? If on the outside, you will have to remove binding on top, boning and bone casings, adjust seam, sew back bone casing and boning and bind.
I told you about that course because it would be very useful to know how a corset is made to be able to alter one properly.
For lacing you can also use some ribbon, as long as you lace properly (tying at the waist) it should be fine.
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.

Syrinx

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2017, 18:59:17 PM »
Boning looks to be in channels inside the the two layers. I know roughly how they are made and could probably manage a basic one (with lots of cursing), but not one that would fit me great due to the short waist and big bust/waist/hip ratio (though not this big a bust!). I can't dart into the underarm section as the elastic is there for a reason (riding corset you see!). So would I be removing the 5" from the 4 front panels?

I was thinking of sewing my dart lines, sewing a V 1/4" between the lines, cutting down the middle of the stitching and trimming off excess and then overlapping and stitching the choped bits of dart together, and sew some ribbon over for extra support to the stitching and hide the "mess". Then no need to undo all the binding and channels etc. But not sure if I could get enough out of the front panels to not mess with the shape, or if I could do that on the front and next panel around?

Sew Curvy sell the nice cotton lacing for 35p a meter I think, so happy to grab some of that.

Just a tad annoyed it's so big at the bust! Not sure whether to kick up a nice sort or fuss or not, new supplier and whatnot.

Jo

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2017, 19:02:25 PM »
I'm on my phone and I'm not sure if what I see is actually there or just my imagination, so I will need you to confirm :) those are either flat felled seams or the boning is not applied to the seam but to the left and right and sewed in between the two layers (I'm thinking it's the latter).
If I'm right, you kinda need to pull apart about half of it.
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.

Jo

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2017, 19:19:11 PM »
Ok, moved to computer and looked at the pictures. Boning does indeed appear to be in between the two layers, so there's no need to make any casings :)
A 5 inch difference is quite a lot and I'm afraid it will look odd if you take it from 1 or 2 panels. The best way to remove extra fabric is at a seam (or seams in your case). I'm not sure how darts would work, because you might end up with a little pucker on the dart tip.
Seeing that your corset is 2 separate layers (as opposed to 2 layers treated as one), adjustments are not that complicated, but it's a bit more work.
If interested, let me know and I could write some steps. Mind you, this is all theory, I haven't actually altered any corset.
 
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.

Madame Cholet

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2017, 21:20:20 PM »
Here are some excellent links which I bookmarked a while back when I was researching corset making:

http://corsetmakers.livejournal.com/

http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/  and  https://www.foundationsrevealed.com/free

The first site has more or less come to a standstill these days, but remains a brilliant archive of corset-making advice, while the second site has some very informative articles.
I began but have yet to finish my first corset (... interrupted by a house move, most of my fabric stash and works-in-progress are still in unpacked boxes ...), so I don't have much experience to draw upon, but I second Jo's comment about spreading the reduction between panels.   
Hope the links are useful, and best of luck!


« Last Edit: June 24, 2017, 21:42:27 PM by Madame Cholet »

Syrinx

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2017, 21:46:52 PM »
It's a functional rather than aesthetic corset so little puckers would be fine. It fits great below the bust so I'm not really wanting to pull seams apart unless 100% necessary. Hence the slashed dart idea. There's plenty of fabric to take 2 inches out of the two front panels either side of the bust. Or 1 inch from both front and next panel over.

I don't know whether to contact the  person I got it from or not and see what they can do, but doubt it would be much other than order another one and hope for the best haha ;)

I'll keep looking at the links and general info, I don't know any corset experts unfortunately! So no handing it over and it coming back perfect ;) if it can be adjusted it will have to be me!
« Last Edit: June 24, 2017, 21:56:17 PM by Syrinx »

Jo

Re: Bust adjustment
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2017, 22:12:24 PM »
You don't have to pull apart the seams completly, just to the waist (or wherever you think good fit starts). But the boning has to be removed unfortunately.
Not talking about prettyness, but a good fit is achieved a certain way. A pucker is not a problem only esthetically with a corset. You will have it front and back and after some time it will dig in.
You could try a bridal shop if you don't want to do the alterations yourself. Most of them do alterations and are familiar with corsets.
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.