The Sewing Place

Modern Pants

suburban

Modern Pants
« on: August 12, 2022, 17:50:51 PM »
Hi,

I hemmed my brother's (casual) pants by hand as an exercise and noticed that "wrong side" of modern clothing is so different from years ago.  If you watch "Hemming pants by Hand" beginner tutorials on YouTube, they are always simple polycotton trousers with seams pressed open. However, the side seams in the pants I was hemming were so different.  One kind of ran down the side of the leg like a cord covered with many, many looping stitches. Perhaps that's an overlocker / overcast feature?  Forgive my ignorance.  I hope to be able to post a picture tomorrow to better illustrate my point.  You see, it's hard to learn or to access the right tutorial, when you don't even know what you're looking at.  Please help as he wants me to hem all his pants!  Thanks in advance.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2022, 18:40:24 PM »
An overlocked or serged side seam might look like this


Ouryve

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2022, 18:41:36 PM »
Just posted this pic in another thread.  They vary a bit,  depending on how many threads are used,  but this is what over locked seam finishes tend to look like. This stitch can also be used to stitch the seam.


If you need to unpick,  it's fairly straightforward. The stitches you need to break are the anchoring needle stitches that enclose the loops - they just look like a normal straight stitch from one side.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

SewRuthieSews

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2022, 18:41:48 PM »
If it is too bulky to just fold over and hem, you can snip into it at the fold line, and have some one way and some the other

SewRuthieSews

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2022, 18:43:20 PM »
Are you hemming by hand or machine, if by machine what sort of stitch are you using?

If you are not used to doing this it might get boring really quickly, perhaps suggest a local drycleaners or alterations place and get your brother to pay for it himself.

BrendaP

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2022, 23:44:42 PM »
I agree with the others that what you are describing is overlocked seams - or serged seams in American English.

I'm intrigued by your use of the word pants - and see that you are in Manchester; presumably Manchester England, but are you English? 

In England the word pants (in clothing) means underpants.  Outer garments to cover the legs separately are usually called trousers; possibly trews, slacks, chinos, jeans ... but not pants.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

suburban

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2022, 08:42:07 AM »
An overlocked or serged side seam might look like this




Yes, thank you. That's exactly what I meant.  I had an idea it was something to do with overlocking, but I just wasn't sure. 

suburban

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2022, 08:48:56 AM »
Just posted this pic in another thread.  They vary a bit,  depending on how many threads are used, but this is what over locked seam finishes tend to look like. This stitch can also be used to stitch the seam.


If you need to unpick,  it's fairly straightforward. The stitches you need to break are the anchoring needle stitches that enclose the loops - they just look like a normal straight stitch from one side.

Great thanks.  I now remember reading about overcast stitches years ago.  I think that's what you mean. 

suburban

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2022, 08:51:46 AM »
If it is too bulky to just fold over and hem, you can snip into it at the fold line, and have some one way and some the other


Ha! That's a good trick, I didn't think of that. However, with it running the length of the leg of the pants, I'd be worried that it would compromise the strength of the side seam. 

suburban

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2022, 08:56:13 AM »
Are you hemming by hand or machine, if by machine what sort of stitch are you using?

If you are not used to doing this it might get boring really quickly, perhaps suggest a local drycleaners or alterations place and get your brother to pay for it himself.

Honestly, I don't mind boring.  I'm simple-minded and doing something repeatedly sounds like my kind of fun. I might have given the wrong kind of vibe about my brother.  He didn't order me to hem his pants or anything, he's a nice person.  I've got time to spare and he cooks dinner every night, whilst I'm on a long visit.  I'd actually like to do it.  Also, it's a skill I should've mastered like - 40 years ago! 

suburban

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2022, 09:04:40 AM »
I agree with the others that what you are describing is overlocked seams - or serged seams in American English.

I'm intrigued by your use of the word pants - and see that you are in Manchester; presumably Manchester England, but are you English? 

In England the word pants (in clothing) means underpants.  Outer garments to cover the legs separately are usually called trousers; possibly trews, slacks, chinos, jeans ... but not pants.

Yes, I'm English. "Pants" is probably what I've picked-up watching American films / sewing tutorials.  It's a good thing we talk about definition - because I'm not sure which "trouser group", as it were, that I'm sewing.  Hoping to be able to post a picture soon, because I subscribed 24 hrs ago.  ( If I lapse into pants it's just shorthand )  So it's hard to know which tutorial to watch online.   

Renegade Sewist

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2022, 09:18:27 AM »
@suburban & @BrendaP it's all good. When you Google how to hem "two legged bottom coverings" , no matter what you call them you will get instructions on hemming pants. Why? Most of those videos and blog posts are by Americans. To us trousers, chinos, slacks, jeans, cullottes, pedal pushers, clam diggers, etc are all just variations of pants.

BTW when I Googled "trews" by hand London wanted to teach me how to both hem a kilt and sequined fabrics. Hmm, anyone for a sequined kilt?
Hey Bill! Read the manual!  Hehehe.

Lowena

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2022, 09:26:00 AM »
I hate the word pants....it's up there with " moist"
Triumph of hope over experience :D

Iminei

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #13 on: August 13, 2022, 09:32:48 AM »
@suburban  ... see those red dots underneath your name in your profile box ... that means you are a subscriber and are able to post pictures
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Modern Pants
« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2022, 10:20:26 AM »
I agree with the others that what you are describing is overlocked seams - or serged seams in American English.

I'm intrigued by your use of the word pants - and see that you are in Manchester; presumably Manchester England, but are you English? 

In England the word pants (in clothing) means underpants.  Outer garments to cover the legs separately are usually called trousers; possibly trews, slacks, chinos, jeans ... but not pants.

@BrendaP They are most definitely pants if you're from Manchester, Lancashire, and possibly more points north!!  I presume you're from darn sarf??