The Sewing Place

Help me make my origami top wearable

Ohsewsimple

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #30 on: June 29, 2017, 20:17:21 PM »
How much ease is there in the bodice?   I'm wondering if it needs more ease to allow the pleats to lie flat.   Personally I would still be using a fabric stay to stitch the back of the peats to.

Jo

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #31 on: June 29, 2017, 22:34:22 PM »
The sloper has about 2 cm of ease overall, so quite fitted. The more ease in the bodice, the better this design would work (in my head at least). But all the pictures online showed quite a fitted bodice, and that's what I was aiming for.
Anyway, I'm done trying to make it wearable: accidentally pulled some threads with sticky pins :( looks awful.

Missie

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #32 on: June 30, 2017, 11:19:21 AM »
The sloper has about 2 cm of ease overall, so quite fitted.

I think you will need to add more ease in.  For a normal top (ie not a very fitted, boned bodice type top) I was always taught that standard wearing ease is 5cm for bust and 1-2cm for waist.    I think perhaps that it isn't lying flat and "behaving nicely" as the lack of ease means the only way for the top to have enough movement room in it is for the pleats to open.

Lizzy777

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #33 on: June 30, 2017, 13:43:06 PM »
Jo, a couple of links which might help you to become sane again after this exercise 0_0.

I saw this on pinterest so thought I would dig deeper and see who had
made it.

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/351562314633713053/

http://fashion-incubator.com/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53/

http://fashion-incubator.com/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53-pt-2/


Thought it may help. I don't know if she has any more pages written on this but if you look on her archive then she does more on Japanese patterns.
The articles above were taken from her archive dated October 2011.

Lizzy





Jo

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #34 on: July 16, 2017, 07:50:05 AM »
Lizzy, thanks for the links. No idea why I didn't see them until now.
I've seen a ton of pictures with this bodice on a dress form. I didn't find it overly difficult on the dress form. But on me...different story. I followed Shingo Sato's method, which stresses the importance of making the tucks at least 8 cm wide, so I didn't have the "tucks too small problem". To be entirely honest, I did do a paper mockup of the Pattern Magic version with the small tucks and found it to be way too fiddly. But I suspect it adds a lot less ease than the 8 cm tucks version.
If you look closely at the pictures from fashion incubator, the armhole and shoulder area does have a lot more ease, which I don't particularly like for my frame (read hate), especially on fitted gaments. 5 cm of ease, for me, is 1 size too big. Standard doesn't really work for everyone, as I found out :(
Anyway, it was a great pattern drafting and construction excercise :)
I will give this another try at some point, but using fluting rather than changing the pattern.
I like Kenneth King's tutorial from Threads Magazine: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/34364/video-how-to-create-curved-tucks
This would be a lot easier to achieve :) and less frustrating.