The Sewing Place

Jacket finishing

b15erk

Jacket finishing
« on: September 20, 2022, 10:55:57 AM »
I'm just finishing my second coat/jacket.  It's a hack on the Pauline Alice Quart Coat, but leaving off the pleats.  I think I'll like it, as it will be warm, and suitable to wear with trousers.

However, I've hit a couple of problems as I approach the finish.  Firstly, I didn't make the same adjustments for the lining as I did for the rest of the jacket, so the lining is longer than the jacket, and not as well fitted as it might be.  I'm hanging it atm, but I think I'll need to be patient to get the lining to fit nicely without showing.

The most important problem I have is 'bounce' on the front seams.  Not sure if 'bounce' is the correct technical term, but the front and around the neck, is not lying as flat as it might.  I'm wondering if I could hand stitch it down any way, I've seen the finish on rtw, tiny stiches around the edge, but not sure what the stitch is called.  Any one of you lovely ladies have any help or advice? 

I also need to attach the lining in strategic places, but I think I'll just do some swing stiches to allow for movement - unless of course anyone knows of a better way...

Not such good pics as I took them at night, the jacket is more of a teal colour, but I think you can see where I've had to use clips on the seams.

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Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Elnnina

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2022, 11:48:18 AM »
Jessie one way of getting rid of the 'bounce' as you call it is by pressing, and using a wooden clapper if you have one, after steaming hold the clapper in place for a few seconds and the wood absorbs the steam and hey presto a flat seam.  However if you do not have a clapper use a new or extremely clean wooden rolling pin, (visit a pound shop) and do the same as for the clapper.  You can also beat the daylights out of a seam that won't comply and miracles happen.  However if you have never tried these techniques before, make up a seam using your fabric scraps (I hope you have some) and try on that first, also just by using a damp cloth over the fabric and pressing and using something wooden works wonders.

Regarding the lining requiring more fitting, is your daughter any good at pinning, if so put the jacket on inside out, and let her coax the lining into some vertical darts and pin them in place, and yes I know even on the lining that will be inside out, but if you get a better fit that way then it is easy to carefully mark where these new darts are going to be and then sew the darts on the wrong side.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Missie

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2022, 11:51:16 AM »
Hi Jessie,

Jacket looks lovely.  The stitch you are asking about is prick stitch.   It is essentially a back stitch but you don't go through all layers, ie you wouldn't go through to the lining.  You come up on the main fabric and do a tiny back stitch, couple of threads.  you then bring the needle forward about 1/4 inch going through the back of the fabric and then sew a back stitch and repeat.  To do what you are doing, I would go through the top layer and one of the seam allowances underneath but not through to the lining.  You can use normal thread, or for a more decorative approach 2 strands of embroidery thread, depending on if it will be on show and how much you want it to be seen.  Also make sure that you have given it a really good pressing, lots of steam and pressure.  Might be worth using a clapper if you have one.

Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2022, 11:54:43 AM by Missie »

Missie

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2022, 11:52:17 AM »
Not sure what happened here.  I ended up quoting myself so tried to delete but can't and have put this daft explanation!
« Last Edit: September 20, 2022, 11:55:50 AM by Missie »

b15erk

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2022, 13:39:19 PM »
Thank you both so much @Elnnina  and @Missie , I appreciate the advice.  I haven't got a clapper, but it may be time to buy one!  I do though have a steam generator iron, and have blasted steam onto the seams.

Pick Stitch!  That's what I need - why does my brain keep thinking prick stitch... :thinking:  Yes, I think that will do it, I'll give it a practise...

Last lap now, just ordered the snaps, and started the alteration on the lining.  Tonight, I'll have another go...

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2022, 18:25:32 PM »
@b15erk I'm assuming there’s polyester in the fabric?  That often causes problems with seams and bounce is one  of them.  Have you understitched the front?   

b15erk

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2022, 21:01:19 PM »
I think you are right about the polyester @Ohsewsimple , I've given it another press and it isn't much better.  I've done the jacket hem, and I've started catching the collar together - it's murder on the fingers, but it does look better.  Seam fronts next...

Then there is just the small matter of the lining hem, snaps and buttons - here's me thinking I was nearly finished!  :rolleyes:

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

BrendaP

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2022, 22:56:19 PM »
Pick Stitch!  That's what I need - why does my brain keep thinking prick stitch... :thinking: 

Because prick stitch is the correct name.

I have looked through several books from the shelf behind me.  Ann Ladbury, Alison Smith, McCalls ans Vogue/Butterick use the word prickstitch.  Only 'Threads' say pick stitch.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

b15erk

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2022, 08:25:53 AM »
Thank you @BrendaP !  I've just checked with the two books I use most often, and both Prickstitch and Pickstitch are mentioned - and seem to be two different stitches.  Pickstitch seems to be decorative rather than functional, and doesn't catch the underlayer of the fabric. 

Readers Digest calls them Prickstitch and Pickstitch, but Vogue says Prickstitch and Hand Pickstitch...

It's no wonder I'm confused...

I think the one I want is the one that catches both sides of the fabric - Prickstitch.  I'd better get practising! :rolleyes:

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Missie

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #9 on: September 21, 2022, 11:24:19 AM »
I think the one I want is the one that catches both sides of the fabric - Prickstitch.  I'd better get practising! :rolleyes:

Jessie

I've used prickstitch to sew in a zip on a vintage-style dress and I've also used it to tame fabric on a boned bodice.  Just make sure that you only catch the underlayers and not the lining.  I think it is rather a beautiful stitch, simple yet functional.  Don't overthink it, it really is quite easy, you just need to make sure that you get the spacing the same.

b15erk

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2022, 09:39:25 AM »
Very quickly before I go to DD's, a couple of pics of my new jacket.

I'm pleased with it, and it will be great for pairing with trousers, but I am aware of it having little 'hanger appeal'.

The hardest part of this was the hand stitching to finish - my fingers are sooo sore!  I hope it's made a difference to how it looks at the front.

This is a lovely pattern, but on balance I prefer the original with pleats - still my favourite coat.  This was a hack which was done shorter to fit onto the available fabric.  Note to self, double check all measurements - particularly lining, as it caused me problems when hemming.

I've done snaps at the front again because I like them, and because I'm not yet confident enough to do buttonholes.

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Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Diane

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2022, 09:45:35 AM »
Beautiful jacket @b15erk , i love the colour and you always finish the garment off so beautifully with the hanging tab and contrast pocket linings  :perfect10:
I’m a fabricholic on the road to recovery. Just kidding. I’m on the road to the fabric store.

Janome Memory Craft Horizon 9450QCP, Janome 4300QDC, Overlocker Brother 1034d, Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 40

Nevis5

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2022, 10:30:34 AM »
That's fantastic, @b15erk   !  You got the collar flattened nicely then?   I STILL want to make that pattern, I love the pleats too!

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2022, 10:43:29 AM »
That looks lovely.  The collar sits beautifully, I really like the asymmetric look.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Jacket finishing
« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2022, 12:02:45 PM »
Well that’s looking much better.  Worth the effort even if your fingers hurt! :)