The Sewing Place

Overlocking

Ellabella

Overlocking
« on: November 20, 2022, 12:39:23 PM »
I am about to sew https://sinclairpatterns.com/products/sofia-shawl-collar-classic-sweater-pdf?_pos=1&_sid=fd493386e&_ss=r  out of a very scrumptious sweater knit.

I’ve fired up the O/L and just sewn a test piece.  It’s quite a thick fabric and when I take it out of the machine the seam is quite wavy but it presses flat.

Do I need to alter the differential feed?  I’m worried that the waviness will come back when I wear it but have never needed to touch the differential feed and am scared of messing things up. I had a smashing book that explained everything but I let someone borrow, it never to be seen again :rant:
« Last Edit: November 20, 2022, 13:07:36 PM by Ellabella »

SewRuthieSews

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2022, 12:46:52 PM »
sounds like it'd be worth trying the differential feed on a couple of scraps.
I can never remember which way is what, so I just get a few bits of the leftover fabric, whizz it to one extreme, try iy, then the other extreme try it again then pick the least wavy outcome.
I try not to press knits too much as sometimes they dont recover from it

Ouryve

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2022, 12:53:31 PM »
Bernie has handy pics on her differential knob. Smaller number to squish, larger to stretch - so you want to turn it down.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

Helen M

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2022, 12:59:15 PM »
Which overlocker do you have @Ellabella? I'd say you need to turn it up from 1.0 which is normal to maybe 1.5 as you actually want to 'gather' the fabric slightly. Try some scraps though.
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far:  3.0 metres  ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 72

Ellabella

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2022, 13:06:41 PM »
@Helen M I’ve got a  Babylock Imagine, which is probably why I’ve never had to fiddle with anything.

@Ouryve squishing it is then.

Ouryve

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2022, 13:35:46 PM »
And @Helen M is right - the squish direction is a bigger number when you turn it.  :thinking:
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

SewRuthieSews

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #6 on: November 20, 2022, 15:14:24 PM »
Bernie has handy pics on her differential knob. Smaller number to squish, larger to stretch - so you want to turn it down.
Funnily enough my Bernina 800DL has exactly the same symbols, but I have the machine to my right with that bit away from me and hadn't remembered they were there!

Helen M

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #7 on: November 20, 2022, 15:36:58 PM »
My dials are on the front of my ancient Brother @Ouryve, but I always have to look at the symbols to see which way I need to push the dial, even after 30 years!
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far:  3.0 metres  ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 72

Ellabella

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #8 on: November 20, 2022, 16:51:14 PM »
Well it turns out I have similar symbols,  :facepalm: 

I had to go to 1.8 and lengthen the stitch to get a good seam and I had to go very steadily when I was sewing over 4 layers of fabric but everything seems fine.

I just need to give the bottom band a final press, after my coffee.

I might even wear it tonight for the pub quiz, it’s very snuggly.

BrendaP

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #9 on: November 20, 2022, 17:13:11 PM »
If it's coming out wavy you've got too may stitches for the length of fabric, so yes you do need to adjust the differential.

 
I can never remember which way, but the fabric needs to feed through a bit faster.  Jut play with scraps of fabric.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Stitchalot

Re: Overlocking
« Reply #10 on: November 20, 2022, 18:09:18 PM »
When the differential feed is correct, the seam will lay flat on a table, without being gathered or stretched. Keep testing on scraps. I find most jerseys need some positive diff feed on my machine.