The Sewing Place

Under collar of a jacket

Fabric Lover

Under collar of a jacket
« on: February 02, 2023, 15:25:16 PM »
I'm making a moto style jacket using McCalls 7694 https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/87927
The surprising thing is that the under collate isn't cut on the fold but is cut in two on the bias. Does anyone know what might be the reason for this? I've cut the rest of the jacket out and am finally making some progress with it but haven't cut the last piece out yet since I've been wondering about this. The fabric is a cream check bouclé.
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Ploshkin

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2023, 15:39:34 PM »
I think an undercollar on the bias is often used in tailored garments presumably to give better shape to the collar as the fabric will have more flexibility.
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Missie

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2023, 15:47:39 PM »
I think an undercollar on the bias is often used in tailored garments presumably to give better shape to the collar as the fabric will have more flexibility.

Yes, and to help in bend more/better as it folds back on itself.

Fabric Lover

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2023, 16:06:53 PM »
Oh okay that makes sense, thanks @Ploshkin and @Missie I feel happier now that I understand why it's cut like that.
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

Gernella

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2023, 18:06:58 PM »
I've actually made this pattern @Fabric Lover but unfortunately as not recent I can't even remember it being on the bias but it did turn out well, although if there is a next time I might cut out the dip at the back.
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Ohsewsimple

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2023, 18:28:54 PM »
Details like this always say to me that it’s a well thought out pattern.  I hope it is.  Look forward to seeing your progress.

Fabric Lover

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2023, 21:48:35 PM »
I've actually made this pattern @Fabric Lover but unfortunately as not recent I can't even remember it being on the bias but it did turn out well, although if there is a next time I might cut out the dip at the back.
The only change I'm making to the back is to take out the inverted pleat. I'm putting shoulder pads too, which the pattern doesn't include.
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

Fabric Lover

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2023, 00:36:25 AM »
Details like this always say to me that it’s a well thought out pattern.  I hope it is.  Look forward to seeing your progress.
@Ohsewsimple - I think the pattern in general is well thought out, except for the fact that it didn't allow for shoulder pads. I had to adjust the shoulder seam slightly and armscye to allow a little extra room for them. I'm not keen on jackets without them.

Progress photos tomorrow.
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

toileandtrouble

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2023, 05:13:05 AM »
The undercollar in two bias pieces means the  twist of the bias will balance out. Remember how some looser fabrics tend to go off square.
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SewRuthieSews

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2023, 09:51:20 AM »
I've made this pattern and the collar part worked well.

I had terrible trouble with the welt pockets though, managed the first one fine. Then tried to follow the same instructions again and ended up with a pocket that went upwards. I recut the front and did zipped pockets instead!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2023, 11:45:33 AM »
@Fabric Lover i suspect there was no allowance for shoulder pads because of the type of jacket.  It’s a casual jacket so I wouldn’t expect to find them on that sort of garment.  But nothing wrong in putting them in if that’s what you prefer!

Fabric Lover

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2023, 16:27:24 PM »
I've made this pattern and the collar part worked well.

I had terrible trouble with the welt pockets though, managed the first one fine. Then tried to follow the same instructions again and ended up with a pocket that went upwards. I recut the front and did zipped pockets instead!
@SewRuthieSews - I didn’t fancy doing welt pockets with this fabric, it is a very loose weave and frays like the devil so I chickened out of that challenge. I did consider putting in side seam pockets but forgot about that when cutting out!
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

Fabric Lover

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #12 on: February 07, 2023, 16:29:08 PM »
Progress photos   [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

Fabric Lover

Re: Under collar of a jacket
« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2023, 16:32:05 PM »
Second try.   [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)