Marfy patterns?

[elisep]

I've done a bit of a google and can't find much really, on the Marfy patterns. I really would love to make this;
http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-2745.html

But as they are a single size, I am a bit worried about what to expect. Normally I chose my size based on the finished garment measurements as I find most of the "big 4" companies use ridiculous amounts of ease. Has anyone used Marfy before and is the amount of ease ok?
I'm aware that they don't include seam allowances or instructions, that won't bother me.

Thanks in advance!

[Morgan]

The dress and/or the jacket?
Both are fairly form fitting.
The Jacket appears to have a slightly extended shoulder line and will possibly be designed to have shoulder pads - you can check that and alter or adjust the shoulder, armscye and sleeve for what you want.

Either way I suggest you choose the size according to your high bust measurement and make the FBA or SBA and other adjustments where needed. 


Both jacket and dress will be fairly closely fitted as they're based on blocks that are drafted based on a classically European drafting method.  The dress will be form fitting so standard minimal wearing ease at bust waist and hips.

If making the jacket, do check the sleeves especially if your arms are not slender.  Generally I prefer to add about 2cm and sometimes a bit more into the sleeve width.  As I have proportionately short arms compared with my standard size, usually I have to take about 1.5cm out of the length of the upper arm and the same out of the lower arm (about 3 - 5cm overall).



I keep the original Marfy pattern as is, copy it onto pattern paper or tissue and make my adjustments on the copy.
this is a jacket with a similar fit to the one you're looking at and when you look at the pattern pieces laid out for a toile you can see that the main adjustments I made were FBA (for C/D cup) and increase the sleeve width.
This was for Marfy 1625 and the photos show the toile (which I ended up wearing) but you see it on the dress form without the thin shoulder pads which were needed.



If you make the dress, I recommend strongly that you make a toile.  I made Marfy 2733 (sorry no photos) with a similar complex princess line dart and depending on what your fitting issues are it's really wise to check the adjustments on this type of design with a toile.  Double check it for when sitting down.   Making a toile also gave me the opportunity to remove the CF dart detail on mine.
With Princess line dart styles, it's best to get the back fitting perfectly first - correct length to waist and correct fit at waist and hips on the back.  Then tackle the front and get the bust fit and front drape correct.  This style is fitted into the waist at the sides, but the front panel drops off the bust.  Don't be tempted to over fit.
Also, try out a couple of inside corner sewing techniques in advance of doing the real thing.

Good luck and enjoy

[Manuela]

I usec to Marfy patterns so far, a jeans and a blouse pattern (sorry, don't remember the numbers) and have a coat oattern I really want to make (and need to find a reason for  ).
My experience with them was a very positive one. I made muslins for both of them, the changes were minimal (I'm 1.72, short waisted, 34DD cup, UK size 12 at M&S), which translates to Marfy's size 46. As mentioned by Morgan, go by your upper bust measurement, I had to do a minimal FBA.
The patterns are very well drafted, but keep in mind that there are no instructions.

[elisep]

Thanks Morgan and Manuela! I was looking at the jacket as I rather like those pleats! I've only done 1 FBA before and that was a couple of years ago... so looks like I'll be doing a bit of research first!

I think I'll go ahead and order the pattern... and add it to my long list of projects! Geez Marfy have some nice designs... hope this one goes well as there's plenty of others I'd like to add to my collection!

[Maximum]

https://clothingengineer.com/2016/03/16/marfy-patterns-a-primer/
Try the above site - she has made several Marfy patterns and illustrates and explains the process really well. I've never tried Marfy but wish I had when younger and had the figure for it!

[elisep]

Thanks Maximum! That's a really helpful link 

[b15erk]

I've just been on the Marfy website, and downloaded a Jacket and a Top pattern in multi sized Pdf, for Free!

http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-gratis-1756.html

And very nice they are too!

Jessie

[Manuela]

Marfy's catalogues usully include a number of free patterns - just saying 

[DaisyChain]

Hi,
I was going to suggest trying the free patterns but Jessie beat me to it! 
I’ve made a few Marfy patterns & I really like them. I’ve made the free skirt pattern several times.

Marfy's catalogues usully include a number of free patterns - just saying 

Yes Manuela, they do!

And way back in January they had a free postage offer on their Evergreen catalogue so I ordered one.

 http://www.marfy.it/marfy-evergreen-catalog.html

It comes with 10 multi-sized patterns which you can trace off the same as those from Burda magazines.  So far I’ve made jacket/cardy 5008 & skirt 0508. I’m hoping to make the loose fitting shirt when I get some spare time.  I’d also like to make the dress but after looking at the pattern I think that will take quite a bit of ‘tweeking’ to achieve a decent fit!

I have to alter most patterns so I expected to alter these but I did find their block to be slightly different to what I’m used to. I think they’re drafted for quite tall galls, perhaps 5ft 8??? They also have very small waists, slim hips  & definitely don’t cater for a ‘mummy tummy’. 
I’m sure I read somewhere that they draft for a C cup. I didn’t do an FBA on the cardy but I’d have to if I made the dress. They also have slim arms, which I like. Oh, and they seem to be long waisted.

I recently bought:

 http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-1912-pdf.html
It was on offer, but I haven’t printed it out yet!!

If you don’t mind printing & sticking pdfs it might be worthwhile buying one of these first before you commit to a single size paper pattern. Perhaps something like this sheath dress would give you a good indication of their block’s proportions in relation to your body shape.

http://www.marfy.it/cartamodello-4109-pdf-en.html

Good luck and happy Sewing.