The Sewing Place

Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams

ClareInStitches

Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« on: July 06, 2017, 13:20:47 PM »
Hi Folks,

I am puzzled about why stabilising tape is attached to the back bodice piece.

Here is an excerpt from the Grainline Studio Lark Tee instructions:
" •....You can stabilise the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out over time by ironing on a strip of seam tape interfacing. This goes on the wrong side of your fabric, on the back bodice, within the seam allowance but extending over where the seam will be sewn."

If you press the shoulder seam to the back, doesn't this make it more bulky? Often I'll top stitch it too, so more bulk.

I generally attach it to the seam allowance of the front pattern piece, so that it lays to the back.

Many thanks for your thoughts,

Clare

Surest1tch

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2017, 13:24:35 PM »
My guess is it's done in a stretch fabric, without seeing the pattern or fabric that's all I can think.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2017, 14:25:11 PM »
My guess is so that it,s not visible.  I think they are all done this way.

Holly Berry

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2017, 14:42:02 PM »
I was taught this way because the back shoulder flexes more than the front and therefore overtime the back is more likely to go out of shape and stretch. The back shoulder is usually wider than the front, especially these days as more people have rounder shoulders from sitting at computers, therefore if pressed to the front may not fit snugly into the sleeve or could cause irritation in the hollow at the front of the shoulder.

At the end of the day though you can do what ever you are comfortable with. Instead of stay tape I use strips of fusible knit interfacing. It's much lighter and less bulky. I use on both woven or knits.
Procrastination get behind me

maliw

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2017, 16:21:38 PM »
I stabilise all the shoulder seems on the tops I make with stretch fabric. I use a thin ribbon or tape - cut from bought tops, cardigans etc. My overlocker has an opening in the presser foot that this tape will feed through so I can sew and stabilise at the same time. The seam may be a bit thicker than usual but it doesn't make an awful lot of difference.
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

BrendaP

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2017, 17:00:12 PM »
I use thin ribbon too, and posiiton it so that it gets overlocked an trimmed.  It really doesn't add much bulk.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2017, 19:43:22 PM »
I stabilise all the shoulder seems on the tops I make with stretch fabric. I use a thin ribbon or tape - cut from bought tops, cardigans etc. My overlocker has an opening in the presser foot that this tape will feed through so I can sew and stabilise at the same time. The seam may be a bit thicker than usual but it doesn't make an awful lot of difference.
Oooh, I must look at my overlocker presser foot - what make is yours?

ClareInStitches

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2017, 15:33:11 PM »
Thank you, everyone.  I take you point about the back stretching more, Holly Berry.

I must do some experimenting.

Clare.

maliw

Re: Where to Stabilise Shoulder seams
« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2017, 17:00:51 PM »
I've got a Babylock and hadn't even noticed the hole in the foot until I was watching something on You Tube about sewing knits I think and the technique was shown. I went and looked at my overlocker and hey presto there was a hole, so now that is what I use when stabilising the shoulder seams.
At leisure on the leisure penninsula