Making my own Patterns (help and critique)

[Lyn-J]

I can't find anything I like in my normal brand of Patterns, so I thought I would try and make my own.  I have have Vogue's Shell patterns (1003 & 1004) in sizes 12 & 18 and two books on flat pattern drafting. What could possibly go wrong.
(Have Vogue completely lost the plot, its either summer dresses or downright quirky?)

My brief history is I was a size 22 for a while, dieted, went down to 12  Then I had to take meds and put on a couple of stone  (ok cream cakes didn't help with that). Bone structurally in think I am a size 12 and my vertical measurement match up to a 12. Width wise I'm a 14/16 but most of my weight is on my tummy, so totally out of proportion. My waist is a size 20    I'm hoping to get back to a size 12.
Whilst I've been doing all this measuring up I've found out my arms and legs are in the wrong place!! I thought when I was a 12 I fitted it straight out of the box, just having to watch the length of trousers, but no, my knees, ankles, wrists and elbows are all wrong 

My first "Good Idea" was to superimpose my 12 & 18 blocks onto a sheet of tissue (blue and brown felt tip) and then use green for the lines for my final version. I now have something that resembles a Burda pattern, but twice as confusing. I'm just going to do it again just marking what I will use in black.

I'm not planning on making anything fitted just yet, I don't think that would be a good look on me. Simple elastic waists and the like will do for now.

I would appreciate any help and advice as I vaven't got a clue what I'm doing 

[Jo]

First of all, there is no right and wrong we're moving, flesh and blood humans, not dress forms.
I've started a topic regarding my pattern drafting journey which you can read [u=http://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,1300.0.html]here[/u].
I recommend Suzy Furrer's drafting classes as they really help you understand pattern alterations too.
I find it harder to work from standard patterns to create your own sloper, as we all have figure variations, but it can be done if you understand what you are doing, why certain fit issues appear and how to correct them.
I do like Suzy's classes, but find the block she is using a bit lacking in some areas, especially dart sizing, at least for my body (she uses the same waist dart size in the front and back).

[Holly Berry]

Making your own blocks is the way to go, because your figure is the one being used.

Although I did an adult education course many years ago, I started to draft my own blocks a couple of years ago, basically starting from scratch. I used The Natalie Bray books, Dress Pattern Designing and More Dress Pattern Designing. They may seem old fashioned, but she explains why things are done in a certain way. I also have Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women, but it doesn't quite work for me in the way the Bray books do.

I've found pattern drafting fascinating and has helped me understand how to adapt patterns along with the Palmer Pletsch book Fit For Real People. There is still a big degree of fitting even after making your blocks, and making toiles essential.

I've not seen the Suzy Furrers class but it may be the way to go if you like visual instructions. The best way is to attend a class, but unfortunately these are hard to find and can be quite expensive, but you do have someone to ask if you get stuck.

Once you've got your blocks I would recommend Helen Joseph-Armstrong's Pattern Making for Fashion Design, as her designs are much more modern than Natalie Bray. I don't like her block drafting methods though and find her instructions difficult to follow, it may be because it's more a text book to be used in conjunction with a course ??

Pattern drafting is possible to teach yourself, but I've not found it to be a quick fix to the dearth of commercial patterns available. I have found it invaluable though in understanding how 2D flat patterns become 3D clothes that fit, and really enjoy it, almost more than the sewing now 

I'd say have a go 

[jen]

I'd advise arming yourself with a full set of measurements and comparing those to the measurements of the block you think of using. I have never used commercial shell patterns, so I have no idea if they come with a comprehensive set of measurements to base a comparison on. Generally, I draft from scratch using either Winnie or N.Bray, or, as a short cut, use one of the blocks in a standard size which is closest to the required measurements, fiddle with it, then cut it out in a calico, fit it, and transfer any alterations back to the block. You can fit yourself with any basic shape block or pattern to get your personal block. The purpose of drafting it from scratch to your own measurements is to cut down a bit on the fitting. BTW always get the bodice block fitted before trying to draft or fit the sleeves in it.

[Lyn-J]

Thanks Jo, Holly and Jen
Jo, your thread inspired me to have another go at drafting.
I have Helen JA's book and years back I tried drafting from that. There was a peculiar diagonal line that didn't meet up, it was inches out! I was very overweight at the time and it made me feel really bad about myself.
I have two of Winnie's books and have drafted a child's dress from scratch. I don't have any of Natalie's books - yet
The reason I chose the Vogue shell is there are a lot of instructions, 12 pages, on how to fit. You start off with a basic size the tweak it to make it your own. These changes can then be transferred back to any Vogue Pattern and you will have a perfect fitting garment (in theory). You measure yourself, make changes to the tissue, cut out in fabric and then fine tune.
I have a notebook I'm keeping to keep a record of everything I do, measurements, changes, designs etc.
I have made the trousers, I left out the front darts and only did one dart at the the back, because I thought that it would be best for my large abdomen. For the first fitting you try on half the trousers, this makes it easy to see if the crotch seam is correct. As I miscalculate the changes I made to the inner thigh seam everything was distorted hip, waist, crotch, length - everything. Correcting that seam made such a big difference, I couldn't believe the effect it had! Walking through the fitting stages on the pattern was quite easy, I had to let out the side seams and raise the front waistband.
Here's a pic of them finished.
TrousersShell_001 by Lyn-J, on Flickr
Cringe - my sewing needs to be more accurate!

I should have gone on to raise the entire waistband about an inch and taken in the side seams a smidgen. I didn't because I liked the way they fitted: the legs felt right, the waistband was flattering and didn't make me look all tummy. I thought this was an excellent jumping off point for my own designs.
Really pleased with the results! I wish I had done this years ago. A real confidence booster to wearing trousers, I feel and look a much more normal shape.

I'm working on the dress shell now, don't think this is going to be as easy.

[jen]

This looks to be going very well. When your block is fitted and you've transferred the alterations to the pattern any good drafting book will help you through style adaptations. HJA is comprehensive, but I agree about the blocks - not impressed. There are also quite a few pattern books online in library collections. If you can visualise the minor changes which you need to update the styles they show most of these books are ok.

[Marniesews]

Looking good, and shows confidence to start with trousers too!

Another vote for Suzy Furrer here - I just wish she did more on drafting for stretch knit fabrics. I've just watched Judy Jackson's Craftsy course for basic knit slopers and was very pleased although I'm not keen on the drafting technique for the basic bodice as it requires you to stick pins right through the mannequin and that would be me – mine won't take pins and is a general adjustable type so not identical.

I have a couple of Natalie Bray books, not modern styles but surprising how many are usable – lots on ebay at cheap prices.  I've attached a copy of the Harriet Pepin book that Hevsi held in such high regard too, if you're interested.

Just pinned a full tummy adjustment yesterday that may be useful for you if you need more space on another pattern. Collette Patterns: trouser front adjustments

Looking forward to seeing the final trousers. 

[Lyn-J]

Thanks for the references  Marniesews. The pdf is downloaded for a good read later.

(Is it me or does modern seem like an old fashioned word?)

I've got my dress block cut out and I've  traced all the markings with machine stitching, that took forever, and now I've set that aside as I want new trousers for this weekend. These will have elastic at the back waist, no darts. I'm going to have curvy jeans style pocket at the front - is there a name for these? I'm using HJA for guidance on the pockets.