The Sewing Place

Advice re neck gaphosis

Swisslass

Advice re neck gaphosis
« on: July 15, 2017, 19:36:43 PM »
I'm making Simplicity https://www.simplicitynewlook.com/3833/ I made a toile which was ok then cut into the 'good stuff'  😄

To get this to fit I've had to bodge the bodice, I've moved the darts further out and had to shorten them, I've taken in both sides under the arms by 1cm; this left me with bagginess in the armhole shoulder area so a slide of the shoulder seams got rid of this - But now I've got a neckline that gapes - how do I get rid of this? To get this to lie flat i would have to pinch out about 1cm. Would lowering the neckline get rid of this?
I'd like to think I was inspired, but maybe sewing is just hard wired

Efemera

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2017, 20:20:02 PM »
I have this problem all the time.. the toile fits but the the real thing leaves a baggy neck.the only thing I thought of is to take off the facing and make two small darts either side.... haven't done it yet but am going to because it irritates the life out of me..next time I'm going to redraw the cf taking around a half inch from the front neck.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2017, 20:37:45 PM »
Could it be that you didn't staystitch the necklines?
Simple remedies include running a row of small hand stitches on the inside and pulling them up slightly to ease the excess in.  Or use an elastic stay which is what I have done several times for various reasons including on knitwear when my mum makes my necks too big! :P
Instructions here on page 137
https://issuu.com/evgeniabaitanaeva/docs/couture-sewing-techniques-claire-sh

Catllar

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2017, 22:09:21 PM »
Ooo - I must have a look at the CS solution - I've got that book but rarely consult it.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Efemera

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2017, 22:38:32 PM »
Usually stay stitch..no idea why when the toile is ok the real thing isn't...different fabrics I suppose.

Swisslass

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2017, 06:39:36 AM »
I staystitched and understitched the neckline.
The problem is the toile fabric, - I used some old linen and it must be more drapey than this cotton I've used for the dress.
The neck is not laying flat because of all the alts I've made.
I'd like to think I was inspired, but maybe sewing is just hard wired

Jo

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2017, 07:18:24 AM »
The only way I know to alter this is at the pattern stage, by making the back neckline a tad wider than the front so when sewn it pulls the front and doesn't allow it to gape.
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.

Holly Berry

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2017, 14:59:35 PM »
The only way I know to alter this is at the pattern stage, by making the back neckline a tad wider than the front so when sewn it pulls the front and doesn't allow it to gape.

I notice that the dress has darts on the back neckline. Try unpicking them and see if Jo's suggestion works, it may not be enough, but worth a try.

Alternatively or as well try steaming the front neck to shrink it. I often steam shrink on curved seams or facings to avoid little tucks.

Another remedy if you don't want to use elastic, is take the facing off, put 2 or even 3 small darts in the neck. Then make a new facing, cut from a pattern piece that has the darts made up before cutting the fabric. Then apply the facing to the outside of the neck instead of the inside, making a feature of the facing and hiding the darts.

It may not work but worth a try.
Procrastination get behind me

Jo

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2017, 17:45:03 PM »
Holly, not sure that would work, as that would also add a lot more lenght to the back neckline.
But how about some short neckline darts in the front?
Dogs have owners. Cats have staff.

Holly Berry

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2017, 21:24:29 PM »
Holly, not sure that would work, as that would also add a lot more lenght to the back neckline.
But how about some short neckline darts in the front?

Yes that's what I meant by putting the facing on the outside to hide the darts in the front neckline. I agree with you though it has to be rectified at the pattern stage.

I'm one of those people who has to work things out,love this kind of thing  best way to learn  :)
  • Jo likes this
Procrastination get behind me

Swisslass

Re: Advice re neck gaphosis
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2017, 16:33:54 PM »
 >:) here is the adjusted product - I made the shoulders narrower and took a scoop out of the neckline. I also lowered the neck on the back as I thought it sat too far up my neck.
It's far from perfect, it gapes around the armholes, and the neckline front and back do not quite lie flat enough for my liking, though they might look better after a wash and a good press. I had to bind the neck and armholes as I have no more of this fabric left.
I'm just going to leave it, I love this fabric and the more I play around with the fit the less likely I am to wear it. I need to adjust the pattern and make another toile before I make it up again.
I'd like to think I was inspired, but maybe sewing is just hard wired