The Sewing Place

Bust fitting resources

Roger

Bust fitting resources
« on: October 23, 2017, 15:29:04 PM »
Hi,
I was thinking of buying a book about lingerie fitting, to help me fit the Mrs’ belly dance tops but the couple I looked at seemed to deal with common sizing, so I’m looking for resources for the bustier lass (32FF)

Any advice or pointers gratefully received!

Thank you

Roger
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

CarolC

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2017, 17:18:34 PM »
Hello! It is a full bust adjustment or FBA you need, since, as you've discovered, most patterns are sized for a B/C cup and the books aren't much help. There used to be a whole FBA sub thread in the pattern strand of TSF, but I don't think one has developed here yet, although there are some individual threads.

Here is one tutorial, but there are lots of others out there all along more or less the same lines.
http://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/

Roger

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2017, 21:03:12 PM »
Thank you Carole, even having a proper term is really helpful!

I started reading the link you suggested last night and it was really helpful!
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

sewingj

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2017, 08:19:13 AM »
Could I put in a word for those of us who are less well endowed?
  There seem to be lots of tutorials for FBA but very little for a Small Bust Adjustment.  Instructions often just say "do the opposite to a FBA" - which is not much help to a novice fitter like me - especially if you have a style which isn`t totally straightforward

If anyone knows of a good tutoria it would be much appreciated

Missie

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2017, 08:35:03 AM »
If anyone knows of a good tutoria it would be much appreciated

There are lots of tutorials around, have a google as I saw mention of one on a princess seam but here is a basic one:
https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2017/08/small-bust-adjustment/

Might also be worth having a look at the Threads site as you can get some free access tutorials as well.


sewingj

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2017, 10:52:07 AM »
Thanks - I tend to go for princess, or empire line (to skim my tummy!) so perhaps I need to be more specific when I google

Sewbee

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2017, 14:14:43 PM »
That curvy sewing collection site is very good. Since the Big M my bust has increased so I will also have to do an FBA in anything I make now.

CarolC

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2017, 17:48:55 PM »
Could I put in a word for those of us who are less well endowed?
  There seem to be lots of tutorials for FBA but very little for a Small Bust Adjustment.  Instructions often just say "do the opposite to a FBA" - which is not much help to a novice fitter like me - especially if you have a style which isn`t totally straightforward

If anyone knows of a good tutoria it would be much appreciated

Here's another one that shows both full and small bust adjustments. https://mellysews.com/2015/09/how-to-do-a-bust-adjustment.html

For what it's worth, I'm pretty small (A/B) and I find that it's not so much the cup size as the vertical position of the bust point and corresponding darts that is usually wrong for me.

If I take about ¼"-½" out horizontally above the bustline (Vogue and some others have an adjustment line there) without changing anything else, this is often enough to get the whole thing to fit properly as the standard cup size (B) isn't far off. To measure the bust point, go shoulder point to, err, nipple, and compare to the pattern. It's a measurement that usually doesn't get ease or other adjustments so you can go straight from body to pattern.

I'm also fairly from short neck to waist so I don't need to put the length back in just above the waist, but others might. If I don't do this adjustment, things are oddly tight in the bust, but baggy below it.

The more complicated styles like princess often say you can't do above waist adjustment, but you can - line up the pieces on the seam lines and make your own horizontal line, then smooth out any little bumps in the seam lines, making sure they are the same length as appropriate when you're done.

 :flower: :flower:
« Last Edit: October 26, 2017, 17:51:26 PM by CarolC »

Holly Berry

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2017, 18:24:41 PM »
A book I would highly recommend is Fit for Real People by Palmer Pletsch. I have found this is by far the most comprehensive and easy to understand for a wide range of fitting adjustments on commercial patterns. Also if several adjustments are required it gives the sequence as often an alteration for another fitting issue can impact on the one you initially need.

Procrastination get behind me

Roger

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #9 on: October 29, 2017, 23:06:18 PM »
Thanks aHolly, that’s really helpful, I like a good book!
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

Elnnina

Re: Bust fitting resources
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2017, 12:18:05 PM »
Roger may I recommend Full Busted by Marta Alto, a DVD, but it sort of goes with the book Fit for Real People, and Marta clearly shows you exactly how to do the FBA (Full Bust Alteration), she is using patterns from the Palmer Pletsch for McCalls, (some are out of date but available at a cost in the USA) and also some ordinary patterns.  However when using the Palmer Pletsch patterns for McCalls, the extra lines she mentions are already pre printed on the tissue, so it makes it much easier to follow what she is doing (hence it is worthwhile seeking these out of print but factory folded patterns in the US – look for the pattern numbers on the tissue pattern as Marta is working).  Also Marta is tissue fitting on real people, on herself, on a young full busted lass, some older well endowed ladies.  The beauty of this DVD is that you can stop and start as many times as you like, rewind and go over and over a particular area if necessary and it is like having Marta in the room with you.  Marta also covers a wide variety of bodice styles, a wrap fronted top, a princess seamed blouse, a strapless top, a side panelled jacket, oh there are all sorts of different styles on this DVD, and really well worth the cost involved.  I got mine from Book Depository, excellent service not only for the DVD but for books as well.

Good luck with sorting this out and I hope you are able to create the garment your wife is seeking.