The Sewing Place

Shelf Bras

Alykatnz

Shelf Bras
« on: November 01, 2017, 22:06:19 PM »
Hi everyone from NZ where it is a beautiful sunny day today!  :D  I haven't been on TSP much since I registered, for one reason and another, but had a big catch up read over the last few days which made me feel "at home" again  <3  Anyway to the shelf bra . . .

I'm making a leotard for a teen with a 90cm (35.5 inch) bust and a DD cup. Thankfully I saved from TSF the wonderful SewCrazy's info so I know most of what I need to know. I know I need to dart the shelf . . . but how wide do I make the dart and how long? I was thinking 1.5 - 2cms wide (roughly 1/2" to 7/8th" google tells me) and around 6cms long (2 1/2 inches). I've draughted the sides 12.5cm (5 inches). Does all this seem about right? More than happy to be corrected!

It is going to be a full shelf bra, front and back, of powernet so I plan to stitch the bra side seams together and attach it at the top and armhole edges leaving it free from the side seams of the leotard. I haven't done a full shelf bra before but it's what I've seen inside some cami tops. Hope this all makes sense. It does in my head. 

Off to  :snip:  the fronts and backs of the leo and lining. Night if you're off to bed. Gidday if you're getting up!

Thanks for any help.

Ali
Be true to yourself

Yellowfeather

Re: Shelf Bras
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2017, 12:14:31 PM »
Sounds about right to me.  I just usually do it by trial and error, as i think it is  personal preference thing for the wearer.
As for the side seams, do what you have suggested, as if you attach the bra shelf to the side seam, it will pull them differently and end up causing wrinkles.

Alykatnz

Re: Shelf Bras
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2017, 21:35:58 PM »
Thanks, YF! Good to know I was on the right track. With leaving the side seams of bra free from the main layer I was thinking of the bulky layers too . . . two lycra, two lining, two powermesh, plus at the bottom of the shelf two elastic!  >:)

Leaving it free will eliminate a hissy fit on the overlocker. Or from me . . .

Ali.
Be true to yourself