The Sewing Place

problems with 15k

rowe1311

Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #15 on: November 26, 2017, 12:27:58 PM »
It is a 15-30 and produced in 1920 so unfortunately doesn't have the number dial, and more annoyingly the reverse stitch (I realise how dependent I am on it).  I am sure a 15-91 would b more practical for me as it has the drop feed too. 

Anyway, I am still waiting for my husband to help attach the treadle belt back on, and once I get the tension sorted I will try it with FME. 

I also have an electric 201 which has just recently played up.  I am not sure if it is the bobbin, thread or machine, but after I have this 15 working better that will be my next project whenever that will be! 

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Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #16 on: November 26, 2017, 13:21:46 PM »
The feed dog cover plate works well on model 15, it's not any more cumbersome to fit on than the setting screw under the base. There are various kinds, some slide and click on to the throat plate from the left, some are attched with a screw. You might find one among the accessories. I have an old 99 with out revers too, and usually it's fine. Larger bulks of fabric are more work to turn the other way, that's when I sometimes miss the revers stitch. I tend to use the 201 for that kind of work anyhow. A 15K91 is few and far between here, but the version with stitch length lever and belt driven motor turns up now and then. I am still on the look for a 201K2 (gear driven motor) :- )

rowe1311

Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #17 on: November 26, 2017, 17:39:15 PM »
I am still trying to get the tension right but no matter how much I seem to tighten the tension, it still shows through on the under side.  When I had it serviced the bobbin tension was changed to the correct tension and I have just used other bobbin cases to see if it might be the bobbin tension, but they all give the same tension with top thread showing through on under side.  I don't know if I am being too pedantic but it would be nice to get the correct tension as I have no idea where it should be and changing it seems to make no difference to the stitch quality. 

The other picture shows my spare bobbin cases.  The one on the right fits the 15, but any idea which machine the other one fits?  I think they both came from the same accessories with the 15k. 

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Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #18 on: November 26, 2017, 18:18:27 PM »
You are test sewing on two layers of fabric? With one layer of fabric it's nearly impossible to get the interlocking just so. You should get perfect tension on two layers or something is out of adjustment. Make sure the needle and thread are a good match; sharp needle might be the best.  For general test stitcing and tension adjustment use sew-all weight polyester (Gütermann is the standard) and not too small needle. If you aim for top stitch thread use a large size needle ( 110/18).

You could use the drop test og weight test for the bobin case. If you have a very accurate scale you can make a bag of rice weighing 28 grams / 1 oz. Make sure the bobbin and thread are properly in the case and spring; adjust the tension screw to a point where the rice bag releases thread with just a touch or light tug on the bobbin case.

The dirty bobbin case might work in your machine, but I guess your model takes a case with a finger. When ordering a spare bobbin case make sure it has the finger in correct place (either one o'clock or eleven o'clock).  I'm not sure which model the other case belongs too.

Tension problems and skipping stitches can happen if you have the needle in the wrong way. Singer 15 submodels differ this way (flat side either left or right); if you have the original manual with the machine double check.

If you have dirty bobbin case and presser feet, fill a jar with hot water, ad some dish washing powder, let the parts soak in there for a few minutes, rinse and wipe them thoroughly with a dry soft cloth before they have a chance to rust. All shiny steel and chromed parts usually clean up very well. Be more careful when cleaning the black lacquer.


Do you have gradual tension when pulling the thread through the needle? When the nut is tightened does the thread grip tightly, and when loosened less so? I think you need all parts of the top tension assembly for it to work, are you missing part number three from the right in the picture?
« Last Edit: November 26, 2017, 18:29:54 PM by arrow »

b15erk

Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #19 on: November 27, 2017, 09:53:51 AM »
I have a 15k at home Rowe.  If I can, I'll get some pics of the bobbin.  I have not had any problems with mine.

I'll have a read of this thread to see if there is anything else I may be able to help with.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #20 on: November 27, 2017, 09:59:04 AM »
I've just remembered, Lizzie Lenard uses a 15k to do FMQ, and she also has a series of Youtube videos showing restoration of a few machines.

Here's the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2tiiZ51J7g

Hope it helps.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #21 on: November 27, 2017, 10:18:31 AM »
I've just found a video with quite a clear shot of the bobbin. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDOxKJjLIQ4

It's about 6 minutes in.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

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Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #22 on: November 27, 2017, 12:37:03 PM »
I found this video for the old type tensioner if you haven't already. Unfortunately he doesn't have all the parts out, the split bolt and takeup spring is already in. It shows the outer disk, next to the tension disks. You have to get the tensioner right to get a balanced stitch. If you have the very last thread guide (above the needle) on the left side you can assume it threads from left to right (needle in flat side to the right); and the other way around if this thread guide is on the right.

Cleaning matters more than you might think. I once had a 201 with a very dirty needle bar. I had already spent a lot of time cleaning and oiling this machine, had had been test sewing for a bit. When the needle moved up and down it scraped to one side of the turning part the race and hook rests on. I thought it was out of adjustment and tried to find a service manual for it. Two weeks later I take the needle clamp off, and discover the groove for the needle is packed with grime and dust; after I scraped it out with a tooth pick the needle went right into place as it should, and suddenly there were luxurious clearing for the neadle. Tensioners will misbehave if they are sticky too.

Some models are very sensitive to which way the bobbin is placed in the bobbin case, a 15 is usually not, but there is a righ tand a wrong way from which it is wound. On models like 99 and 66 you have to get it right or the machine will misbehave.
« Last Edit: November 27, 2017, 12:41:08 PM by arrow »

rowe1311

Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #23 on: November 27, 2017, 19:35:21 PM »
Thanks for the videos, I haven't had a chance to look through them yet, but will try to tonight.  I have used the machine a bit today, and when I have white and white the tension seems to be much better.  Before, they were two different brands of thread.  One coats moon and another a cheap lidl thread I think.  I am wondering if that might have been the problem.  I still don't see a huge difference when I change the tension dial though. 

I have e-mailed Helen Howes for a new tension release plate and sent her some pictures of what the machine looks like, so hopefully she might have some more advice too. 

Arrow - As for the class 66 bobbins.  Perhaps that is why some bobbins misbehave because I am putting them in the wrong way.  That is my next machine to investigate. 

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Re: problems with 15k
« Reply #24 on: November 27, 2017, 21:27:01 PM »
I have used bargain priced thread too, lately it has been a type of two pack polyester from a local store that sells just about any nicknack for house and hobbies. It usually behave very well, the only downside to the slighly more fuzzy polyester thread is more dust and lint in the bobbin-feed dog area. The worst of case is when it gathers behind the faceplate, I guess it enters with the take up lever? Gütermann is smoother and with out the minimal fuzz some threads have, hardly any dust at all, even after hours of sewing.

My point is, I don't think the stitch problem is caused by the thread, but when you test sew for adjusting tension I would go for the same thread in the bobbin as on top. The aim is for a good general bobbin adjustment and later on you can get by with simply adjusting the nut on the top tensioner. It usually works well with various threads in the medium weight range, but many keep an extra bobbin case adjusten for a particular top stitch weight thread if they use often switch between different threads. Generally you should be able to easily adjust for different thread in the bobbin than on top with out much problem.

I don't think the behive spring will behave as it should with out the smaller disk text to the tension disks. That's probably why you can't get it to stitch properly. That's what gives it the even tension. The take up spring helps too, but evens out the pulling on the tread more than any thing else.  A 15 should behave very well in this regard. 
« Last Edit: November 27, 2017, 21:34:59 PM by arrow »