The Sewing Place

How to make trousers that fit?

sewingj

How to make trousers that fit?
« on: December 02, 2017, 09:18:57 AM »
My aim for the Christmas break is to make some trousers that fit.  My main fitting issue is that my tummy is big in relation to my waist (pot belly/mummy tummy!)- and bought trousers that are comfortable on my tummy usually gape at the waist band and don`t stay up properly.
In the past I have tried making some using "The Perfect Fit" book but they weren`t very successful.     I`ve now got McCalls 6361Palmer/Pletsch ("Fashion that fits") pattern but it doesn`t cover my problem.  I have thought about buying their "Pants for Real People" book but it isn`t cheap - I think it`s out of print.  Also, they use tissue fitting which isn`t easy when you are fitting on your own.

Any ideas please?  I`m aiming for something fairly tailored rather than pull-on/loose

Maximum

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2017, 09:38:25 AM »
I don't envy you the task, especially if you are trying to fit yourself without help. Do you have a pair of RTW that could be used as a starter? It will be a gradual fitting process with each one an improvement on the previous.
I would avoid using unwashed calico as it is stiff and will not drape the same as standard material. I went on a 3 day course in trouser fit and the calico pair seemed fine but the wool mix material was much softer and the actual trousers were very baggy and quite a disappointment. I got a better result starting from old RTW and adding extra to the rise at the back and takng it in stages from there. Lots of machine tacking and undoing but doable in stages. I would suggest you have something else to sew in between bouts of trouser fit.

dolcevita

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2017, 11:01:18 AM »
If you want to spend a bit of time and money, I can recommend Suzie Furrer's craftsy class on trouser fitting.  Her methods are very precise and well taught and they work very effectively.  Both I and a friend who have rather tricky pear shapes (for trouser fitting) have successfully used the class/method.

Holly Berry

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2017, 12:11:21 PM »
Claire Shaefer’s pattern Vogue 7881 is a good pattern for tailored trousers and her explanation of  how to make them couture is excellent. They are quite a wide leg, but this balances out the waist hip area if like me you don’t have a svelte figure  0_0  0_0 Use the size which fits around your widest part, so if you have a larger tummy area than hip, use the hip size for your widest part. You will probably need deeper back darts. Make sure your centre back is straight first and that your side seams are parallel, then take up the darts.

My tip would be to trace the pattern off if tissue fitting twice, so you’re not fitting just one side or an old sheet. I rarely make a toile, but trousers are the exception. Fit the back first. As we get older we tend not to be as erect, so will need to raise the waist band at the back. Take a strip of 1” wide elastic the circumference of your waist and stitch Velcro on the ends. Wearing the pattern, place this where you want the bottom of the waist band to be and mark with a pen, I find sharpies are the best, where the bottom of the elastic comes. It’s a good idea to extend the side and crotch seam allowance to 1” instead of 5/8” and the waist raise up 2”.

If the pattern has a fly front cut it off so you are just working with a seam, it’s easier to work without it. CF first, then side seams then darts/ease.You stick the extension back on after altering the centre seam, which will probably have a deeper curve, so the fly front extension will need to altered. Don’t try and slim down the legs too much between the hips and the knees. Moulding the trousers around your tummy will only emphasise it. It’s better to skim over and taper the trousers from mid thigh. Too much tapering will look like an inverted triangle, so you need to balance the slimness of the leg to your waist/hip area. This may result in the legs being wider than you want, but the trousers will look much better.  Also if there are hip pockets, don’t cut them out for thetoile, cut the pattern so the front is complete, again it’s easier to fit than having to work with the gape the pocket produces. Once I’ve got the CF true, I then put a cheap zip in, to make it easier to keep taking the toile on and off.

It’s do-able on your own, but much easier with a buddy. Otherwise it’s just fitting a little at a time. My other tip is to baste the seams together, but with the seams on the outside, it’s much easier to repin. When the fit is correct, mark with a sharpie where the pins are and it should bleed through the fabric, resew this time with right sides together. I use a green sharpie to mark the final fitting lines so I know which are the right ones. My toiles can end up looking quite messy.


Procrastination get behind me

sewingj

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2017, 14:14:51 PM »
Thanks everyone - especially Holly Berry for taking the time to go into so much detail - I will be printing that off.

I think the Vogue pattern is a bit too wide for me as I have skinny legs but I`ve now found another Palmer/Pletsch Mccalls 6901 which looks like a good starting point.  I`d be really interested in your opinion.
Thanks also for the tips about using Sharpies - simple but I hadn`t thought of it!  Also -what is the easiest way of tracing  the pattern onto the old sheet?

Many thanks

Holly Berry

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2017, 14:45:28 PM »
 I always trace my patterns onto other paper by placing the original uncut on top and draw around the size I want. Sharpies bleed through to the paper underneath. I don't see why it wouldn't work on a sheet. I always trace because I make so many alterations the original would end up useless.

Post photos as you go, because wrinkles are an indication of where you need to alter  :)
Procrastination get behind me

Ploshkin

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2017, 16:10:24 PM »
Sewingj, I don't know if any of this is of use to you. It's a jeans fitting guide but does have an adjustment for the tummy area.
Life's too short for ironing.

Holly Berry

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2017, 16:31:51 PM »
Forgot to add, photos are also a good way for you to see fitting issues, especially if fitting on your own. Just get someone else to take them so you're not twisting.

Thanks for the link Ploshkin, you can never have too much info.
Procrastination get behind me

sewingj

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2017, 16:35:46 PM »
Thanks again Holly- and to you Ploshkin.  I can see this is going to be my Winter project!

Sewbee

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2017, 14:25:43 PM »
My aim for the Christmas break is to make some trousers that fit.  My main fitting issue is that my tummy is big in relation to my waist (pot belly/mummy tummy!)- and bought trousers that are comfortable on my tummy usually gape at the waist band and don`t stay up properly.
In the past I have tried making some using "The Perfect Fit" book but they weren`t very successful.     I`ve now got McCalls 6361Palmer/Pletsch ("Fashion that fits") pattern but it doesn`t cover my problem.  I have thought about buying their "Pants for Real People" book but it isn`t cheap - I think it`s out of print.  Also, they use tissue fitting which isn`t easy when you are fitting on your own.

Any ideas please?  I`m aiming for something fairly tailored rather than pull-on/loose

If you go to www.abebooks.co.uk you can probably find a good used copy. It's a great book. I will be using it myself because I have set for myself the same goal you have - pants that fit!

I have both the StyleArc Barb and Margaret patterns but I think I'm going to try the Barb pattern first. I haven't sewn in years so this will be fun!

Rita

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2018, 18:55:45 PM »
Hi, I'd love to hear how you got on with the trouser challenge? I'm on my second attempt with the Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern (2860), using a woven cotton with 3% elastane in the hope that a bit more give in the fabric will help. I realised after making the first pair in a woven fabric that the RTW trousers I find most comfortable (though they're never quite right!) have a small amount of stretch. The Pants for Real People book has been really helpful for learning exactly how to get rid of the bagginess where I don't want it and understanding where I do want a bit more room (cyclist's thighs!) although I haven't followed their method exactly. I was lucky a few weeks ago when I found a really cheap copy on Oxfam online - worth a look.
Hope yours have worked out well.
Rita

sewingj

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #11 on: January 02, 2018, 07:56:53 AM »
Hi Rita - I`m afraid I haven`t actually started yet!  I have sent for Mccalls 6901 which is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern - will let you know how I got on.
As I mentioned in another thread - I had completely forgotten I already had "Pants for Real People" and ended up buying another one - so now I`ve got 2!  (I`ve just put one of them on Ebay if anyone is interested)

Rita

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #12 on: January 02, 2018, 08:22:23 AM »
Good luck! I've got two days to have another go at mine as the rest of the gang are back at work today and I'm not back until Thursday. Just plucking up the courage to get everything out again and work out where I'd got to...
Rita

jen

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #13 on: January 02, 2018, 09:03:09 AM »
FWIW what I do to increase tummy room in trousers is first check that the side seam in the space from hipline to waist is lining up where it should be, so I know the back is ok for width. Release all front darts and straighten any front side seam shaping. Then if this hasn't solved the problem I do something similar to an FBA on the front trouser pattern, drawing a line from the waist to high hip level at the position where the front dart was, and another from the CF to this line, slash along them and move the piece up and out  to get more room. This can be done on the toile by cutting into the fabric and inserting a scrap. Usually when there's a bulge in the body you need more width and also more height to cover it. Sometimes the front piece above the hipline can get to look a little weird, but if it fits right the job is done.

Sewbee

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #14 on: January 02, 2018, 19:45:05 PM »
I went shopping today and I stopped to look at the sewing magazines. I didn't buy but almost did. One of them has a free Palmer and Pletsch pants pattern. I think it's Love Sewing but to be honest I can't really remember.

ETA: It is indeed Love Sewing and the latest one, issue 48. It has McCalls 7415 with it.

https://www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/downloads/item/love-sewing-issue-48/
« Last Edit: January 02, 2018, 19:58:18 PM by Sewbee »